hey guys.. i'm about to go FI and i've been doing alot of research into the subject... i have been reading the forums between here and g35driver and i'm wondering if what i've come up with sounds about good or if i should need any mods to what i have... my stock block has just under 35,000 on it right now.. my goal is over 400whp..about 410-430 would be perfect. i want it to be fast but reasonable as i'm going to use it as a daily driver as well..i have a budget of around 15k.. i want the car to be reliable long term so i'm leaning towards a short block but wondered if you guys had any opinons on whether its overkill for my whp goals and driving habits or its something that will be benefical and save me in the long run... heres what i've come up with..

-JWT twins 700bb
-built shortblock(if needed)
-CJM complete fuel return
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-deatschwerks 600cc injectors
-haltech ecu
-aps 2.5" exhaust
-fast intentions cat
(Need to keep it street legal... heard diff opinons about whether needed but. driving in MD for now...possiblely FL or CA later... in military)
i really wanna make sure it stays cool and i dont run into major malfunctions so i looked alot into cooling..
-koyo racing radiator
-samco radiator hose
-stillen oil cooler
-thermostat

i will need to add wheels tires suspension and upgrade the clutch later but this was my inital build list... thakns for your input!

 

To be more reliable, the short block sure would help. Of course going that route the labor from a shop will go up ten fold, and you will likely spend all of or slightly more than your budget.

I would also upgrade the clutch when the engine is out, much easier and cost effective.

 

IMO you may be able to save on the Koyo and oil cooler for now and do the clutch while the motor is out. 400whp is right around the limit of the DE block, or do you have a HR? If you dial back the boost a touch the car will still be loads of fun and you should be able to put off the built shortblock for a good bit if your motor is sound.

Trust me, once you get started the little things start adding up fast:

Pathfinder cooling mod
Nismo t-stat
Upgraded oil pump
Gasket kit
head gaskets
L19 headstuds

If 400whp is your real goal I would try hard and stay on the stock block as long as possible. Usually, when they give out they show signs of being hurt fisrst, so you can rebuild before you ventilate the block.

 

hey bro im also in the military stationed in oklahoma, im originally from MD haha but anyways in OK there is harley anything illegal that you can put on your car except stuff like flamethrower exhaust and stupid stuff like that..hell you dont even have to get your vehicle inspected down here..from growing up in MD, it is very lenient on having aftermarket parts most of the time. Your right though about cali and fl they are very strict. I'm sure if you keep your car registered in MD you shouldnt have any problem with mods..(for us military folk) ~95% of us get out of stupid traffic tickets~ lol

 

I would definately go with the oil cooler, but you don't need to be running the fuel return if your goal is 400ish, a walboro 255 will suffice for that. You can also deal without the koyo as mentioned before. In the end a good tune will be key to longevity no matter what your mods are. All the right mods are worthless without the right tune.

 

Is MD your home of record? Just keep it registered there and you'll be fine. As long as you've got your military ID and whatnot. Worked for me for 5 yrs Not sure about illegal mod tickets but you won't have to worry about emissions.

And with that list of stuff you can make a lot more than 400 whp...
Check out my thread if you want to see what I've got and we made right at 403 whp.

Definitely do the clutch while its apart tho. Stock clutch won't last long with any kind of boost

 

just lower your car enough and you can get out of emissions here then you can do just about anything

 

I heard that isn't true anymore ...............

 

you can push that 410-430 on a Dynojet with cats, probably not on a DynoDynamics.

 

Build sheet looks pretty good so far. Who's doing your build, if you don't mind my asking?

+1 on doing the clutch while the motor is out, btw.

 

Yeah, definately change out the clutch. Its not going to last long. As mentioned above sound DE blocks are pretty reliable for 400 rwhp with a good tune. If you want more reliability and the option a higher boost maps then a built block and fuel return would be recomended. I agree, you can run it on the stock block and no fuel return for 400 rwhp but as with anything be prepared for a worst case senario.

 

ok... so that has helped alot so far...
i'll do the clutch at the same time as that seems a consensus..
Right now i have RI listed as my home... i'm at the Naval Academy and i'll be going out to my first command when i graduate which could be flight school in Pensacola or elsewhere to a ship if i dont get commissioned a pilot... pensacola is right next to bama and i cant imagine they are very strict on emmissions so i might just have to get an apartment there if thats where i go. haha Soo basically i would have to get the car inspected back here? or whereever i am registered as living?? i know a friend who does inspects back in RI so there wouldnt be an issue with that.. heard that test pipes release alot of hydro carbons and can be not pleasing to smell... dont want to be smelling jp5 all day on the runway and then have fumes on the ride home ...
i've been doing some research and i'm not sure about a BOV...from what i heard that is not legal for emmissions inspections.. is there a great benefit to having one??
looking alot at Forged Performance for the build... heard excellant things about sharif and his shop and its only bout a 7hr drive from here... not looking to get it done till next summer once i get everything figured out...just trying to get some real good solid ideas before send any requests over sharif's way...
still unsure about the shortblock... wanna try and keep the budget but i dont want a blown motor... you get what you pay for so if i have to spend the extra i will to keep the car more reliable...would it be cheaper to get shortblock rebuilt while doing turbo install?
from responses looks like i'll drop the CJM fuel system and koyo radiator and hose for now..

 

Still worked last year around May!!! Is it really not true anymore?!

 

First off GO ARMY!!! Secondly, congrats at the Naval Academy. I went to West Point '07. I was running into the same issues you were with regards to building my car with regards to budget and goals. I would say save up more to do the short block, that was my main concern. My G is getting done at Forged and will be done when I get back from Iraq in January. Sharif will help you out alot...Beat Navy!

 

^^^

something about your post I don't like....

 

Your budget is too small if you do a full build. If you just do the TT conversion on your stock motor, you should have enough.

other thoughts:
no way would I consider running cats with a TT setup. You are worried about "street legal" but have no issue removing OEM cats or adding turbos and a fuel system?

Cass is right, the little things add up. I would highly recommend the ATS twin or triple disc clutch..... which cost over 2 grand alone. You will really need to put pen to paper and run the numbers if you are stuck to your 15 grand budget

Don't buy ANYTHING until you spend time discussing your build with your shop. Only after you have their recommendations, and a laid out plan, do you start purchasing things. If Sharif is your man for the job, buy your parts through him. don't show up at his shop with a bunch of parts and ask them to install

 

All I can say is, when you go FI, there's no such thing as "budget." You can't say 15k is my "budget" because you'll end up spending at least 20. If you want to go FI the right way, get a built short block from the start and save up more money. If you want to be realistic, I would say at least 25-30k, double your current budget. You gotta keep in mind that "small little things" you have to buy and it's a list 3x longer than the one you just listed.

 

It lets out the built up pressure when you let off the throttle so it doesn't rush back down on the turbo and possibly spin it in reverse and destroy the bearings

 

well yeah i kinda figured the budget would get blown but i wanted to set down somewhat of a ground number but i can see now that it'll be alot more haha.
yeah i planned on getting all the parts and whatnot from forged and having lengthy disscussions with them.. i just wanted to have a good idea of what others thought i might need before i went to them with the request.

 

id keep it stock block and shoot for around 400whp, little more is fine with a good tune...i say 420whp is ok with a solid tune on a DE, im not sure what u have....do the clutch and flywheel for sure!!!