Car won't start?
#1
Car won't start?
Prior to my incident car was working fine but having hard time starting and would somewhat hesitate and sputter at times of getting on the gas. Then recently car would not start it threw a P0345 then P0340 also. I got new sensors got a new battery, cleared code, took terminals off batter for reset and still no start. For some reason it sounds like it's not getting fuel but not positive, so checked the ECM fuses and look fine is there a fuel pump fuse as well? Also could this be a crank position sensor even though no code is being thrown? I did change the crank sensor a while back upon changing it the old one did look a bit damaged. Any suggestions please
#5
I was told to try to push the car back n forth prior to starting, first go car cranked, 2nd try car hesitated and then backfired and started right up. So I will be replacing this crankshaft position sensor, what a b!#ch after buying the 2 cam sensors ends up being the last sensor I already changed.
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#8
I was told to try to push the car back n forth prior to starting, first go car cranked, 2nd try car hesitated and then backfired and started right up. So I will be replacing this crankshaft position sensor, what a b!#ch after buying the 2 cam sensors ends up being the last sensor I already changed.
cool that it worked... what could be the problem if it took some back n forth pushing and a lullaby to get it to start?
#14
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I'm pretty sure you typoed the codes. Crankshaft codes are P0335 - P0349. Also, those codes aren't an indication of just the sensor failing. It could be something more simple like a bad circuit. Since you replaced the sensor, take a look at the wiring around it. Here are the procedures you should follow
* Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
* Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
* Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
* Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
* Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
* Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
* Diagnose/replace the PCM as required
* Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
* Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
* Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
* Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
* Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
* Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
* Diagnose/replace the PCM as required
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Let me know if that works out.
#16
I've never messed with a camshaft sensor before, but it does sound like wiring/circuitry is the culprit here, because I've experienced similar issues with electronics before. It's simple really, the reason why the car will start and stop when it's hot is because the heat could be creating a soldered-effect on the wiring around the two sensors, heating them enough to create a flowing circuit. But when the car cools off, so do the wires, and thus the circuit is broken again. So take a look at the wiring.
Let me know if that works out.
Let me know if that works out.
#17
Wiring seems to be OK, cleaned/checked all connections still no start, so bumped car and drove around and today P2135 TPS code came on the freeway. Luckily got help to bump the car and drove home in limp mode to scan code and clear. I have been hearing of optimas being brand new testing fine and not having enough cca to start or hold the charge. If it's not one thing it's another
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Seems we have the exact same issue at the exact same time, maybe it was a timebomb Infiniti put in the cars lol
I read your thread and I have the exact same symptoms, car cranks but wont start, changed all crank and cam sensors, checked codes, checked every fuse (Even checked them with a multimeter for continuity) The only thing that starts the car is a push start. After the car runs for a bit I can start it with the key
Hopefully we can figure this out together
I read your thread and I have the exact same symptoms, car cranks but wont start, changed all crank and cam sensors, checked codes, checked every fuse (Even checked them with a multimeter for continuity) The only thing that starts the car is a push start. After the car runs for a bit I can start it with the key
Hopefully we can figure this out together
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i had a similar problem, it ran fine before i shut it off, then two hours or so later i wouldnt start, it would just crank and never fire, i went to dinner and came back and tried it, and it started right up and it hasnt happened again, so i dont know what the problem was
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Id also like to add, I drove it around and it was fine idling around and driving at regular speeds but whenever I gave it 100% TPS it would backfire. It seems like the ignition is cutting out under heavy load. As I was pulling it back into my driveway the cars idle dropped and the car wouldnt start again. Totally clueless