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How many miles do you have on your ATI SC?

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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 09:50 PM
  #21  
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dr. bonz:

I did build a warning system but I don't have any plans to
sell it. I started by pulling the boost/psi value directly from inside
the fmu and display that value in a guage. That way, I know
exactly what boost the FMU is processing (and if it's processing
at all). Next, I built a warning system (loud buzzer) which goes
off if (1) the car is under boost and (2) the O2 sensor reads lean
(less than .7v, o2 is very stable at WOT). I was originally going
to automatically dump boost or cut throttle with these conditions but decided against any sudden behavours from the car. Total
cost in parts in about 10 bucks. I can draw it up if someone
wants it.

There are some pictures of the gauges here:

I built this before I decided to install the J&S.
With the J&S, I don't think you really need this because the
J&S has a display. In fact, it also displays wide band O2 values
too (if you already have one). I didn't order any display.
Instead, I'm going to display their knock led through my stock
security led. When car is off, it's a security led. When car is on,
it's a knock led.

BriGuyMax:

I've already started this by ordering a unit from John at J&S.
Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for a unit and it's been over a
week. I'm hoping it'll arrive this week because I go back to
work afterwards and will be busier than ever...
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 11:54 AM
  #22  
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From what I have experienced with these cars, is that right before the shift, the timing seems to rapidly increase to help smooth the transition to the next gear. This also increases the amount of heat in the combustion chamber, and can lead to detonation. I'm not saying it's bad that it increases, just that it doesn't seem to follow a linear curve, but rather more like a "j" I could be 100% wrong in this, but I have no way of seeing what the computer is doing.
Nail on head.

3000 RPM - 19 BTDC
4000 RPM - 19 BTDC
5000 RPM - 19 BTDC
6000 RPM - 20 BTDC
6500 RPM - 28 BTDC
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 12:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by zparts
Nail on head.

3000 RPM - 19 BTDC
4000 RPM - 19 BTDC
5000 RPM - 19 BTDC
6000 RPM - 20 BTDC
6500 RPM - 28 BTDC
Are these specs on a stock Z motor? Maybe the ATI is not allowing the timing to be retarded thus a possibility to the detonation?
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 12:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by zland
Are these specs on a stock Z motor? Maybe the ATI is not allowing the timing to be retarded thus a possibility to the detonation?
BINGO!
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 12:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally posted by N4Spd

BriGuyMax:

I've already started this by ordering a unit from John at J&S.
Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for a unit and it's been over a
week. I'm hoping it'll arrive this week because I go back to
work afterwards and will be busier than ever...
Awesome, let us know how it goes!

Is J&S Going to help you figure out how to wire it up to your ECU, or is this going to be a solo flight?
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 01:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by zparts
Nail on head.

3000 RPM - 19 BTDC
4000 RPM - 19 BTDC
5000 RPM - 19 BTDC
6000 RPM - 20 BTDC
6500 RPM - 28 BTDC
Where did you get these numbers from?
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 04:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by zparts
Nail on head.

3000 RPM - 19 BTDC
4000 RPM - 19 BTDC
5000 RPM - 19 BTDC
6000 RPM - 20 BTDC
6500 RPM - 28 BTDC


Hmm 10.3 CR engine+7lbs boost + 28deg + 91 oct = plasma torch!
And those #s are from a stock motor on the premium timing curve

Last edited by jawbone; Nov 10, 2003 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 05:09 PM
  #28  
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it's a solo flight. you'd think that being the first one to
try it out on our cars I'd get some special treatment but
no. In fact, I'm paying 2 day fedex shipping only to have
to wait over 1.5 weeks (now) for it to actually SHIP!!!
Still hasn't shipped.

Only advice I got was that it should be the same as the
maxima. I guess you don't have to drum up business if
you know your product is good... I was so excite about
it that I emailed and called about my situation (last week
of free time). Call Friday, said it'd ship monday. Called
today said it'd ship wednesday and arrive Friday (via my
2 day fedex) only to run out of weekday time... argh, can
you tell I'm a little dissappointed...

oh well, just hope it works I guess...


Originally posted by BriGuyMax
Awesome, let us know how it goes!

Is J&S Going to help you figure out how to wire it up to your ECU, or is this going to be a solo flight?
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 06:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by N4Spd
it's a solo flight. you'd think that being the first one to
try it out on our cars I'd get some special treatment but
no. In fact, I'm paying 2 day fedex shipping only to have
to wait over 1.5 weeks (now) for it to actually SHIP!!!
Still hasn't shipped.

