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Cooling w/ removed heater core

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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #81  
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Are guys who did the coolant delete mod, minus removing the heater core, having this iissue of overheating?
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bikinilust
Are guys who did the coolant delete mod, minus removing the heater core, having this iissue of overheating?
Yes the bypass line, oil cooler, and heater core removed would not send any hot water to the back of the thermostat.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by spent
I'm running from the "to intake manifold collector (upper)" to the left cylinder bank inlet with a 5/16" fuel line I had lying around the fit the nipple on the backside. I'll try and get some pictures up tommorrow.

But, ya, there is no reason your second setup should give you problems. Your first was just feeding in cooler coolant so the thermo probably wasn't opening as fast as it needs to. Are you going put a new fitting on the rear water pipe? It really is convenient to use that intake nipple since you're not using it... I was going to use the "to heater" nipple but the engine is so close to my firewall that the hose was kinking.
The bypass line I created was from the top of the radiator so it was not cooled, which should have been hot enough to open the stat.

I am going to weld a 6an fitting on the rear crossover pipe. and then another on the stock driverside pipe.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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I had the COMPLETE coolant delete mod done when I had my G and I never had a overheating issue....
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bikinilust
I had the COMPLETE coolant delete mod done when I had my G and I never had a overheating issue....
you said above "minus removing the heater core". They have removed the heater core which means there is zero flow to the back of the tstat when the car is cold. There is no way for coolant to move when the car is just started because the thermostat is closed and that's the only way left for coolant to move in. One way or another there has to be a line allowing coolant around the thermostat when it's closed.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bikinilust
I had the COMPLETE coolant delete mod done when I had my G and I never had a overheating issue....
I have deleted all of the lines I deemed unnecessary but still have the heater and I have never had a heating issue.

Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; Nov 20, 2010 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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yup same here, it only started when i removed the heater core. i know why now.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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I pulled this plate after I got it all working in order to put a thermo sensor in the other hole... Now my cooling system is having issues again... I think I might do a larger bypass line so the engine is pushing air out quicker. I burped it for hours last night, took it out this morning, and both the intlet and the outlet pipes are warming so I might have fixed it again... dunno.

Here's what I am workin with...


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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #89  
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Some work more r&d for the heater delete, and maintaining temp with working t-stat.

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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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That will work.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
That will work.
I deleted my previous post.



Question for everyone:

I have a garret turbo with coolant lines in the center housing. To promote a cooler turbo/open T-STAT is ok to run my turbo coolant lines to the T-STAT?

I'm thinking about tapping into the RADIATOR like Green did (on the outlet side) and have that go directly into my turbo center house then back out into EITHER

The T-STAT



OR this bypass line



My theory is that the hot turbo will active the T-STAT.
Attached Thumbnails Cooling w/ removed heater core-img_2700_small.jpg  
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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If the turbo generates enough heat, I'm sure it would be fine. Like I said before, I don't think running a line from the outlet of the radiator directly to/behind the T-stat promotes enough heat to open the T-stat. However, your turbo will generate heat so hopefully that would be enough to get the T-stat hot. I still think, ideally, you want to bring in flow from the opposite side of the engine, from around the water outlet pipe, where coolant has completely cycles through the engine and would therefore be at its highest temps. Ridding air from these engines pose just as big of problems in regards to cooling...
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by spent
If the turbo generates enough heat, I'm sure it would be fine. Like I said before, I don't think running a line from the outlet of the radiator directly to/behind the T-stat promotes enough heat to open the T-stat. However, your turbo will generate heat so hopefully that would be enough to get the T-stat hot. I still think, ideally, you want to bring in flow from the opposite side of the engine, from around the water outlet pipe, where coolant has completely cycles through the engine and would therefore be at its highest temps. Ridding air from these engines pose just as big of problems in regards to cooling...
This is my next project and I want to ensure that I don’t **** something up. Thank God for this thread. Spent, I understand that the T-STAT needs hot coolant to activate and promote coolant flow through block. My main idea is to direct hot coolant from my turbo (which is almost right next my thermostat):

Theory 1-

The risk involved with my original idea is the turbo not generating enough heat. I’m not an engineer but if I were to tap into my radiator's outlet-side and line that coolant into my tubo's inlet-side then I imagine that the heat wouldn't be the min 160degrees for the Nismo T-STAT maybe because the cool coolant from the radiator is moving too fast inside the relatively small turbo housing to gather enough heat.. On the other hand, if the T-STAT is closed, would the non-circulating coolant from the turbo eventually get hot enough open the T-STAT...? And by that time will the engine already be dangerously hot?

Theory 2-
I’m also considering using the existing line (SHOWN IN MY PICTURE ABOVE – BLUE END) from the coolant pipe to my turbo’s water inlet-side. This flow model will still allow me to run a line from the turbo’s outlet into the Nismo T-STAT. I can guarantee the T-STAT will activate because the coolant would have already circulated through the cylinders, picking up heat, and gotten X times hotter from the turbo before going into the Nismo T-STAT.

Only drawback from theory 2 is my turbo not getting direct cooled coolant from the radiator but instead receiving heated coolant from the engine block.

comments?
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:24 AM
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Interesting stuff here.

I'm going to be doing a wire tuck and i want to remove that radiator bypass line in the front of my engine to make it look nicer.

What all did you guys use to weld those holes closed? Any special metal? I know i have to sand the pipes really well to remove the zinc coating but other than that I'm not sure what other special things i need to go about doing to seal these off.

I'm going to still have the oil warmer and the car's heater line going so i shoudln't have too big of an issue warming up and my tstat opening.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:38 AM
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just grind and weld. i didnt use anything special
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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Yes just grind the coating, I suggest tig welding it to make sure you get a good seal.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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^as i did. i removed the heater core on my track car as well, can i get a breakdown of how to run the coolant lines, etc? my custom single setup has a block off plate with a -6 fitting on it on the driver side coolant port, how are you guys getting around the t-stat issue? i also have the pathfinder coolant mod as well so coolants entering the block from the back
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
^as i did. i removed the heater core on my track car as well, can i get a breakdown of how to run the coolant lines, etc? my custom single setup has a block off plate with a -6 fitting on it on the driver side coolant port, how are you guys getting around the t-stat issue? i also have the pathfinder coolant mod as well so coolants entering the block from the back
If you removed the heater then you'll have to tap/run a line from somewhere. The more I think about this mod, the more I think I should keep the heater core intact to allow the T-STAT open...

I'm studying this and coming up with ideas-
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...AD_GASKETS.pdf

In my case, I have another piece of the puzzle: a hot turbo at requires coolant. I'm still trying to develop with an effective method to introduce the hot turbo coolant into the system.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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This is what worked for me...

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...lesolution.jpg

Made new bypass line
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...y/DSC02962.jpg

Simulated heater loop
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...y/DSC03127.jpg
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by GreenGoblin
Yeah, looks like you figured it out. I, on the other hand, will just keep my heater core for track days. I was thinking about doing some TURBO-T-STAT coolant voodoo but my debate is over. Thanks for the read and good luck with the car.
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