i run motul 10w 40....no smokin here.....cold or warm startups....

 

That thread on oil is very informative, but when you go the "built" engine route it is no longer "our engines"

you have to look at things like bearing clearances, piston/wall clearances, operating parameters (boost, power, outside temps....) and make a decision accordingly, while a thinner oil will flow quicker it is also not as good a film lubricant as thicker oils, so you have to find the right balance for your engine, form me with the "build" of my engine plus the environment I think a 10W40 is the best for me after trying 0W40

 

Well, I guess if you look at it from a perspective of how much oil is burning off, which may or may not have merit as far as the ability of the oil to protect the engine (I don't know the answer to that), then perhaps use of the 10W-40 oil would have benefits over the 0W-40. I'm not an expert in oils, but I don't see how having some of the oil burn off is necessarily bad for engine lubrication so long as there is an adequate supply of oil to replace the oil that has been burnt off. Here I would like Resolute to chime in, if he is still following the forum.

 

I agree with this. Im assuming you also mean by adequate supply that you actually having to add a quart maybe between oil changes or so. Im running 06 rev-up and I burn off quite a bit and i noticed now boosted i burn even more than NA. Im running RP 5w-30 which I just realized it prolly sucks. Either gonna switch to full synthetic German Castrol 10w-30 or a M1 10w-30 and see if im still gonna be burning off so much. That and a home depot catch can to also determine how much oil im losing.

 

Yes, I do mean by adequate oil supply that you add oil when it starts to get low, which may happen between oil changes. The key is the oil analysis, as explained in Resolute's thread.

 

well I am going to send a sample in, I haven't yet I keep forgetting.

my engine has about 20k miles on it, and my initial oil consumption might also have been switching to 0W40 mobil 1 too early before allowing the piston rings to seat with the Darton Mid Sleeves, my understanding is that it takes a little longer than with stock sleeves.

Also people need to keep in mind the OP asked about built motors and stock block comments are not necessarily the same experience

 

not really.

at operating temps both of those will be a 40 wt oil. Then whatever the oil is rated for in cold (the temp) is where it will start. I would assume since it's hte same oil company and type it would be rated at the same temp. Let's say 40* F. So at 40* F one is 0wt and the other would be 10wt. Now once you start the car and the oil starts warming they will both become thicker oils until they are a 40wt oil.

So, in that respect, say your oil in cali is 80 deg before you even start the engine, that means that 0w40 isn't 0wt when you turn the key. It would be warmer than 40* therefore it probalby is closer to a 10wt at 80* when you turn the key. So until you are at the temp that they rate the cold portion of the oil you will never see 0wt.

also, a thicker oil on startup will provide LESS lubrication than a thinner oil at startup due to the ability for the thinner oil to move easier through the engine and get oil to vital parts. The thicker oil will move slower and take longer to get oil to the vital engine parts on cold start up. *cold as in engine cold not as in air temperature cold.

With the semi's on my parents farms we can tell this with extreme cold temperature start ups. With the thicker weight oils it might take upwards of 5 seconds before pressure reads on the oil temp gauge. That usually happens when someone forgets to plug in the block heaters. Now with a thinner oil or a warmed oil the trucks oil temp gauge will show pressure almost immediately after cranking due to the thinner oil moving faster through the system.

Sidenote: we use shell rotella synthetic oils in all of our semi's. Some of the engines have 1 million+ miles on them and run 30+psi of boost. For that reason i run rotella synthetic in my car.

Elperuano, i don't think switching oil is going to stop burning oil. I'm on a full build block with 14psi and my engine burns zero oil. I have maybe 2 tbs of oil in my catch can between 3k mile oil changes and when i check my oil frequently it's never lower than when i started.

 

i know exactly what each number represents but if you think every 40 weight oil is as thick as every other 40 weight oil, you are misinformed. the m1 0w40 is one of the thinner 40 weight oils on the market. compare royal purple oils to other oils with the same weight rating and notice that the RP is a bit thinner in real life not just off the manufacturers ratings. Castrol european formula 0w30 is probably as thick as m1 0w40.

 

Wow, good build if u burn 0 oil... Mine eats up oil like da cookie monster.. Tryna determine how much it does exactly.
I figured maybe goin a lil heavier would possibly SLOW down the oil consumption. I think my rp 5w-30 is good for start-ups even though im not in cold weather im just concerned how it'll hold up to the heat. Down here in SFL it gets pretty hot n HUMID. Im hoping once I switch to 10w-30 or 40 it'll hold up better.

 

your air temps won't be an issue at all. The only thing you have to worry about with oil "holding up" to heat is how hot your oil temps get. I have an oil temp gauge for that.

It could be 60 deg outside during a race and the oil temps be in the 240's since it's being raced and have more oil breakdown than a 100 degree day with a normal daily driver seeing 180 deg oil temps. Those "base" numbers they say "protection in these climates" only applies to people that drive a normal car and the oil stays at a normal operating temp. For us that drive differently you just need to be conscious of how hot you are really getting your oil. granted, climate will matter if you are doing the same racing in 60 degrees as 100 degrees though.

 

I run 10w-60 because on top of racing my car sees alot of stop and go traffic. Makes me want to put an electric fan on my oil cooler for those kinds of situations.

 

I'm informed enough to know that I am confident with Mobil's 0w-40 formula, especially for my set-up.

 

M1's 5W-30 here... always used it.

 

I have used 0w40 mobil 1 ever since ive had boost and its been a little over 60,000 miles....but it is a stock block and i burn no oil.

 

On my built motor I am using Rotella T6 5W40. So far my last 3 oil samples have been perfect which I have posted on here. My weather condition = Miami.

 

What kind of oil pressures are you guys seeing at 1000,3000,5000,7000rpm, etc... ??

 

My gauge maxes out at 4k+ rpm, highest it can read is 100psi.

 

Engine warmed up:

20 idle

40-60 cruizing

80+ at high revs

On a cold engine startup pretty much 80+PSI all the time.