G35 Sedan at Cobb with blown motor need advise
#21
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Also has anyone had any problems with Import parts pro's short block? I have done a lot of research and done a few engine builds but nothing as complex as a VQ motor. Should I try to do it myself or let them do it? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kirk
If I were you....after doing this new build....I would take it to a well known VQ builder. There are 2 in TX that I know well...one in Conroe TX and the other in Austin TX.
If you dont mind shipping your car....there are more.
Good luck.
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Import parts pro's short block
I can vouch for them I am running one of there block in gmy car and have had no issues> Make sure you go with the L19 Arp bolt set!!!
I can vouch for them I am running one of there block in gmy car and have had no issues> Make sure you go with the L19 Arp bolt set!!!
So a little back story I bought this Vortech V3 from Chef on here and installed the s/c with return fuel line DW 600 injectors among other things like bigger rad, oil cooler, tranny cooler, water/meth injection. So I take it to Cobb tuning to get a custom dyno tune. Well they call me and tell me the car was on the dyno and something inside the engine let go. Chris at Cobb Plano said I was making about 340 on a mustang dyno at about 13psi when something went boom. So I haven't heard anything back from them but I am guessing it's a bottom end issue. So I was thinking about buying a short block from Import parts pro and having Cobb bolt my heads on to the new short block. So does anyone think Cobb could have done something wrong? Also has anyone had any problems with Import parts pro's short block? I have done a lot of research and done a few engine builds but nothing as complex as a VQ motor. Should I try to do it myself or let them do it? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kirk
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ahhhh the Cobb Ap is just wonderful on boosted engines. If I remember right, it has no knock protection past the stock ecu parameters. I looked into it a while ago as a cheap alternative, then realized it would cost more than i saved when the motor blew out.
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To answer a few more questions I am/was running one step colder iredium(sp) plugs. The exhaust has stock manifolds hfc, meagan Y pipe and Meagan cat back exhasust. I am going to go tomorrow and get the data log files and dyno print outs and I am going to probably tow GiGi(my G) home. So I know what I am talking bout how much timing should they have pulled to start with? If it was detonation shouldn't Calvin the tuner been able to counter act that by pulling timing out? If so why wouldn't he have done that how can they tune GTR's and not know anything about G's. Thanks again everyone for all the help . Kirk
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With the AP, I don't really think it is as simple as pulling X amount of timing. They are modifying the existing tables to some degree. From what I understand there are a few tables that can be modified. It would probably be more valuable to find out what the initial (stock) values were, and what they were at when your engine blew. I could be wrong on the above, but it is my understanding based on the limited research I did (I stopped when I couldn't get the tuning SW to work with my setup....)
At lower RPM/boost levels, very little will need to be pulled. Since the Vortech builds boost relative to RPM's, the reduction in timing should climb as RPM's increase. There are several other factors they would need to consider. The leaner the A/F, the more timing they need to pull. Where 12.5-12.8 is a good AFR on a N/A car, it should be in the 11-12 range with boost. Every car is different, but I would expect them to pull 10+ degrees on the top end, and probably more than that with the 2.87 pulley. If they were tuning your car with a 12.5-12.8 AFR like they do on most Nissans, that is too lean period, and they would need to pull a lot of timing to keep it from turning into a gernade....
At lower RPM/boost levels, very little will need to be pulled. Since the Vortech builds boost relative to RPM's, the reduction in timing should climb as RPM's increase. There are several other factors they would need to consider. The leaner the A/F, the more timing they need to pull. Where 12.5-12.8 is a good AFR on a N/A car, it should be in the 11-12 range with boost. Every car is different, but I would expect them to pull 10+ degrees on the top end, and probably more than that with the 2.87 pulley. If they were tuning your car with a 12.5-12.8 AFR like they do on most Nissans, that is too lean period, and they would need to pull a lot of timing to keep it from turning into a gernade....
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Chris Macallero really taught me a lot. i went into this not knowing anything and by the time he was done, i knew a lot. and he did follow up calls too.. dont worry if you dont know much or are scared. he's good. and he'll tell you before he does anything to push any kinda limit.
I did go to him with a utec. he's one of the best and only good tuners with the UTEC around.
I did go to him with a utec. he's one of the best and only good tuners with the UTEC around.
