So as long as we do an ECU Reflash & install the J & S Safeguard. Would those be the most essential mods. to add when installing the Procharger to prevent a blown engine or do we need other things as well?

 

J&S and ECU re-flash will be an excellant choice. The emanage will add tunability to your reflash if you change mods. There is an adapter in the works to use the emanage ignition harness and the J&S together.

 

if your getting your ECU re-flash there is no need for a J&S safeguard.....the only thing you would need is some time of air/fuel computer to fine tune the car thats if your not bringing your car to either TS or AAM to do the reflash

 

The ECU reflash will address the timing maps, but it will give you no protection from detonation other than the stock ECU and knock sensor circuits. The J&S will allow you to run more aggressive timing and allow the protection. If you get the ECU reflashed, I would leave the timing map in the stock mode and use the J&S to retard timing. The J&S is far superior to an ECU reflash when it comes to timing.

 

i just found this post and laugh to read some of the posts on it. people blaming the compressor for blowing motors or ati for selling the kit or what ever otyher reason anyone has. look, you are taking a 10.3 comp motor and supercharging it!!! wtf do you think the chances are. everyone wants a guaranty on pushing a motor to the max. if you can't afford to play then don't do it!!! if you go with f/i then you will always want more power and not many ways to do it with a bolt on kit reliably.
i ran an ati kit at 15 psi (85,000rpm compressor speed) on stock internals with no dyno tune or timing retard and trying to figure out how others are blowing their motors at 7-9psi!!! ati figured my hp at crank to be around 550-600hp. the motor does not know or care how more air is introduced to the motor!! any f/i kit that comes upon a computer glitch or anything else will blow. i pulled my motor down and had 5 bent rods, but not from detonation but plain overstressed. yes it was still running and sounded good.
i just get aggravated by hearing people on here complaining about a product, because at first is was ati, now it is the greddy tt, and next it will be the aps!!! if you want to bolt on more power expect to pay for reliability!!! the rods in this motor will not hold up to much power. even guys with alot of hp on stock internals will not do it for long (come to think of it i have not seen posts from them in awhile) as metal has a fatigue strength and pushed far for too long they will bend or break.

 

With a Procharger, a relfash would be a great idea to retard the timing to safe levels.

The J&S provides real-time knock supression, and can retard timing by individual cylinder. So its a great safe gaurd, even if you have retarding timing via eManage harness, or ECU reflash.

John, when is this adaptor going to be ready, so we can use the eManage timing harness, in conjunction with the J&S.

 

The drivers inside the emanage were not meant to drive much of a load, and the signals get loaded down when connected to the J&S.

I'll be adding a hex buffer IC to the waste spark adapter module. Mr. BadMonkey's will be hand wired, and if that works out, I'll have some circuit boards made.

While probing the emanage ignition driver, I could see why diodes are needed on the outputs when driving the coils.

With key on, engine not running, the outputs are sitting at 0.5v, which is enough to turn on the ignition transistors inside the coils. Adding diodes on the outputs drops the signals enough to prevent this.

 

I have the diodes installed and when I was having a code read and deleted the other day form the ecu . The ignition needs to be on but the car not running. The next day I was driving along and 1 cylinder went dead. After getting home I was able to check everything and I had lost a coil. If you have any suggestions John J&S, please let me know. Rich

 

Precisely..we noted that too.

Unfortunately, although the diodes will protect the coils during normal running conditions, there is apparently enough current at KOEO (key on engine off) to still damage the coils if left long enough.

Prior to the diode trick, coils were frying even when the car runs. With diodes, that does not happen when the engine is running, but can still happen with the KOEO position. SO its important to never leave your key in this position with engine off.

If needed, like to install stereo equipment, or for testing, you can alway just unplug the ignition harness from the eManage while doing any type of diagnosis testing that requires KOEO.

Hope that helps.

 

Sharif, Thanks

 

Greddy is relying on an NPN to pull the pullup resistor to ground, and it doesn't.

They should change the drivers to P channel MOSFET's, like we did.

 

hehe....good lucking getting Greddy to improve or R&D any of this stuff. They need some smart guys like you on their payroll.

 

Hell, if you get get them to call you back is almost a miracle. I got with my kit a defective oil pan ( it had some bubbles in the casting) that leaked when oil was added. I called 10 times left messages for Kenji with no response. I gave up. I have tried to fill the holes the best I can. It is working so far. It sucks to always be looking for a leak though. Rich

 

Add me to the list....
ATI procharged for 9k miles then lost cylinder 6

I have perfect compression in cyl 1-5 (185psi) and 145psi in 6

The spark plug in 6 had its ground strap smashed onto its electrode and now the motor makes a tapping sound (probably bent valves).

 

that's not really "blown" more like damaged

 

It seems repairable, but I won't know the damage until I tear into it.

Either way, I thought it was interesting that yet another cylinder 6 mishap occured.

 

Seems like back when people were grenading motors due to the ems that were available, no matter the application.(TT,ST,S/C) Seems like now with utec/fcon etc, and good tuners like FP and GTM, are life expectancy is longer. Just my 2 pennies.

 

I agree since my car was tuned with the FMU that has no timing control.

 

There is a good chance part of the ringland broke off and hit the spark plug . If so , a rebuild will be in order . I seen a ProCharger that had a tick to the motor . They tore it down and the thing was fcking bad . Every cyl. had detonation damage and one cyl. had the ringland broke off .
When mine went like that , the chuck broke off and got lodged in the valve and bent it .

 

What is a "chuck"?

Did that motor that was all messed up show any signs of detonation on its spark plugs?