I have an 08 350z this spring I plan on having a greddy tt kit installed I was just wondering if I need to change the flywheel when I change out the clutch... or will the stock one be good enough for 450-500 whp

 

Im sure the search feature line is gonna be used,,, But IMO id change it since pullin the tranny aint something I wanna do for fun.. Do it once Do it right!!!

 

I did search ...it seems that most of the stock block hr's stayed with oem flywheel unless they didnt mention the added flywheel.
You are right though do it right the first time .... I,m going with southbend dxd 6 puck and their flywheels and an upgraded csc thanks...

 

U could pull it off what im sayin is that if u have the tranny out its a better idea to plan ahead and thro in a lwfw so in the future you wont have to think about it. Its a great addition IMO and worth doing wen upgrading ur clutch

 

Heard great things about the JWT combo.

 

Makes sense I just wondered the draw back on the stock flywheel .... less acceleration

 

Yes. I recommend a matching clutch-flywheel from the same manufacture.

 

you absolutely do NOT need to change the flywheel

 

Anyone knows the powr limit for the stock HR flywheel?

 

no such thing. A flywheel is just a piece of machined steel or aluminum. The only differences you will have is the weight. Lighter means the engine can rev faster. It will also make it more twitchy so it won't be smooth like stock.

If you want more of a stock feel with the extra power stay with the oem flywheel. There truthfully isn't a "benefit" to upgrading the flywheel. Most do it because they have a bunch of miles on their OEM flywheel. Ya, you'll be able to rev the engine faster but once you put it in gear and actually drive it you are barely going to notice an acceleration difference (if at all).

 

Not our flywheel, its a dual mass flywheel, which have been know to fail, as in my car which was bone stock and other cars I have seen.

I would highly recommend upgrading to a 1 piece flywheel.

Z1 auto, what kind of FI experience have you had running the stock flywheel? Highest ft-lb held etc?

 

I had both, stock at 769rwhp, and billet at 800+rwhp.

Very different reaction from each.

Stock fw I was running Southbend Stage 5 full face disk.
Billet I was running southbend Extreme stage 5 6 puck.

Which is better? That depends what feel you want. Stock flywheel was a little easier to get moving from a stop. Billet flywheel reved a little faster and allowed shifting a little faster (less spinning mass).

Tom

 

Yes, I was talking about the HR dual mass flywheel.

 

Lmfbo at the Z 1 comment.. This guy always comes in with info, sometimes good sometimes horrible..

No one says u absolutely have to change the flywheel, but y wouldn't u if u pulled the tranny and upgraded the clutch.. Its a no brainer, and as many have mentioned take full advantage of a light weight fw shaving off rotational mass... Car can rev quicker getting those turbos where they need to be....

Get a lwfw, south bend would be my next choice if not a multi disk.....

 

if you install a LWFW, which thereby lets you rev the engine faster, would that theoretically lead to problems with traction? From what some of my friends told me, they hated having a LWFW in their boosted cars. i've been looking for clear answers regarding this as well, especially since i won't be able to fit wider tires in my Sedan.

If it's a dumb question, flame away before answering.

 

describe what fails. I've never heard of a flywheel fail. Maybe warp from over slipping the clutch but i don't call that failure. I have yet to hear of a flywheel coming to pieces and destroying something aka "fail".


also, people think there will be some magic increase in spool and acceleration. The engine will free rev faster but when you put it down to the ground the rev is far less noticable. You may have like 1% increase in accel which on a human is not noticable.

free rev and actuall acceleration while in gear putting power down to the ground are 2 completely different things.

going from a heavy stock setup down to an os giken setup that the whole unit (flywheel and clutch) is lighter than just the flywheel on a light flywheel setup. My car free revs but actually acceleration difference? not enough to even change my time on the drag strip so not measureable.

 

The 2 pieces spin freely of one another, you can stand on one surface and spin completely around with nearly no resistance, when it happens its kindof the opposite of a failing clutch, you have to keep the engine spinning at high rpms for the car to move.

It happened on my car along with 2 others I have seen over the years, im not saying its a common occurrence but it does happen. I may be able to find my old flywheel to video it. Its very common in older F series super duty trucks also as they have a dual mass flywheel.

 

I don't have any customers who have used a stock flywheel on a very high hp/torque car, because most of our customers go with one of the multidisk clutches which come with integrated flywheels. Weight is not the only concern either - where the weight is located is equally important. Just like with wheels, or anything else that rotates.

My comment to the OP still stands - at that hp level, a stock flywheel can be retained and there are any number of aftermarket clutches that can be chosen to mate with it. Changing the flywheel is not required, but may be desired for any number of reasons. It may also not be desirable for some people...again there are pluses and minuses. At higher torque levels, the ultra lightweight standalone flywheel may not be that desirable in order to maintain torque at the wheels at high rpm's

 

that's crazy. So it broke the pieces that hold it from spinning but it didn't just fall into 2 parts. It's hard to believe that it could stay together like that but i guess it happens.

I had over 500 hp to mine and it was perfectly fine. The only way i see it failing is manufacturing defect.

 

This is called "moment of inertia" and you are absolutely right. I hope that we will see the day when ThingsThatSpin (wheels, tires, flywheels, etc) actually quote their moment of inertia in their data so we can make more informed decisions. It's the only thing that actually matters if you are looking to get gains via this technique. I'm surprised that some of the VERY expensive wheel makers haven't jumped on this to try to justify their prices.