JDM Joe's HR Build
the money you save by dumping (and or replace with equal yet more economical options) the boost controller, samco hoses, stillen oil cooler, greddy catch can and gtm return setup, you could afford the Haltech.
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
I was thinking the same thing. It's certainly an interesting build list with some unusual choices. Hence why I'm curious about what the power goals are for this setup.
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the money you save by dumping (and or replace with equal yet more economical options) the boost controller, samco hoses, stillen oil cooler, greddy catch can and gtm return setup, you could afford the Haltech.
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
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Howard from Technosquare who is my engine builder recommended I use the standard ARP's. How much power have the standard ARP head studs been tested up to? Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought people used these on 700whp engines without much issues?
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I plan on getting a retune with Haltech later down the line and hopefully make 650-700whp on DJ with a more advanced tune. Hopefully I am not being too optimistic 
just sayin, for your goals, and how easily people pop built motors, it doesnt make sense to run a NA centric reflash.
you can use pauter rods for a few hundred cheaper, piece together your own oil cooler for under 200$, since you are getting a twin pump, make your own SS lines for a TON cheaper to custom fit your setup, samco hoses are for looks, standalones used a 50$ boost solenoid so dont need $600 boost controller, put breather on your valve covers for 6$ and skip the catch can..... what's the AEM UEGO for? Uprev cant use aftermarket widebands...
I would never build without L19s, doesnt matter who did what once.
Again, your money your decisions.
you can use pauter rods for a few hundred cheaper, piece together your own oil cooler for under 200$, since you are getting a twin pump, make your own SS lines for a TON cheaper to custom fit your setup, samco hoses are for looks, standalones used a 50$ boost solenoid so dont need $600 boost controller, put breather on your valve covers for 6$ and skip the catch can..... what's the AEM UEGO for? Uprev cant use aftermarket widebands...
I would never build without L19s, doesnt matter who did what once.
Again, your money your decisions.
Last edited by str8dum1; Jan 8, 2011 at 04:24 PM.
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just sayin, for your goals, and how easily people pop built motors, it doesnt make sense to run a NA centric reflash.
you can use pauter rods for a few hundred cheaper, piece together your own oil cooler for under 200$, since you are getting a twin pump, make your own SS lines for a TON cheaper to custom fit your setup, samco hoses are for looks, standalones used a 50$ boost solenoid so dont need $600 boost controller, put breather on your valve covers for 6$ and skip the catch can..... what's the AEM UEGO for? Uprev cant use aftermarket widebands...
I would never build without L19s, doesnt matter who did what once.
Again, your money your decisions.
you can use pauter rods for a few hundred cheaper, piece together your own oil cooler for under 200$, since you are getting a twin pump, make your own SS lines for a TON cheaper to custom fit your setup, samco hoses are for looks, standalones used a 50$ boost solenoid so dont need $600 boost controller, put breather on your valve covers for 6$ and skip the catch can..... what's the AEM UEGO for? Uprev cant use aftermarket widebands...
I would never build without L19s, doesnt matter who did what once.
Again, your money your decisions.
Pauter rods have been proven on DE's but last I heard they don't have rods available for HR's. Certainly, I could have saved money by going the DIY route but I decided to stick with off the shelf brand parts for the most part... I wasn't aware about the Uprev being unable to use aftermarket widebands... Thanks for pointing that out
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I tried to do much research as I can on my own however as you can probably see, I still have a lot to learn. Any recommendations and advice are welcome. Thanks for everyone's inputs!
It was my DD for about 10 months straight before I sold it. Went through 3 sets of tires in those 10 months btw.
I still contend your car wasn't really ever pushed that hard... definitely not hard enough to be use as proof of a strong component. even crappy builds will last 10 months.....
I am really not ripping your car, I think it is/was awesome. My car barely gets driven either, but I am willing to bet it has been pushed harder than you ever pushed yours
the money you save by dumping (and or replace with equal yet more economical options) the boost controller, samco hoses, stillen oil cooler, greddy catch can and gtm return setup, you could afford the Haltech.
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
anyone that tells you that a reflash that has no boost or knock safety is appropriate for a car utilizing twin pumps is crazy
The APS exhaust isn't that bad to be honest. It is no louder than any other turbo exhaust I have seen. If you were running it on a NA set-up with straight pipes that may be a different story. I had straight pipes with a motordyne exhaust before my FI set-up and that was about 5x louder, no joke.
I agree with the other posts, I would def do a standalone. Don't skimp on the vital components. You may have some nice brand name stuff, but you need to make sure you have the entire formula or else it won't matter. I was shocked to see the carrillo rods and then see no standalone.
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with L19's either. For the extra cost, it is well worth the piece of mind. If you are on a tight budget, like Rich said ditch the HKS boost controller, AEM UEGO, stillen oil cooler, defi gauges, and even samco hoses. You will have enough to get the Haltech which is more important IMO.
You can then piece together your own oil cooler for way cheaper. If you want to get silicone hoses, you could get mishimoto which are cheaper. Defi gauges could be replaced by cheaper ones (prosport) for the time being so that you can have enough money to give yourself a solid build. Later down the road you can upgrade these items if you choose. If you go the other route, you may not have a car/motor to upgrade down the road.
