I disassembled both my G engine and my pathfinder engine yesterday at the same time. The problem is that I placed all the main caps together from both engines and now I have no idea which cap is from what block.

Does it really even matter as long as it goes in smoothly and the crank spins smoothly? The FSM says that the cap is machined at the same time the block is and that it cannot be replaced as a single part.

Thoughts? I haven't thrown away any of the caps, but I just need to know how to tell one from the other.

 

If you cant figure out which ones are which it is possible to have the crank journals line bored/honed but that might not bring everything into spec.

 

Are they at least in order?

Best bet would be to install one set in one block and plastigauge the mains. As long as they are all within spec then use them. Check for a smooth match at the mating line of the bearing surface on the caps. Assuming they are line-bored from the factory and this is why they shouldn't be switched, you might be able to see which ones fit perfectly and which don't, although I'd guess they would both be so close you wouldn't be able to discern a difference.

 

I guess I can just test fit all the caps in the block and the proper cap should make the bore ultra smooth where the block meets the cap. If they are both ultra smooth then I guess it really should make a difference. Just thinking....

 

They have numbers and arrows so the order is not a problem. Just figuring out which cap is from what block.

 

GT-ER I am not an engine builder, but several of my friends do rebuild chevy V-8 engines (I know diff. platform), when they disassemble main bearings they kept track of where each bolt, bearing sleeve, and cap came from. I am pretty sure it matters!

 

I would still platiguage them to the crank and verify proper fitment. Your finger will not be able to detect differences to the extent of the tolerances the parts were made to.

 

Or a bore micrometer?

 

A bore guage might help but in the end you are going to have to plastiguage the crank to bearing clearance anyways to verify all the clearances.

 

That's easy enough to do. I'll do that.