winterdevilg35

well i put the new cap on and i could really tell a difference in how tight the fit was compared to the mishimoto cap. Well I drove my car around for a long time yesterday and ran her hard a few times then I was sitting in the DQ line for at least 15 minutes and then she started to overheat a little bit. I turned my heater on for a minute or two then when it went down to normal temp I turned off the heater and it didn't over heat again after that. Last time I bled my system it seemed like there was a **** ton of bubbles in the system. When it was being bled I would pinch the top radiator hose and when I let go bubbles would just just come streaming out. But it seems the more I bleed the coolant system the better it gets. Since I got a rad cap that isn't f****d im going to bleed her again and hopefully this is the end of it....hope it doesn't end up being my thermostat opening and closeing randomly becuase of a short or something.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

thermostats are mechanical so there cant be a 'short'

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, rad cap won't stop it from overheating. It just stops coolant from boiling out until a higher temp.

i would check for gases in the coolant. It sounds like you are still getting air forced into the system which means possible head gasket leak.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

I had a similar incident with my Greddy radiator cap. U would think aftermarket would be better than stock, well not in this case. Had to ditch the Greddy Rad cap and go back to stock. No problems since. Until it just hit 99 degrees in NY. Now I'm wondering why I'm hitting 240-250 water temps? Fans are working but dont activate until I turn on the AC. Nismo Thermostat seems to be working. Just bled system with spill-free-funnel, and got good heat from heater. Activating my AC brings temps down, but if left off, they soar, fairly quickly when boosting.