SuperCharged 350z oil leak!
Valve covers and plug seals will be replaced, timing and a fine tune will happen as soon as my hood cable gets here from Courtesy Parts. Like I said, compression showed excellent results and gave me a thumps up to really keep her as my new DD. If I need to replace valve cover gaskets because of the procharger then I guess theres no other choice is there.. It doesn't bother me at all, as long as the timing and A/F get tuned, my Z should be set for a ns DD. I just though that there was some kind of a gasket kit/ hardcore valve covers that are used with the 7-8-psi superchargers in the Z33 market that could of help my cause without upgrading the internals. hehe that was a long sentence..
ur not understanding some things....
u cannot just replace the gasket on the valve covers, the whole vavle cover needs to be replaced...This is not happening because u are procharged it is a common problem on all Z's F/I or not...
upgrading the internals? a valve cover is not internals? idk what u are talking about there
as far as tuning that is what i am trying to tell u if u have the normal plain jane procharger kit then u cannot pull timing and the tuning is slim to none that can be done and def. do not run any more boost than 7psi because of it....If u are running a different EMS then u can tune to a safe tune at whatever boost level...the procharger kits out of the box are known to be very risky as they do not pull timing and there is no way to without changing to a different and better EMS...
Last edited by tylerxfire; Jan 26, 2010 at 04:09 PM.
Here are the requested pictures of the supercharger and oil around cylinder 2:
spark plug number 2 you mean, which is directly below the oil fill and exactly where oil goes when it is spilled during filling. clean area well and check at next oil change
We ruled out the rings.
It's great you checked that but it has absolutely nothing to do with oil on the topside of the valvecover. Be at ease that oil doesn't indicate a problem with the cylinders
Upon removing the intake tube with the MAF we saw that two 1/2" wide hoses that were T with a vaccum hose that ran to the PCV were pinched and bent (no pics sorry.) The owner explained that if these vaccums were bent like they were, air pressure was been restricted thus causing a bottle neck effect. This "pressure" shoot out the oil from the oil pan and through making its way to the spark plug holes and oil getting through the seal thus the oil around cylinder #2 and such..
What do yall guys think?
The previous owner is a douchebag. Those are vent hoses. They appear very large so they would have to be pinched a lot to cut off air. Even the pressure would be forced out of other vents (on the other valvecover). Fix the pinches, but again, not the reason for oil on top of the drivers side valvecover. Also, oil won't shoot out of the oil pan up onto the outside of the engine. He's a moron and just making things up to tell you.
was the spark plug hole completely filled will oil? if not then it's probably not the gasket around the spark plug from the valve cover. The oil is on top of your valve cover which means it has to have come from ABOVE that area. Your valvecover gasket would be below where that oil is. It would drip down and not up. Always remember that when looking for an oil leak it would start from the highest point and go down.
spark plug number 2 you mean, which is directly below the oil fill and exactly where oil goes when it is spilled during filling. clean area well and check at next oil change
We ruled out the rings.
It's great you checked that but it has absolutely nothing to do with oil on the topside of the valvecover. Be at ease that oil doesn't indicate a problem with the cylinders
Upon removing the intake tube with the MAF we saw that two 1/2" wide hoses that were T with a vaccum hose that ran to the PCV were pinched and bent (no pics sorry.) The owner explained that if these vaccums were bent like they were, air pressure was been restricted thus causing a bottle neck effect. This "pressure" shoot out the oil from the oil pan and through making its way to the spark plug holes and oil getting through the seal thus the oil around cylinder #2 and such..
What do yall guys think?
The previous owner is a douchebag. Those are vent hoses. They appear very large so they would have to be pinched a lot to cut off air. Even the pressure would be forced out of other vents (on the other valvecover). Fix the pinches, but again, not the reason for oil on top of the drivers side valvecover. Also, oil won't shoot out of the oil pan up onto the outside of the engine. He's a moron and just making things up to tell you.
was the spark plug hole completely filled will oil? if not then it's probably not the gasket around the spark plug from the valve cover. The oil is on top of your valve cover which means it has to have come from ABOVE that area. Your valvecover gasket would be below where that oil is. It would drip down and not up. Always remember that when looking for an oil leak it would start from the highest point and go down.
