http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0

 

THANKS!!!!
I'm overheating at cruising hwy speeds and also when im in my boost range (above 3000 rpm) alot for spirited driving

 

engines have a good effeciency range. 160* isn't bad but when the engine isn't fully warmed the oil isn't at optimum temps, engine clearances can be different also.

There is more to it, but i'm not an engineer. You aren't going to blow your engine at 160* though.

I always wait til my coolant is at operating temps (180) and oil temps are over 160* before i put any strain on the engine.

 

Thanks guys for the info about bleeding the cooling system..specifically Binder...GENIUS! Never realized that about lifting the REAR of the car...bled it three times completely hot to ambient..sealed it off..and just came back from beating the hell out of it....high boost, low boost, etc etc...180 degrees..worked like a charm!!!! THANK YOU!!!

Goes to show that you DO learn something new everyday!.

 

 

you're welcome! I'm glad you got it fixed.

like i said, its weird how they have the system setup, to get the air to the radiator the car needs to be lifted in front but that causes air pockets in the heads so it needs to also be lifted in the rear. confusing setup but once you conquer it everything is great.

 

Binder
I wanna be sure I understand ur trick to bleeding

U agree with lifting the front of the car up and bleeding a few times but then you recommend we lower the front and lift the rear and bleed again several tries

 

Worked like a charm...if you have seen the area behind the tstat housing it is clear that air can get trapped in there...back the car up a set of ramps and the water will flow into that pocket and force the air out!

I bled 3 times hot to ambient and it worked great..