Questions about main studs for my build...
10-28-2010, 09:21 PM
#21
if u want to take a chance on headlift then go for the HR gaskets and arp regular headstuds. I believe the regular ARP studs recommend u retorque them after a certain amount of miles so I would just suck it up and buy proven goods the 1st time. Go with the HKS or PE headgasket and the L19.
10-28-2010, 09:21 PM
#22
Alright...topic change. I'll buy the studs.
Headgaskets and head studs.
Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? I don't think so (not sure)
MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Yes
Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )
I would get the L19 for a peace of mind
Headgaskets and head studs.
Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? I don't think so (not sure)
MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Yes
Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )
Originally Posted by http://www.importpartspro.com/arpvqheandma.html
ARP VQ35 Head Stud Kit for the 2003-2006 Nissan 350z is good for people staying under the 500Rwhp range. Anything over 500 Rwhp we recommend upgrading to the L19 studs
.
10-29-2010, 05:19 AM
#23
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How about me keeping the regular arp studs but using a Cosworth headgasket? The entire oem setup can hold mid 400whp, so these other setups should be at the very least capable of holding 500-550whp I'd think.
10-29-2010, 06:15 AM
#24
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If all you are looking for is 500-550whp, use the HKS headgaskets and standard ARP headstuds. That should be fine for your power level goals. But if you think you may go 600+ then I would put in the L19's. I presently have this set up now for the same power goals with 0 issues. A lot the advice has to do with how bad you are going to beat on the car. Make sure you address water and oil cooling, this is a must given you live in a hot climate.
10-29-2010, 06:38 AM
#25
Alright...topic change. I'll buy the studs.
Headgaskets and head studs. Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )?
Headgaskets and head studs. Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )?
10-29-2010, 06:58 AM
#26
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Stock headbolts over standard arp studs? Maybe HR headbolts?
I'd use the HR gasket but I have to machine the block for it, I'd prefer not to.
Also, I can get the cosworth one at a pretty good price and it's construction seems similar to the HKS one, anyone think it's a bad gasket?
I'd use the HR gasket but I have to machine the block for it, I'd prefer not to.
Also, I can get the cosworth one at a pretty good price and it's construction seems similar to the HKS one, anyone think it's a bad gasket?
10-29-2010, 07:49 AM
#28
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So, if sleeve installs were easier you'd recommend everyone to get them?
I've been told to use a revup oil pump and have found good reasoning behind it to do so from problems people have had in the past. I bought one.
Regardless, I'm not saying it's a bad idea either considering that I'd have to buy new oem bolts anyways....but I'm just wondering the reasoning behind it, or if it's just another gimmick that people fall for due to it's price and the fact the replacing a broken main ( if ever ) is a PITA!
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 10-29-2010 at 07:51 AM.
10-29-2010, 09:49 AM
#29
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Alright...topic change. I'll buy the studs.
Headgaskets and head studs. Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )?
Headgaskets and head studs. Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )?
You can even go with HR head bolts since you are planning on sticking with the Vortech
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
Who needs a micrometer to build motors
I used my kids school ruler and a Measuring tape ^_^
Put the motor together with some duct tape and it's all good
Last edited by Glex25; 10-29-2010 at 09:54 AM.
10-29-2010, 12:00 PM
#30
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I already have the standard ARP studs...are they better than oem ones or worse? Even if they are the same I may as well use them with a bad *** gasket ( HKS or Cosworth )
10-29-2010, 04:28 PM
#31
the gasket isnt so much important as the studs. Thats why the stock HR gasket can get away with L19s.
realistically for just your supercharger, regular ARP is just fine. but that will really limit you down the road if you get the BP turbo setup or something else
realistically for just your supercharger, regular ARP is just fine. but that will really limit you down the road if you get the BP turbo setup or something else
10-29-2010, 08:21 PM
#33
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Another thing is...how much should I torque them? I've read some people saying 65ish while some even going as high as 85ish for the regular arp studs.
10-29-2010, 09:35 PM
#34
seems like u rather take chances so why not reuse your stock pistons (if they are still good) and buy some eagle H beam rods. The weakest part of the stock motor is the oem rods so I think this should save u at least 700 if u reuse your stock pistons. Also, this keeps your compression at 10.5:1 which will net u more power with the vortech.
10-30-2010, 05:31 PM
#39
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FWIW, I know of a local guy down here who has put 750whp in his G35 and he uses the standard ARP bolts. Don't know what gasket he has though.