I also made some notes on these pictures to show you. The picture shows no oil in the spark plug chamber therefore that seal around there couldn't be leaking.
also, the oil is ABOVE the valve cover gasket (not seen in picture) therefore oil didn't leak from the valvecover gasket then travel upwards onto the top of the valvecover. I would bet money that it came from spilling the oil and it slowly running down the fill neck. Make sure you take the fill cap off and THOROUGHLY clean the rubber around the fill area. That traps oil in there and it can leave residue on the valvecover gasket for a long time.
Also, in the front picture of the supercharger. That bolt i circled i'm almost certain should have a locking nut on it so the tensioner doesn't loosen up.
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ur not understanding some things....
u cannot just replace the gasket on the valve covers, the whole vavle cover needs to be replaced...This is not happening because u are procharged it is a common problem on all Z's F/I or not...
upgrading the internals? a valve cover is not internals? idk what u are talking about there
as far as tuning that is what i am trying to tell u if u have the normal plain jane procharger kit then u cannot pull timing and the tuning is slim to none that can be done and def. do not run any more boost than 7psi because of it....If u are running a different EMS then u can tune to a safe tune at whatever boost level...the procharger kits out of the box are known to be very risky as they do not pull timing and there is no way to without changing to a different and better EMS...
u cannot just replace the gasket on the valve covers, the whole vavle cover needs to be replaced...This is not happening because u are procharged it is a common problem on all Z's F/I or not...
upgrading the internals? a valve cover is not internals? idk what u are talking about there
as far as tuning that is what i am trying to tell u if u have the normal plain jane procharger kit then u cannot pull timing and the tuning is slim to none that can be done and def. do not run any more boost than 7psi because of it....If u are running a different EMS then u can tune to a safe tune at whatever boost level...the procharger kits out of the box are known to be very risky as they do not pull timing and there is no way to without changing to a different and better EMS...
When I meant internals I wasn't referring to the valve covers but the internals: upgrading internals that would be more adequate compression ratio for a 7psi FI system and therefore not having issues with blown seals and oil pushing through those seals. Now I understand that valve covers leaks are a common problem whether or not you have a FI system installed, but like binder said its not possible for oil to travel upwards and sit on top of the cover. I power washed the drivers side top valve cover and will be looking for any oil accumulation.
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I also made some notes on these pictures to show you. The picture shows no oil in the spark plug chamber therefore that seal around there couldn't be leaking.
was the spark plug hole completely filled will oil?
also, the oil is ABOVE the valve cover gasket (not seen in picture) therefore oil didn't leak from the valvecover gasket then travel upwards onto the top of the valvecover. I would bet money that it came from spilling the oil and it slowly running down the fill neck. Make sure you take the fill cap off and THOROUGHLY clean the rubber around the fill area. That traps oil in there and it can leave residue on the valvecover gasket for a long time.
Also, in the front picture of the supercharger. That bolt i circled i'm almost certain should have a locking nut on it so the tensioner doesn't loosen up.
was the spark plug hole completely filled will oil?
also, the oil is ABOVE the valve cover gasket (not seen in picture) therefore oil didn't leak from the valvecover gasket then travel upwards onto the top of the valvecover. I would bet money that it came from spilling the oil and it slowly running down the fill neck. Make sure you take the fill cap off and THOROUGHLY clean the rubber around the fill area. That traps oil in there and it can leave residue on the valvecover gasket for a long time.
Also, in the front picture of the supercharger. That bolt i circled i'm almost certain should have a locking nut on it so the tensioner doesn't loosen up.
