Pathfinder VQ35DE vs. 350Z/G35 VQ35DE. The thread to end all threads!
11-02-2010, 03:11 PM
#24
Pretty sure the tranny wont bolt up to a pathfinder block and the block itself is also taller than the Z block. I looked into this swap and it would be more problems than it is worth with a TT kit, I also doubt your mounting bracket for the Vortech kit will work 
. This will not be a direct bolt in like you think...let us know how it goes and what it takes 
. This will not be a direct bolt in like you think...let us know how it goes and what it takes
11-02-2010, 03:32 PM
#25
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I purchased an used VQ35DE from a 2004 Pathfinder for a whole $100 today. It overheated and lost compression on some cylinders according to the person who sold it to me, maybe it bent a head or blew a headgasket...I don't know. All I want it the block and crank.
Can a Pathfinder VQ be used in a G35/350Z? That is the question I want to help answer.
I have both of the side by side and to begin, it's pretty obvious that both blocks began life in the same identical mold. The machining process is what changes between one and the other and here they are:
Change 1 of 2:
Here you can see that one of the threaded holes that the G/Z block has was sliced off for the pathfinder. Probably to make room for an accessory. The good news is that I believe the G/Z doesn't seem to use this threaded hole anyways ( mine is all dirty as if there never was a bolt in it and I can't remember removing one ) so it's not an issue.
THIS is the real issue...Change 2 of 2:
The dipstick is in a totally different place. The area where the dipstick goes on the G/Z is covered as if it was never machined ( because it wasn't ) and this is where the pathfinder has it:
The only easy solution I can think of is to plug off the pathfinder dipstick tube and simply not run a dipstick at all. Whether I'm up for this or not I'm not sure...I never really check my oil and I know my car takes exactly 6 quarts ( I have a spacer ).So...what do you guys think? Everything else is the same on the block. The rest of the engine it very different though so I'd have to swap just about everything from my block to this one.
EDIT: I mistakenly thought the dipstick went into the block and it actually goes into the head and THEN the block. If I swap my heads over I should have no problems using the pathfinder block on my car.
Can a Pathfinder VQ be used in a G35/350Z? That is the question I want to help answer.
I have both of the side by side and to begin, it's pretty obvious that both blocks began life in the same identical mold. The machining process is what changes between one and the other and here they are:
Change 1 of 2:
Here you can see that one of the threaded holes that the G/Z block has was sliced off for the pathfinder. Probably to make room for an accessory. The good news is that I believe the G/Z doesn't seem to use this threaded hole anyways ( mine is all dirty as if there never was a bolt in it and I can't remember removing one ) so it's not an issue.
THIS is the real issue...Change 2 of 2:
The dipstick is in a totally different place. The area where the dipstick goes on the G/Z is covered as if it was never machined ( because it wasn't ) and this is where the pathfinder has it:
The only easy solution I can think of is to plug off the pathfinder dipstick tube and simply not run a dipstick at all. Whether I'm up for this or not I'm not sure...I never really check my oil and I know my car takes exactly 6 quarts ( I have a spacer ).So...what do you guys think? Everything else is the same on the block. The rest of the engine it very different though so I'd have to swap just about everything from my block to this one.
EDIT: I mistakenly thought the dipstick went into the block and it actually goes into the head and THEN the block. If I swap my heads over I should have no problems using the pathfinder block on my car.
11-02-2010, 04:23 PM
#27
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Pretty sure the tranny wont bolt up to a pathfinder block and the block itself is also taller than the Z block. I looked into this swap and it would be more problems than it is worth with a TT kit, I also doubt your mounting bracket for the Vortech kit will work . This will not be a direct bolt in like you think...let us know how it goes and what it takes
. This will not be a direct bolt in like you think...let us know how it goes and what it takes 
11-02-2010, 08:37 PM
#31
in all honesty, sell that block and pick up the correct version of the vq that you need. certain blocks require different heads, and parts (revup, de, etc.) im too lazy too read the entire thread, but if you have 2 cam sensors in the back then you have a de, and you can find de blocks for pennies. revups are a bit more expensive but if your talking about building a motor, dont cut any corners as stated above. cant be brave and have a budget with a nissan, wont work here. bad ideas are dsm tested, honda approved, and always rejected. do it right.
