Custom HKS G35 Turbo Project is Done!
Thanks for all of the compliments. I just realized that I don't even have pics of the finished engine bay! I will see if I can get some tonight.
I don't have numbers because it has never been on the dyno. That won't happen until spring - we got a foot of snow here on Friday and there is a blizzard warning for Wednesday.
I did the tuning myself. And by that I mean I tuned the fuel in boost using the wideband. I am running the timing numbers from the TurboXS base map for the APS kit. I haven't recorded any knock with these timing numbers yet, but then again that could be a combination of only 6-6.5 psi of boost, 93 octane, and the fact that most of my tuning has been done in ~50 to 60 degree weather. My knock sensitivity settings are copied from the APS base map as well. A/F is around 13.5 at the boost transition, and gradually goes down into the high 11's at 6 psi of boost. The car is running great so far - wider tires will be needed before I can really think about making any more power.
I don't have numbers because it has never been on the dyno. That won't happen until spring - we got a foot of snow here on Friday and there is a blizzard warning for Wednesday.
I did the tuning myself. And by that I mean I tuned the fuel in boost using the wideband. I am running the timing numbers from the TurboXS base map for the APS kit. I haven't recorded any knock with these timing numbers yet, but then again that could be a combination of only 6-6.5 psi of boost, 93 octane, and the fact that most of my tuning has been done in ~50 to 60 degree weather. My knock sensitivity settings are copied from the APS base map as well. A/F is around 13.5 at the boost transition, and gradually goes down into the high 11's at 6 psi of boost. The car is running great so far - wider tires will be needed before I can really think about making any more power.
Looks great but the only thing I would change is the way you tap off the single factory nipple in the manifold. I would drill and tap seperate nipples so each thing has it's own hard line right to the manifold and will decrese the risk of innacuracies or failure.
If I had to do it over again I would seriously consider pulling the engine. Then again, a lot of the fab work has to be done with the engine in the car, to make sure parts will clear other components (like the oil lines, making sure they clear the steering rack, etc) so it's hard to say exactly how much it time it would have saved.
I am doing my own tuning, via UTEC.
I completely agree. I was looking for a better solution. I was thinking a distribution block but I like your idea better. I never even thought about drilling and tapping the plenum for more ports! I will be doing that this winter for sure. Do you have a pic of a good example?
If I had to do it over again I would seriously consider pulling the engine. Then again, a lot of the fab work has to be done with the engine in the car, to make sure parts will clear other components (like the oil lines, making sure they clear the steering rack, etc) so it's hard to say exactly how much it time it would have saved.
I am doing my own tuning, via UTEC.
If I had to do it over again I would seriously consider pulling the engine. Then again, a lot of the fab work has to be done with the engine in the car, to make sure parts will clear other components (like the oil lines, making sure they clear the steering rack, etc) so it's hard to say exactly how much it time it would have saved.
I am doing my own tuning, via UTEC.
Thanks for the pic. That would certainly be better than what I am currently doing.
Anybody ever drilled and tapped their plenum spacer for extra vacuum ports? You couldn't do it with a 5/16" or 3/8" spacer (at least not with a 1/8 NPT) but it should work fine with 1/2" or 5/8". Mine is a Skunk2 so its glass filled Nylon I believe, 5/8" height. Maybe I will just do that!
Anybody ever drilled and tapped their plenum spacer for extra vacuum ports? You couldn't do it with a 5/16" or 3/8" spacer (at least not with a 1/8 NPT) but it should work fine with 1/2" or 5/8". Mine is a Skunk2 so its glass filled Nylon I believe, 5/8" height. Maybe I will just do that!
Last edited by mx594; Dec 8, 2009 at 08:48 AM.
Also one more thing is I would cover the thin white line going to your map sensor with black 1/4" wire loom for protection and to prevent kinking.
Last edited by 350Z400rwhp; Dec 8, 2009 at 02:18 PM.
