Cosworth + CJ Stage 0 RFS Setup
After trawling the web for different ideas for a RFS setup I decided to use the CJ Stage 0 combined with the cosworth rail kit. The reason I did this was that I wanted to retain the factory hard-line and have the regulator sit in a different position than on the firewall wall due to the reported noises when mounted here. The cosworth kit has a nice distribution block that allows this. My car is a ST setup so having a bunch of fuel lines near the cross over pipe is not the best idea either. For the reg I made a custom aluminium bracket which uses two of the exisitng points on the plenum and this location also allowed an easy access to a vacuum source.
The standard stage 0 from the CJ kit was the perfect length for the location I wanted. My only concern with the CJ return line is it is very stiff (due to the extra rubber protection) and for the life of me I do not know how other owners manage to get a 90 degree bend from the fuel pump return fitting down between the tank and the chassis to be run under the car. Even if you manage to get it all hooked up this would apply too much pressure/resistance to the fitting so I opted to use a 180 U joiner which relieved most of the stress in the line. Once the return line is under the car you can bore out the oem hard-line fuel hose brackets to accept the additional line as others have done.
For the return lines off the rails I have seen some posts of owners running the lines through the timing cover and back around but with some additional fittings I could run the lines on the back side of the timing cover to the regulator.
I have attached some pictures below of the install for reference.














The standard stage 0 from the CJ kit was the perfect length for the location I wanted. My only concern with the CJ return line is it is very stiff (due to the extra rubber protection) and for the life of me I do not know how other owners manage to get a 90 degree bend from the fuel pump return fitting down between the tank and the chassis to be run under the car. Even if you manage to get it all hooked up this would apply too much pressure/resistance to the fitting so I opted to use a 180 U joiner which relieved most of the stress in the line. Once the return line is under the car you can bore out the oem hard-line fuel hose brackets to accept the additional line as others have done.
For the return lines off the rails I have seen some posts of owners running the lines through the timing cover and back around but with some additional fittings I could run the lines on the back side of the timing cover to the regulator.
I have attached some pictures below of the install for reference.














Last edited by MR RIZK; Oct 8, 2014 at 05:13 AM.
Just made the bracket at home. Nothing fancy. The best part of the RFS installation was that I got to replace my fuel level sendor. After 3 years I now have a fuel gauge again..
Looks good. I also chose to mount the FPR to the IM (modified OEM rails though), and I used hard lines:
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031246.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031257.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031246.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031257.jpg
Thanks guys, In reality I should have just used the oem rails as Boosted did which would have saved me some $$$ but time is not always on my side. Pez the fittings are a combination of earls and speedflow as some of the fittings are not available from earls.
Trending Topics
Great setup man! I like it. FYI its not exactly the rubber coating that makes our return line resistent to bending, its just the stiff nature of teflon hose. You will find that after it has been installed and used for a short time, it rather conforms to its new position and the tension goes away. It will actually reform much of its installed shape if you were to remove it and set it on a bench.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350Z_Al
Exterior & Interior
133
Oct 29, 2020 07:44 PM