Last edited by bbs350z; 11-02-2010 at 08:42 PM.
11-02-2010, 08:46 PM
#32
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in all honesty, sell that block and pick up the correct version of the vq that you need. certain blocks require different heads, and parts (revup, de, etc.) im too lazy too read the entire thread, but if you have 2 cam sensors in the back then you have a de, and you can find de blocks for pennies. revups are a bit more expensive but if your talking about building a motor, dont cut any corners as stated above. cant be brave and have a budget with a nissan, wont work here. bad ideas are dsm tested, honda approved, and always rejected. do it right.
FWIW, the cheapest engine I've found so far locally has been well over $1000. I have yet to find a block for pennies.
I'm sorry if I sound kinda harsh, but I sometimes wonder why people tend to be so negative in this forum. It's kinda depressing how everyone is so quick to dismiss anything that doesn't involve throwing $10K at an engine and having a "professional" work on it.
Last edited by GT-ER; 11-02-2010 at 08:56 PM.
11-03-2010, 04:22 AM
#33
Please read the entire thread. I made a mistake in thinking that one of the problems was actually a problem. THE BLOCKS ARE CAST IDENTICALLY. The only difference is the machining done to fit a dipstick tube for the pathfinder ( which can be plugged, no biggie ) and a part that has a threaded hole is machined off for the pathfinder but the G/Z doesn't use it anyways so it's irrelevant. Everything else will just swap from one engine to the other.
FWIW, the cheapest engine I've found so far locally has been well over $1000. I have yet to find a block for pennies.
I'm sorry if I sound kinda harsh, but I sometimes wonder why people tend to be so negative in this forum. It's kinda depressing how everyone is so quick to dismiss anything that doesn't involve throwing $10K at an engine and having a "professional" work on it.
FWIW, the cheapest engine I've found so far locally has been well over $1000. I have yet to find a block for pennies.
I'm sorry if I sound kinda harsh, but I sometimes wonder why people tend to be so negative in this forum. It's kinda depressing how everyone is so quick to dismiss anything that doesn't involve throwing $10K at an engine and having a "professional" work on it.
I am by no means being negative when I say you are setting yourself up for problems. I have read almost all of your threads and you have had numerous problems. Throughout your threads, you have expressed how you are on your own and how this is your DD and you can't afford to be down for long periods of time.
With those two things in mind, the route you are choosing may be no different than the last. I would at least recommend you send the block to a shop, in the US if need be, and get the short block inspected and built professionally.
Do you plan to get the block cleaned, inspected, bored/straightened and decked locally at least?
11-03-2010, 05:41 AM
#34
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For the most part you get this because there are numerous people who have taken short cuts and paid the price in the end, myself included.
I am by no means being negative when I say you are setting yourself up for problems. I have read almost all of your threads and you have had numerous problems. Throughout your threads, you have expressed how you are on your own and how this is your DD and you can't afford to be down for long periods of time.
With those two things in mind, the route you are choosing may be no different than the last. I would at least recommend you send the block to a shop, in the US if need be, and get the short block inspected and built professionally.
Do you plan to get the block cleaned, inspected, bored/straightened and decked locally at least?
I am by no means being negative when I say you are setting yourself up for problems. I have read almost all of your threads and you have had numerous problems. Throughout your threads, you have expressed how you are on your own and how this is your DD and you can't afford to be down for long periods of time.
With those two things in mind, the route you are choosing may be no different than the last. I would at least recommend you send the block to a shop, in the US if need be, and get the short block inspected and built professionally.
Do you plan to get the block cleaned, inspected, bored/straightened and decked locally at least?
