let me get to the point, my motor built by a good builder in my area, it run and drive fine no light come except for my check engine light ( code my misfire, and my cruise control not working, problem soon to be fix), after i drive it to break in the motor and bring for a tune, here the problem all beginning

problem 1. abs, tsc and slip light come on after a few second when i drive
i check all fuse to see if it blown, fill up all the fluid to make sure it not empty, also i replace pads, rotor and break line while doing the build so this couln't cause it

problem 2. after those light above turn on, about few minute later my car shut off while driving ( battery light, and check cel turn on) i try to start again and it work but keep shutting off after a few minute of driving

problem 3. even when i park, i high rev it to about 5k rpm+ the rpm drop very low and about to die, sometime it do and sometime it doesnt but idle very low to the point it about to die

my car running on utec fine before at 450whp but idk why after i brought it in for tune, it mess up incase ya wondering who tune it, it Brice from alamo motors sport charge me a SH*t load of money so i dont have much to go places to get it fix

i need help making my car running good again without it shutting off, please help out a z buddy in need

ps. i have the aps extreme kit

thank you for the help

 

I have the same problem I think the ASCD Steering Switch needs to be rested with the Nissan Consult III

Please tell if you find the solution.


GL.

 

does ur horn work? if not u problem have a lose wires in the steering wheel

 

I'd suggest taking an english class also.

 

oh sorry im typing this in class while taking notes lol

 

English Class?

 

with the haltech you can easily tell if your steering wheel needs to be reset. Just log the CAN for steering angle. should be 0* when the wheels are straight. If not, you need a dealer reset.

If you unbolted the steering column, good chance its wasnt put back exactly the same, so agan you need a dealer to reset that.

as for the stalling, are you using MAP or MAF to tune, at what rpms, and in vac or boost? UTEC is very straight foward so the troubleshooting list on the tuning side is pretty short.


And why cant you bring it back to the tuner to fix if you paid so much money...

 

What else was done to the car since the engine build?

 

i try to bring it back he said it not his fault, it blaming on my utec but my utec work prefectly fine before this

 

Try removing the UTEC completely and driving around (NO BOOST!!!)

If the car stops stalling, then the UTEC is the issue. If it still has issues, then it's not the UTEC.

I recommend doing the idle air relearn and throttle position relearn as well.

 

...

 

What cams and what size injectors are in your car too?

FYI, my steering angle/yaw sensor is way off too and it doesn't kill my car....it just errors the TC out after driving a few feet (i just turn off the VDC anyway and I can brake boost and do burnouts without ECU interference).

Tom

 

Dude aint mesican holmes...he is asian...

 

my head hurt now...