Just my .02. Obviously it is your car and your money. You can do what you would like. But most people that give you stern answers on here know what they are talking about, they are speaking from experience and are just trying to save you a headache down the road.
lol sorry for the rant man
The APS exhaust isn't that bad to be honest. It is no louder than any other turbo exhaust I have seen. If you were running it on a NA set-up with straight pipes that may be a different story. I had straight pipes with a motordyne exhaust before my FI set-up and that was about 5x louder, no joke.
I agree with the other posts, I would def do a standalone. Don't skimp on the vital components. You may have some nice brand name stuff, but you need to make sure you have the entire formula or else it won't matter. I was shocked to see the carrillo rods and then see no standalone.
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with L19's either. For the extra cost, it is well worth the piece of mind. If you are on a tight budget, like Rich said ditch the HKS boost controller, AEM UEGO, stillen oil cooler, defi gauges, and even samco hoses. You will have enough to get the Haltech which is more important IMO.
You can then piece together your own oil cooler for way cheaper. If you want to get silicone hoses, you could get mishimoto which are cheaper. Defi gauges could be replaced by cheaper ones (prosport) for the time being so that you can have enough money to give yourself a solid build. Later down the road you can upgrade these items if you choose. If you go the other route, you may not have a car/motor to upgrade down the road.
Just my .02. Obviously it is your car and your money. You can do what you would like. But most people that give you stern answers on here know what they are talking about, they are speaking from experience and are just trying to save you a headache down the road.
lol sorry for the rant man
I agree with the other posts, I would def do a standalone. Don't skimp on the vital components. You may have some nice brand name stuff, but you need to make sure you have the entire formula or else it won't matter. I was shocked to see the carrillo rods and then see no standalone.
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with L19's either. For the extra cost, it is well worth the piece of mind. If you are on a tight budget, like Rich said ditch the HKS boost controller, AEM UEGO, stillen oil cooler, defi gauges, and even samco hoses. You will have enough to get the Haltech which is more important IMO.
You can then piece together your own oil cooler for way cheaper. If you want to get silicone hoses, you could get mishimoto which are cheaper. Defi gauges could be replaced by cheaper ones (prosport) for the time being so that you can have enough money to give yourself a solid build. Later down the road you can upgrade these items if you choose. If you go the other route, you may not have a car/motor to upgrade down the road.
Just my .02. Obviously it is your car and your money. You can do what you would like. But most people that give you stern answers on here know what they are talking about, they are speaking from experience and are just trying to save you a headache down the road.
lol sorry for the rant man
If your trying to save money you could skip the cams. I don't think you need them to reach your power goals. I am making 700+whp with stock cams and upgraded springs on my HR. I had the uprev on my stock TT set up and it worked flawlessly but with the money I spent on the built motor I decided to go with the F-con just to be safe.
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The APS exhaust isn't that bad to be honest. It is no louder than any other turbo exhaust I have seen. If you were running it on a NA set-up with straight pipes that may be a different story. I had straight pipes with a motordyne exhaust before my FI set-up and that was about 5x louder, no joke.
I agree with the other posts, I would def do a standalone. Don't skimp on the vital components. You may have some nice brand name stuff, but you need to make sure you have the entire formula or else it won't matter. I was shocked to see the carrillo rods and then see no standalone.
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with L19's either. For the extra cost, it is well worth the piece of mind. If you are on a tight budget, like Rich said ditch the HKS boost controller, AEM UEGO, stillen oil cooler, defi gauges, and even samco hoses. You will have enough to get the Haltech which is more important IMO.
You can then piece together your own oil cooler for way cheaper. If you want to get silicone hoses, you could get mishimoto which are cheaper. Defi gauges could be replaced by cheaper ones (prosport) for the time being so that you can have enough money to give yourself a solid build. Later down the road you can upgrade these items if you choose. If you go the other route, you may not have a car/motor to upgrade down the road.
Just my .02. Obviously it is your car and your money. You can do what you would like. But most people that give you stern answers on here know what they are talking about, they are speaking from experience and are just trying to save you a headache down the road.
lol sorry for the rant man
I agree with the other posts, I would def do a standalone. Don't skimp on the vital components. You may have some nice brand name stuff, but you need to make sure you have the entire formula or else it won't matter. I was shocked to see the carrillo rods and then see no standalone.
I don't understand why you wouldn't go with L19's either. For the extra cost, it is well worth the piece of mind. If you are on a tight budget, like Rich said ditch the HKS boost controller, AEM UEGO, stillen oil cooler, defi gauges, and even samco hoses. You will have enough to get the Haltech which is more important IMO.
You can then piece together your own oil cooler for way cheaper. If you want to get silicone hoses, you could get mishimoto which are cheaper. Defi gauges could be replaced by cheaper ones (prosport) for the time being so that you can have enough money to give yourself a solid build. Later down the road you can upgrade these items if you choose. If you go the other route, you may not have a car/motor to upgrade down the road.
Just my .02. Obviously it is your car and your money. You can do what you would like. But most people that give you stern answers on here know what they are talking about, they are speaking from experience and are just trying to save you a headache down the road.
lol sorry for the rant man
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If your trying to save money you could skip the cams. I don't think you need them to reach your power goals. I am making 700+whp with stock cams and upgraded springs on my HR. I had the uprev on my stock TT set up and it worked flawlessly but with the money I spent on the built motor I decided to go with the F-con just to be safe.