I DO plan on getting the block and heads to a machine shop so that they may clean and inspect it. I'm also planning on going with oversized pistons so they will need to bore it.
I will not however let anyone build my engine for me. 80% of the fun in modifying your car is doing it yourself, the other 20% is driving it. It has never even crossed my mind letting someone else take the fun away from me.
Heck, I can't believe that NO ONE seems to care that you can use a dirt cheap pathfinder block in the case that the G/Z one blows.
Last edited by GT-ER; 11-03-2010 at 05:48 AM.
11-03-2010, 07:01 AM
#35
i tend to agree that this block alternative would make more sense if it was being attempted by an industry professional who knows everything they are looking at. it does seem a little risky for a DIY project by someone who clearly doesnt have a lot of experience.
however, if it works out without a hitch, then thats great and now everyone who might want to know the answer to this will know... which I dont think is many people.
if it doesnt work, you are gonna cost yourself a **** ton of money. there are a lot of things i would be looking at on that block that are too difficult to even explain or type to verify its compatability. you believe that its the same identical casting, which may be true, but i believe you may not know that the casting process makes it extremely easy for them to have alternate versions that look very alike by swapping out sections of the mold.
however, if it works out without a hitch, then thats great and now everyone who might want to know the answer to this will know... which I dont think is many people.
if it doesnt work, you are gonna cost yourself a **** ton of money. there are a lot of things i would be looking at on that block that are too difficult to even explain or type to verify its compatability. you believe that its the same identical casting, which may be true, but i believe you may not know that the casting process makes it extremely easy for them to have alternate versions that look very alike by swapping out sections of the mold.
11-03-2010, 07:13 AM
#36
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I guess being in Puerto Rico it is harder and more expensive to find a block. Here in the states they are a dime a dozen. I guess what everyone is trying to say is that the odds are already against you when building a motor. Even when every precaution is taken and all parts including the block are exactly the right parts, failures still happen and happen pretty frequently.
I have never built my motor but from being on this forum since 2007 I'd say the odds of building a motor and having no major issues is 50/50 at best. You are throwing different variables in there with this Pathfinder block. You are most likely the first to do this so you are venturing into uncharted territory. You may be fine using this block or you may look back on this a year from now and wish you hadn't gone this route. The purpose of a forum is to share information and to learn from others success or failures.
The decision is to spend that $1000 on a tried and true method with a 350Z block or save $900 and go with this Pathfinder block. You may very well be okay but you have prolly put your odds now at 60/40 as you have an unknown or proven variable thrown into the mix. I think the coolant hard line is going to be in the way if you move the dipstick to the passenger side. Since it is a pipe external to the engine you may be able to cut it shorter and make a custom dipstick so you can still check your oil. You also may be able to bend it out of the way.
I have never built my motor but from being on this forum since 2007 I'd say the odds of building a motor and having no major issues is 50/50 at best. You are throwing different variables in there with this Pathfinder block. You are most likely the first to do this so you are venturing into uncharted territory. You may be fine using this block or you may look back on this a year from now and wish you hadn't gone this route. The purpose of a forum is to share information and to learn from others success or failures.
The decision is to spend that $1000 on a tried and true method with a 350Z block or save $900 and go with this Pathfinder block. You may very well be okay but you have prolly put your odds now at 60/40 as you have an unknown or proven variable thrown into the mix. I think the coolant hard line is going to be in the way if you move the dipstick to the passenger side. Since it is a pipe external to the engine you may be able to cut it shorter and make a custom dipstick so you can still check your oil. You also may be able to bend it out of the way.
11-03-2010, 07:32 AM
#37
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I guess being in Puerto Rico it is harder and more expensive to find a block. Here in the states they are a dime a dozen. I guess what everyone is trying to say is that the odds are already against you when building a motor. Even when every precaution is taken and all parts including the block are exactly the right parts, failures still happen and happen pretty frequently.
