jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

Your location says CA, so if want to stay carb legal go with the Vortech or the HKS S/C--The HKS S/C will not quite make your goals, unless you fully string it out (more $$$)--and is not as upgradeable as the Vortech, but it is very oem in quality, quite compact and great throttle response with better trq. down low than Vortech. But the Vortech may be your best choice for your power goals, budget, and future upgradeability.

But honestly, if you want the car to last 4 years relatively trouble free (and you already have 50k on the car), I would seriously think about whether you should go F/I or not. There will always be issues that will come up and possibly some that might be a bigger hole in your pocket and put your car out of comission for a time. No one really knows, but you are taking a chance. If it is your DD and don't have access to another car and more funds if things go wrong, weigh this in you decision.

There are always going to be extra costs when going F/I if you want it done right besides buying the basic kit. If you are m/t, you'll need upgrade clutch, if a/t maybe valvebody upgrades, cooling mods (radiator,oil cooler if needed, etc.), upgrade brakes, guages, upgrades ems, upgraded fuel system, and a good tune. All these things add up (likely more than ~$8k) and even if you have every upgrade out there, it is not guaranteed to be bulletproof. Even built engines aren't bulletproof. All you need to do is search a little in the F/I for the pluses and the minuses of F/I.

Also, 450whp is not necesarily safe for stock internals. Many say 400/400, but this is a general rule of thumb and a lot depends on the tune, supporting mods, how you drive it (whether you beat on it all the time or only occasionaly push it), and luck. There are no guarantees...

Bottom line is you have to pay to play so plan accordingly and be prepared if things don't go as smooth as you hope.

OP, not trying to discourage you, boost is very fun and addictive. Just need to consider all possibilities. I would definetly do a compression/leak down test on your engine and make sure everything is good before you drop $$$ on a F/I setup.

G/L with your decision and be safe abroad.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input everyone...My assumed budget is:
$4500 new for Turbonetics(not the tuner kit)
$2000 Borla headers & exhaust
$1000 tune
$2000 - gauges, ems
A little bit over the original $8000, but that's how I see it. And why do you say keep it NA? That was my original thought for longevity, but everyone pretty much recommends FI for anything over 300whp. I'm not looking to spend $6-7k to get an extra 50-75 hp/tq.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Okay…you don’t need headers…why are you getting the Turbonetics kit? …what are you tuning it with?

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean I don't need headers? Nobody "needs" headers, but it's obviously going to help performance. And the Turbonetics kit gives good hp gains at a good price. I'm taking it to a shop to get tuned.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Any gains are going to be negligible when you factory in costs…you’re better off using that money to buy a better turbo kit in the first place. Again, what are you using to tune with? ProEFI, UpRev? UTEC? Haltech? etc.

seymore4

iTrader: (27)

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

I thought headers would be more effective than a catback or anything else...? And I hadn't made a decision what I'll be using to tune iwht yet. I'm just in the research/learning stage, I'm going to be ordering parts while overseas and will finish the build when I get back.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if you missed it, but as JonnyLaw pointed out, the Turbonetics is not CARB legal. Assuming that your car is registered in CA, you will have a tough time passing smog inspection unless you can find an unscrupulous testing station to work with you, and risk their license while doing so. My vote is to go with a SC kit that is CARB approved IF your car is registered in CA. If it is registered in a state without such restrictions, then you should be fine with a turbo kit, though Turbonetics would not be my first choice.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

It's registered in CA now, but I plan on registering it in NY once I build it. That's where my home of record is anyway and I'm still technically a NY resident, even though I get the benefits of residency in both NY and CA. Why would Turbonetics not be your first choice?

IIQuickSilverII

iTrader: (13)

to save you from reasearching countless of forum threads..... only consider a Tn kit if you looking for simple build, and if you can find it used at a good price and good shape(very hard this days probably)..otherwise jsut get somethign carb legal

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

When I first started my build, I was looking for 400 whp. But soon later wanted more hp. Perhaps you will be perfectly happy at 400 whp, but all too often when we get boost we want more... I would look for a kit that has future upgrade capacity, or that already has higher potential. There are a lot of kits out there that will give you that, though they may cost more.