There wasn't any oil inside the spark plug holes (2, 4, 6,) seems that you're correct and it was a simple oil spill. I took the my Z to 2 Z club-sponsor shops in Austin and San Antonio TX and both came with the same logic of oil leaking from the covers or shooting out the oil dipstick. The best thing they told me was to power wash it and see where the leak was coming from.
Someone mention if I had any pics of the blower, well it seems there's little oil inside the intake tube including the MAF:
small residue of oil in the intake tubes isn't an issue. More than likely oil from the air filter. If not then it's only a slight amount of oil from the supercharger which isn't an issue. You didn't even have a drop of it in there, it looks like residue to me.
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And after having her inspected by 2 nissan Z shops locally, today I towed the Z to UpRev in Austin, TX to have her inspected. Hopefully by tomorrow they will tell me whats good for her. I will keep yall updated with what they said and work that needs to be done, by doing some research I found that I would at need: bigger injectors, upgraded maf sensor, new fuel pump and fine tuning either with UTEC/AEM or probably OSIRIS from UpRev. Worst thing to come is that I will send her back to the dealership I got it from or will be taking legal action for their false advertisement.
I first saw this Z at an eBay online auction and though what a great looking Z this was, specially with the mileage and condition they claim the Z was in. True I made a mistake of not inspecting the Z before buying it, but 1) I had to fly a couple of thousand miles to check her out and since the dealerships feedback was an excellent 100% for more than 250 cars sold, I though I could trust them. 2) Their statements really caught my attention, this is what they wrote "this is a one owner car, carfax and autocheck certified, having only 55,000 miles, she has a PROCHARGER kit, running the 6-7 lb pully, she is also intercooled via a front mount intercooler, full upgraded NISMO exhaust, TSW chrome wheels, and an upgraded color matched rear Spoiler, this car runs and drives flawlessly, everything works as new, she is immaculate, there are no dings dents or scratches to report, this car is a very nice one owner vehicle, car has a clear title and a clear title history."
Looking at the cars they sell, most of them exotics I really though this was a car that was really taken care of. I guess you can't even trust a 100% feedback dealership...
I've been thinking of doing a small claims trial for the parts and labor but then again its my fault for buying it without inspecting it. Not sure if its worth the time/effort to do but this is where I stand at the moment. I will let yall guys know what UpRev has to say on the condition of the Z. Thanks to tylerxfire and binder for getting me into the right direction..
I first saw this Z at an eBay online auction and though what a great looking Z this was, specially with the mileage and condition they claim the Z was in. True I made a mistake of not inspecting the Z before buying it, but 1) I had to fly a couple of thousand miles to check her out and since the dealerships feedback was an excellent 100% for more than 250 cars sold, I though I could trust them. 2) Their statements really caught my attention, this is what they wrote "this is a one owner car, carfax and autocheck certified, having only 55,000 miles, she has a PROCHARGER kit, running the 6-7 lb pully, she is also intercooled via a front mount intercooler, full upgraded NISMO exhaust, TSW chrome wheels, and an upgraded color matched rear Spoiler, this car runs and drives flawlessly, everything works as new, she is immaculate, there are no dings dents or scratches to report, this car is a very nice one owner vehicle, car has a clear title and a clear title history."
Looking at the cars they sell, most of them exotics I really though this was a car that was really taken care of. I guess you can't even trust a 100% feedback dealership...
I've been thinking of doing a small claims trial for the parts and labor but then again its my fault for buying it without inspecting it. Not sure if its worth the time/effort to do but this is where I stand at the moment. I will let yall guys know what UpRev has to say on the condition of the Z. Thanks to tylerxfire and binder for getting me into the right direction..
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The Z just came from the shop and with good/bad news. The good news is that the engine performed excellent on a leakdown and compression test. It turns out that the A/F sensor was bad and was stuck reading 14.5 all the time. There wasn't anything out of the ordinary except the oil that I mention on the pictures on the intake tube.