I have never built my motor but from being on this forum since 2007 I'd say the odds of building a motor and having no major issues is 50/50 at best. You are throwing different variables in there with this Pathfinder block. You are most likely the first to do this so you are venturing into uncharted territory. You may be fine using this block or you may look back on this a year from now and wish you hadn't gone this route. The purpose of a forum is to share information and to learn from others success or failures.
The decision is to spend that $1000 on a tried and true method with a 350Z block or save $900 and go with this Pathfinder block. You may very well be okay but you have prolly put your odds now at 60/40 as you have an unknown or proven variable thrown into the mix. I think the coolant hard line is going to be in the way if you move the dipstick to the passenger side. Since it is a pipe external to the engine you may be able to cut it shorter and make a custom dipstick so you can still check your oil. You also may be able to bend it out of the way.
I have never built my motor but from being on this forum since 2007 I'd say the odds of building a motor and having no major issues is 50/50 at best. You are throwing different variables in there with this Pathfinder block. You are most likely the first to do this so you are venturing into uncharted territory. You may be fine using this block or you may look back on this a year from now and wish you hadn't gone this route. The purpose of a forum is to share information and to learn from others success or failures.
The decision is to spend that $1000 on a tried and true method with a 350Z block or save $900 and go with this Pathfinder block. You may very well be okay but you have prolly put your odds now at 60/40 as you have an unknown or proven variable thrown into the mix. I think the coolant hard line is going to be in the way if you move the dipstick to the passenger side. Since it is a pipe external to the engine you may be able to cut it shorter and make a custom dipstick so you can still check your oil. You also may be able to bend it out of the way.
Why would I move the dipstick to the passenger side? The dipstick is going to be in the OEM location.
Anyways, there are tons of engines here...but people sell them as if they were made of freaking gold! I even saw one for $1800.
On ebay they are also very expensive and with shipping it puts them in the realm of impossible to have down here.What I'm saying is that I find it kinda sad how few people in this forum dare to deviate from anything that a VENDOR will state. Vendors OWN this forum, and while that's not necessarily BAD, it's also not a good thing because parts for out cars will always remain stupid expensive because of it. People should be more inventive, especially now that these cars are getting cheaper and cheaper.
Last edited by GT-ER; 11-03-2010 at 07:33 AM.
11-03-2010, 07:43 AM
#38
if it doesnt work, you are gonna cost yourself a **** ton of money. there are a lot of things i would be looking at on that block that are too difficult to even explain or type to verify its compatability. you believe that its the same identical casting, which may be true, but i believe you may not know that the casting process makes it extremely easy for them to have alternate versions that look very alike by swapping out sections of the mold.
Seeing as how the VQ35 was in numerous other cars, I wouldn't take the risk of something being different. There could be small changes like oil passage diameter and routing that could make a difference.
Last edited by Quamen; 11-03-2010 at 10:58 AM.
11-03-2010, 10:53 AM
#39
Why would I move the dipstick to the passenger side? The dipstick is going to be in the OEM location.
Anyways, there are tons of engines here...but people sell them as if they were made of freaking gold! I even saw one for $1800. On ebay they are also very expensive and with shipping it puts them in the realm of impossible to have down here.
What I'm saying is that I find it kinda sad how few people in this forum dare to deviate from anything that a VENDOR will state. Vendors OWN this forum, and while that's not necessarily BAD, it's also not a good thing because parts for out cars will always remain stupid expensive because of it. People should be more inventive, especially now that these cars are getting cheaper and cheaper.
Anyways, there are tons of engines here...but people sell them as if they were made of freaking gold! I even saw one for $1800.
On ebay they are also very expensive and with shipping it puts them in the realm of impossible to have down here.What I'm saying is that I find it kinda sad how few people in this forum dare to deviate from anything that a VENDOR will state. Vendors OWN this forum, and while that's not necessarily BAD, it's also not a good thing because parts for out cars will always remain stupid expensive because of it. People should be more inventive, especially now that these cars are getting cheaper and cheaper.