350Z400rwhp

iTrader: (4)

Dude take advantage of your timing. I can only wish Boosted Performance had their kit available when I went FI. Hands down his kit is MUCH easier to install than the Turbonetics and you will have none of the heat related issues with your A/C lines. Oh and BTW if you are considering buying headers for the Turbonetics kit you still have a lot of research to do before you make a purchase. Powerlab would be my second choice, Vortech my third and Turbonetics my last.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

One more note, a lot of turbo kits come with the exhaust manifolds. Save money and ditch the Borla exhaust/headers (will those headers even work with the TN kit?), and use the money that you save toward a better turbo kit. You can get a good exhaust system that will get you to 500 whp, or close to that number, for about $830 (e.g., APS 2.5"), and that gives you another $1,170 to put toward the turbo kit.

Also, you are going to need money for other things with the build (e.g., clutch if you are manual, tranny upgrades of you are auto, and numerous other things), as is fully explained in numerous threads on the forum if you do the research.

tonyzS/C03

iTrader: (3)

^+1 for the JWT kit, i've never seen a bad review of one and a friend of mine ran his for 3 or 4 years with about 430 or so to the wheels, not saying that you'll see that but 400 is well with in reach of the kit.

devildriver421

iTrader: (1)

About the JWT, I've heard mixed things about TT compared to ST. The Boosted Performance kit looks great, I'd take that over the TN, but what benefits will a TT have vs cons? Gas mileage will be worse, lag will be worse(Ive heard mixed), installation will be a *****. But more power.

ttg35fort, I'm not looking to hit 500whp, as internals are not in the horizon and I don't want to mess anything up, or have to buy a new bottom end.

johnwigs

lag worse??? you can't get JWT turbos except from JWT... they are machined outlets that improve already responsive ball bearing turbos... yes JWT install is a little bit complicated... but in the long run it will take less time because treadstone kit dosent come with all the parts needed to complete the job and/or incorrect parts... then you have to call customer service and argue with their customer service that the part that is in your hand is 6 inches long when it is only 4... never again with treadstone (TN) kit... nightmare... JWT is upgradeable and if you need reference than check out the BC suspension redline time attack car (JWT 700BB) find a turbonetics kit that can keep up

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

You might want to do more research on the lag issue and comparing TT lag to ST lag . TT kits with small turbos, (e.g., GT25s and GT28s) typically spool up noticably faster than the TN kit. If I remember correctly, the TN kit reaches full spool in the low 4k rpm range, maybe 4200 rpm. A pair of GT28 turbos will spool by roughly 3500 rpm. A pair of GT25s will spool even faster. I don't know what turbos the Power Enterprises TT kit is running, but it is fully spooled by about 3000 rpm or so.

Also, the ST kits that I have seen are not as well matched to our engine displacement as the TT kits, and thus the compressors don't operate in their maximum efficiency zones. You will probably find that your intake air temperature with the TN ST kit will be higher than a with typical TT kit.

Anyway, if you will never exceed 400 whp, then a ST kit is the most cost effective option and probably the way to go for your goals and budget constraints. I just posted the information above to keep the facts straight.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

I am not sure how the JWT spools, but can tell you that my single 6262 T4 .58 a/r spools to 9psi by 3580rpm. IAT's are very good too. On a 80deg F day at the track my IAT's were 96deg crossing the 1/4 mile in 4th. It looked to me (on the Haltech log) like the line was nice and flat too, after top of 3rd.

And yes, that turbo is large, but gives one room to grow. I think the 6262 would be very hapy at 15-17psi.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

Can you post a dyno graph? It would be nice for comparison purposes.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

I don't have a graph for the 6262 T4 turbo, but I do have one for the T3 6162 .81 a/r.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...IMG_4803-1.jpg

Here is the dyno from Vas (hope he does not mind me posting it):



I have the identical set up and see 9.2psi at 3600rpm as per this log with the T4 .58a/r 6262. No EBC, spring pressure (.6bar or 8.7psi) only:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_5108.jpg