Just as the title states, what are the approximate lifespan of turbos before they require rebuild/replacement?

I'm assuming a lot has to do with maintenance and use, but on average, how long do/can they last?

Do certain types of turbos last longer than others? (e.g. Garrett bb vs. Mitsubishi journal?)

For instance, I have read some that have had to replace JWT/Garett bb turbos after 20k miles due to shaft play/leaking seals. That could get expensive when factoring in labor and part costs if such rebuilds/replacements are required so regularly.

Is there a type of turbo that can last the life of the car, if properly maintained?

 

The Garrett BB turbos are supposed to last longer due to being water cooled and all, but I honestly don't have any real world data to back that up vs journal bearing turbos. That being said, with proper cool down techniques (turbo timer and/or not shutting down right after flogging on them), and proper oil change schedules, either style should last tens thousands of miles.

 

I have approx 13K miles on my Greddy kit, the lowest boost it has ever seen is 13psi.

I feel like they are slightly slower to respond now than new, they could be getting tired, but they still hold 20psi when told to do so. Never smoked never had any issues with em.

Im more worried about engine longevity personally than turbo life.

 

Consider this in your thought process as well, a Garrett BB cartridge replacement is roughly $1700 for the pair, compare that to $600 per pair for the journal bearings.

 

Bump. I hate to sound like a noob but how does keeping the engine running help (via a turbo timer)? I have a garrett and I always thought that hooking the timer to the rad fans was better because it to allows the coolant cool the turbo faster...

 

If you keep a filter on the compressor inlet, don't feed the turbine any engine parts, and properly oil the turbo (this includes proper drain) it will last a very long time. It is absurd to expect a properly installed turbocharger that is used within its design limitations to fail in 20K miles.

Many things can contribute to premature failure of a turbo. Excessive shaft speed, contaminated oil, and excessive EGT, are a few of a long list.

Turbochargers in OEM applications last 100K+ miles, and 1M+ in diesel applications.

 

Not only the coolant, but it allows cooler oil to cycle through the turbo as well, more specifically just after running boost.

 

I understand. I still think the device is only good for actual track usage. I'll probably buy one and use it only then. I only wish that I could modify it some how to run the fans for about 30sec-1 minute after the car turns off.

 

Twins on my Z have over 20K on them..all three garrett turbos which will see 25 PSI - 35 PSI on a regular basis on my three diesels are all over 150,000 miles...EGT's are VERY important..should NEVER shut off a turbo charged engine until EGT's are below 400F..or you can cook the oil in the turbo...For example..my F350 will see only about 1250-1300* while towing 22K up a steep grade...it can run all day long at 1250 degrees...granted its a diesel, but its just an example..regular oil changes etc..turbos should last indefinitely..

 

I didn't know that, thanks. As a matter of fact, I don't have my EGT gauge anymore. I've been doing a lot more car meets lately but I know I'm not running too hot and at the time I always let my car run for 3-5 minutes until I turn it off.

 

That 400* is relative.. Readings will vary greatly depending on where your probe is placed. Egts are best used for comparison on each engine. For example my probe on my z33 is before the turbo where the runners collect, an idle is about 800*. After the turbo on the s30 and z32 idle is somewhere around 600* when cool.

Fwiw I have 45k daily driven hard miles on my 18g's with no issues whatsoever.

Ross

 

4 years and 7k miles here. No issues. Greddy 18Gs

 

The lowest EGT I see at idle is about 700f ... it sits around 800-850 right after stopping with normal driving. Unless it's been driven aggressively (boost or high rpm) before stopping (which results in 1000+f), I don't think a timer is really needed. Just letting it idle 30-45 seconds is enough to bring it down to ~800 after more aggressive driving in those cases.

From my limited research, coking is not as much a problem with water+oil cooled bb turbos as it is for oil-only journal turbos.

My sensor is post turbo BTW.

 

Dang! I guess I drive too much, 1.25 years 26,000 miles, greddy 20gs.

 

Hell yeah, good to know mine shouldnt be anywhere near their life's end.

 

lol.

daily ftw.

the greddy turbos seem to hold up to mileage and longevity. Driven everyday or sitting for 2 weeks between drives....that's a good sign.

 

I've got 5+ years and about 30K miles on my APS turbos. No issues whatsoever.

 

Alright, so I supposed I don't need a timer. I suspect the BEST thing the timer does is allow you to get out of the car and lock the doors while it's still running. Other than that manually taking 'cool down laps' or letting the car cool down is enough.

 

Thats right. Its more of a failsafe if you forget to do it yourself.
But after driving the car hard i would suspect you would remember to cool the car down anyway. I always do 2 cooldown laps before coming in.

 

+1 as long as you aren't hot ******* the car right before shutting down you fine, e.g. most type of street use. I doubt you drift down the block into your driveway and immediately shut down...LOL If it's a dedicated track car, then a turbo timer would be very useful.