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Haltech boost controler need help

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Old 09-08-2009, 09:10 PM
  #21  
rcdash
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Well you have to have it working in open loop to dyno tune it so might as well (closed loop goes wacky on the dyno). I switch back and forth. I can tell you that it takes some experimentation to tune in closed loop. I would start with 10 proportional, 0 integral, 0 derivative, and work up from there. But you need to get open loop working first. While the system is live in open loop you should be able to type in 0 and 100 and the solenoid should click if you've got it wired correctly. You can test the output leads with a multimeter gauge also I suppose and it should go from no volts to 12 volts as one of the leads will be constant 12 and the other will cycle on/off to ground.

EDIT: I also have 2 independent boost gauges (innovate aux box and the Haltech) - they read within 0.3 psi of one another. So not exact, but close. (just fyi)

Last edited by rcdash; 09-08-2009 at 09:14 PM.
Old 09-09-2009, 06:30 AM
  #22  
Dynosty
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I received the map, modified it, and tested it here loaded into an ecu with boost solenoid hooked up. All works well now, you have mail
Old 09-09-2009, 06:34 AM
  #23  
BoostedProbe
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
I received the map, modified it, and tested it here loaded into an ecu with boost solenoid hooked up. All works well now, you have mail
Got it Hal, thanks a bunch. I will try it out at lunch today.
Old 09-09-2009, 08:14 AM
  #24  
BoostedProbe
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Well, I couldn't wait till lunch so I just went out to try the new edited map.

IT WORKS! I don't know what Hal did but as soon as I entered 50% duty cycle under
0 RPM I heard the valve firing right away.

So, thanks again HAL. Can't beat a 12 hour turnaround time on a map.
Old 09-09-2009, 08:27 AM
  #25  
CRIDDA
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Glad you got this figured out. Now turn up the boost and lets see what that bad boy will do.


Hal- I must say, great support and customer service. Its people like you who make this community what it is

-Chris
Old 09-09-2009, 08:32 AM
  #26  
BoostedProbe
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Originally Posted by CRIDDA
Glad you got this figured out. Now turn up the boost and lets see what that bad boy will do.
Oh I will, hopefully the injectors can handle it.


Originally Posted by CRIDDA
Hal- I must say, great support and customer service. Its people like you who make this community what it is

-Chris
I could not agree more, the haltech is worth every penny. The support from Hal is priceless though, and that is why I always recomend Haltech.
Old 09-09-2009, 08:59 AM
  #27  
str8dum1
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hopefully he will post what he did....

Originally Posted by BoostedProbe
Well, I couldn't wait till lunch so I just went out to try the new edited map.

IT WORKS! I don't know what Hal did but as soon as I entered 50% duty cycle under
0 RPM I heard the valve firing right away.

So, thanks again HAL. Can't beat a 12 hour turnaround time on a map.
Old 09-09-2009, 09:00 AM
  #28  
Dynosty
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Glad to hear it is working Let us know the results of tuning, and if you need anything else please let me know.
Old 09-09-2009, 11:06 AM
  #29  
BoostedProbe
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Just had lunch so went out to try it. Works great, I am playing with it trying to find the sweet spot. It seems like 15-20% duty cycle will do the trick.

It boosted to about 6.5-7psi, and holly crap what a difference a couple of psi makes. I will try to get it retuned ASAP and redyno for some of the guys that still check my build thread. At 8-9psi the turbo should be much closer to it's max efficiency range, so the numbers should be good.
Old 09-14-2009, 12:06 AM
  #30  
accordfreak
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where'd you get the mac solenoid?

i've been trying to locate one since haltech puts a sticker on the mac solenoid and marks it up 50 bucks.
Old 09-14-2009, 05:26 AM
  #31  
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I got my at a local performance shop. I see there is some on Ebay, just search "haltech boost".
Old 09-20-2009, 07:08 AM
  #32  
binder
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this makes me more and more eager to get my haltech...yay
Old 09-22-2009, 06:14 PM
  #33  
Dave 90TT
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I'm very happy with my Haltech, and whoever said it earlier was correct, some of the earlier firmwares had problems with boost, but Hal fixed it right up
Old 09-29-2009, 02:26 PM
  #34  
SH Luciano
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not too long ago i got my haltech installed and we're setting it up right now. i've been looking for 2 parameters but can't find them anywhere - and i thought haltech could show you both.

i'd like to monitor the duty cycle on the injectors and make adjustments to my idle rpm.

can anybody point me in the right direction to where those can be found?

thanks
Old 09-29-2009, 02:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
not too long ago i got my haltech installed and we're setting it up right now. i've been looking for 2 parameters but can't find them anywhere - and i thought haltech could show you both.

i'd like to monitor the duty cycle on the injectors and make adjustments to my idle rpm.

can anybody point me in the right direction to where those can be found?

thanks
Injector Duty Cycle can be monitored by displaying the "Injector 1 Duty Cycle" channel. 2,3,4,5,6 should read the same unless you have trimmed specific cylinders.

Idle RPM can not be adjusted, as this is a function of the stock computer's drive-by-wire system. To adjust idle you will need to adjust the factory computer. This can be modified along with a number of other parameters (such as speed limiter) through an ecu reflash. For 2003 and some 2004's, you can use a Cipher cable to adjust your RPM up to +250 from stock.
Old 09-29-2009, 02:45 PM
  #36  
SH Luciano
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Injector Duty Cycle can be monitored by displaying the "Injector 1 Duty Cycle" channel. 2,3,4,5,6 should read the same unless you have trimmed specific cylinders.

Idle RPM can not be adjusted, as this is a function of the stock computer's drive-by-wire system. To adjust idle you will need to adjust the factory computer. This can be modified along with a number of other parameters (such as speed limiter) through an ecu reflash. For 2003 and some 2004's, you can use a Cipher cable to adjust your RPM up to +250 from stock.
awesome, thank you very much for the info Hal!
Old 09-29-2009, 03:56 PM
  #37  
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Now that I have the JWT flywheel I notice my cars idle falls really low when the cooling fans kick in, and sometimes it just dies idling.

So, I also need to bump the idle.
Old 09-29-2009, 04:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BoostedProbe
Now that I have the JWT flywheel I notice my cars idle falls really low when the cooling fans kick in, and sometimes it just dies idling.

So, I also need to bump the idle.
Send it in - we offer same day turnaround. Alternatively, you do not have to send your ecu in if you purchase a reflash and cipher cable together.
Old 09-29-2009, 04:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Send it in - we offer same day turnaround. Alternatively, you do not have to send your ecu in if you purchase a reflash and cipher cable together.
I will definetly send it your way, the customer support from you has been awesome, I would feel guilty sending it somewhere else.

At the same time you can get rid of the codes causing the CEL, no MAF will do that I guess.
Old 09-29-2009, 06:06 PM
  #40  
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^ just remember, just becuase the codes are gone, do mean mean your computer is in a 'ready' status. You WILL fail any OBDII inspection (if you even have one).

Just a FYI


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