The bad news is that the oil was coming from the supercharger and also seemed that air was leaking from the top screw/dipstick. In this case the seals on the supercharger are not in great shape and thus causing oil/air leakage. I will be contacting ProCharger and see if theres any warranty left on the C2 ProCharger. Does anyone know if they have a 100k/3yr warranty on their SCs?
Dyno Numbers were 350hp and 300tq @ 6200rpm on a real conservative tune. The guys at UpRev did not wanted to tune it at full boost (6-7psi) since I told them I will try to get the SC worked up first. Some of the oil was hitting the MAF and making the ECU get bad readings, it wasn't possible to fine tune it without some sort of a catch can.
After I get the procharger back along with a catch can and a new A/F sensor, I will get it tune again.
The bad news is that the oil was coming from the supercharger and also seemed that air was leaking from the top screw/dipstick. In this case the seals on the supercharger are not in great shape and thus causing oil/air leakage. I will be contacting ProCharger and see if theres any warranty left on the C2 ProCharger. Does anyone know if they have a 100k/3yr warranty on their SCs?
Dyno Numbers were 350hp and 300tq @ 6200rpm on a real conservative tune. The guys at UpRev did not wanted to tune it at full boost (6-7psi) since I told them I will try to get the SC worked up first. Some of the oil was hitting the MAF and making the ECU get bad readings, it wasn't possible to fine tune it without some sort of a catch can.
After I get the procharger back along with a catch can and a new A/F sensor, I will get it tune again.
Last edited by VG30TTzx; Jan 30, 2010 at 10:21 PM.
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O wow, $900 is quite a bill that's how much Majestic Turbo from Dallas asked to rebuild my old TT GT525s. Since this is a self-contained oiling SC is it safe to add oil every now and then til the SC gets rebuilt?
I will call Procharger and just make sure they can't get it rebuilt under warranty because I'm a second owner..
Anyone know if the Bosch wideband O2 sensor can be replaced on the AEM wideband AF gauge?
I will call Procharger and just make sure they can't get it rebuilt under warranty because I'm a second owner..
Anyone know if the Bosch wideband O2 sensor can be replaced on the AEM wideband AF gauge?
Last edited by 350z006; Jan 31, 2010 at 07:33 PM.
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I had the stock injectors.. GT525s were the twinturbo setup I had on my Z32..
I also needed to upgrade the MAF sensor so UpRev could tune the car with the 600cc injectors.
The oil that is hitting the MAF sensor is coming from the pcv valves and not from the supercharger, the oil color is brownish, the oil on the supercharger is green/blueish. I called ProCharger and they told me the turnaround for the SC was going to be 5-6 weeks! For now I will be driving her til spring break then I will have time to remove it and use another car til I get the SC back...
I will be installing a oil catch can and trapped all the oil there.
I also needed to upgrade the MAF sensor so UpRev could tune the car with the 600cc injectors.
The oil that is hitting the MAF sensor is coming from the pcv valves and not from the supercharger, the oil color is brownish, the oil on the supercharger is green/blueish. I called ProCharger and they told me the turnaround for the SC was going to be 5-6 weeks! For now I will be driving her til spring break then I will have time to remove it and use another car til I get the SC back...
I will be installing a oil catch can and trapped all the oil there.
if you are only running 7psi max then you prob don't need the pmas to tune. The maf doesn't matter based n injectr side but airflow. Higher hp more airflow so a bigger sensor. Low hp you should be ok on the maf. They can log the maf voltage and see if you max the stock one. If not then you save 200$.
definitely get a catch can.
definitely get a catch can.
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RevUp said that the stock MAF sensor was only good enough for 350hp and since my goals are 380-400 they recommended me to go with the HPX MAF sensor. Here are the Dyno results; the air/fuel map gets really rich almost from the beginning (1700rpm) peaking its lowest value at 10.9X. On the top graph the darker line is my HP and the light almost vanished line is the TQ.
Last edited by VG30TTzx; Feb 2, 2010 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Added the Dyno chart