Only advice I got was that it should be the same as the
maxima. I guess you don't have to drum up business if
you know your product is good... I was so excite about
it that I emailed and called about my situation (last week
of free time). Call Friday, said it'd ship monday. Called
today said it'd ship wednesday and arrive Friday (via my
2 day fedex) only to run out of weekday time... argh, can
you tell I'm a little dissappointed...

oh well, just hope it works I guess...

That really stinks. From what I've heard from the maxima guys J&S gives really good support of their product and is timely with shipment. Hope you see it soon!! If you run into any issues, I can give you someone to contact for help. Just PM me.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 07:37 PM
  #30  
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N4Spd,

I can give you some advice on this. Don't trust the FSM. I did some tapping into of coil wires at the ECU and the FSM was wrong on which pins they were coming out of. I ended up injecting a signal and then taking an oscope to find out which wire was really which one. The colors were right in the manual though.

Jesse
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 08:13 PM
  #31  
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hi Jesse,

Thanks for the advice. I also noticed a problem.

First, I found a "W/L" wire, but it wasn't what I
expected. It didn't even go to the right pin!
Turns out, there's 2 (yes TWO) W/L wires in the
bundle. The second one was correct and went
to the right pin. Next I found a "W" wire. Again,
it was the wrong signal and wrong pin. Geez,
so I looked harder and again found a SECOND "W"
wire. The second one was right.

So, yes, please everyone double check what wires
you are cutting or taping even if the colors match!
First time for everything.

thanks jesse,
rob

Originally posted by jesseenglish
N4Spd,

I can give you some advice on this. Don't trust the FSM. I did some tapping into of coil wires at the ECU and the FSM was wrong on which pins they were coming out of. I ended up injecting a signal and then taking an oscope to find out which wire was really which one. The colors were right in the manual though.

Jesse
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 06:16 PM
  #32  
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I use the TS reflash to retard timing, enlarged my injectors to 380cc's and don't use the FMU provided by ATI just the blower and FMIC and the cars runs 11.5 through every gear on a special computer and wideband 02 and my EGT guage never went over 650 ever even at high boost. The 11.5 is set into the programming of the ECU rather than relying on the Aeromotive and I love the car and the kit. I wish I knew what timing numbers my car has now but they wouldn't say. It's a solution though because 3k miles and running strong at full boost (saw 7.2 once on boost guage.) You think I could buy 9 lb pulleys with my cat pipes and wide open exhaust on this setup?

Last edited by 12SecZ; Nov 22, 2003 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 06:50 PM
  #33  
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Default 9lbs pulley

If you go with a 9psi pulley , you'll probably need another replash. Unless TS upgrade the MAP , the ECU can't track a nother boost slope 9 vs. 7psi. I assume they just tuned your AFR
soley related to RPM with no >1bar PSI <MAP input available. So I don't belive AFR would track without a re-flash. You should ask TS of course before bumping up the psi.

IMO
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 07:50 PM
  #34  
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Might have to upgrade your stock fuel pump also, being that your not running the DFMU and inline pump anymore.
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 09:01 PM
  #35  
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Thank you. They (TS) had mentioned the larger fuel pump (P.E. sells one) and even a regulator. I forgot about that part. Good reminder. Not really worth it as my car is very very fast and purrs like a kitten. Why fix what isn't broken eh? Thanks!
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 09:04 PM
  #36  
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PE fuel pump = Walbro

Just FYI to save money.

Victor
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 10:20 PM
  #37  
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hey guys

I know that I am not a true Z owner... but I follow what you guys, the true die hard modders on the edge do, and attempt to bring a little of that courage over to the Z's cousin's camp, the G!!!

I would appreciate your comments on this... My G, although you probably won't tell... is a fast one. But it is about to get a lot faster... Youa re looking at the first PE TT-outfitted G (will be done in mid-December).

Do I understand correctly tha, withthe inline PE fuel pump, as well as a pressure regulator (that keeps the pressure at a consistent and constant value) the TS reflash will take care of the A/F mixtures,which I reckon need to be in the 11.5 vicinity, and timings without the addition of any other devices (FMU, etc) to control mixtures and timings.


More importantly, this is the safest method isn't it (for everything to be controlled by the ECU)?

Gurgen
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