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Jran Calvin was aiming for 11 to 11.5 on the a/f ratio. I didn't talk to him about timing I thought they knew what they were doing. I don't know what I should say to them tomorrow how could I not be mad I am 99% my block was strong. I guess I will just ask for all the info they have and try learn as much as I can. I have already learn a lot from you guys thanks alot everyone. Kirk
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Unfortunately this is what you gamble when you go FI with a stock block, no guarantees, how do you know your rods were strong enough to take it, many people have blown engines at tuning or first drive out.
Unless they were on the 50th dyno run and all of them with lean af and high timing I highly doubt the tune was an issue, if the rods are strong enough they can take a even a few runs on stock timing, you may just have had one of the stock blocks with weak rods, now you have to live with your decisions and pay up. It sucks but if you read enough threads you will see the recurring message to have enough money set aside to build a motor when going FI on a stock block.
Unless they were on the 50th dyno run and all of them with lean af and high timing I highly doubt the tune was an issue, if the rods are strong enough they can take a even a few runs on stock timing, you may just have had one of the stock blocks with weak rods, now you have to live with your decisions and pay up. It sucks but if you read enough threads you will see the recurring message to have enough money set aside to build a motor when going FI on a stock block.
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Jran Calvin was aiming for 11 to 11.5 on the a/f ratio. I didn't talk to him about timing I thought they knew what they were doing. I don't know what I should say to them tomorrow how could I not be mad I am 99% my block was strong. I guess I will just ask for all the info they have and try learn as much as I can. I have already learn a lot from you guys thanks alot everyone. Kirk
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satellite facility
COBB Tuning is pleased to announce the planned opening of our newest satellite facility in Plano, Texas. This state-of-the-art, 5000 sq. ft. facility features a Mustang all-wheel drive dynamometer and a Hunter WinAlign optical alignment system designed specifically for enthusiast vehicles with lowered suspensions. This facility will offer installation services for the full COBB Tuning product line as well as custom tuning services for the AccessPORT, including optimization of Stage 1 and Stage 2 mapped vehicles.
The Plano facility is staffed by Chris Fleming, Neil Bywater, Calvin Dotson, and Brad Campbell – a team closely involved in developing and supporting the COBB Tuning brand and products since its creation. The team will bring years of racing and tuning experience, as well as first-hand experience in dealership-level management, sales, parts, and services. Thanks to their history of outstanding customer satisfaction, the team will carry on the COBB Tuning tradition of outstanding customer service. As a company, we are very excited about the newest addition to the COBB family, and look forward to harnessing the team's expertise to provide the best possible service to Subaru, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Infiniti and Nissan owners looking to unlock the full potential of their vehicles.
Estimated date of official opening is October 10th, 2008. We have also created a special section of our own forum to allow for comments/questions directly to our team in Plano.
The Plano facility is staffed by Chris Fleming, Neil Bywater, Calvin Dotson, and Brad Campbell – a team closely involved in developing and supporting the COBB Tuning brand and products since its creation. The team will bring years of racing and tuning experience, as well as first-hand experience in dealership-level management, sales, parts, and services. Thanks to their history of outstanding customer satisfaction, the team will carry on the COBB Tuning tradition of outstanding customer service. As a company, we are very excited about the newest addition to the COBB family, and look forward to harnessing the team's expertise to provide the best possible service to Subaru, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Infiniti and Nissan owners looking to unlock the full potential of their vehicles.
Estimated date of official opening is October 10th, 2008. We have also created a special section of our own forum to allow for comments/questions directly to our team in Plano.
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Your right I don't need to jump to conclusions I have tried very hard not to. I knew about the risks but I tried to minimize them as much as possible. The problem is I jumped in to the FI ring way sooner then I had planned by buying this used vortech s/c. I don't know how many dyno runs they made but they did several before the motor let go. Kirk
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Kyle is a great guy...very professional...easy to do business with.
If I were you....after doing this new build....I would take it to a well known VQ builder. There are 2 in TX that I know well...one in HOUSTON TX and the other in Austin TX.
If you dont mind shipping your car....there are more.
Good luck.
If I were you....after doing this new build....I would take it to a well known VQ builder. There are 2 in TX that I know well...one in HOUSTON TX and the other in Austin TX.
If you dont mind shipping your car....there are more.
Good luck.