deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

ok. i drove it all day today and the cel did not flah anymore. however, i still hear a missfire/sputter only in the rpm range of 2000 -2500 rpms. and it seems to be load dependent. so i thought it was the tune. (a tuner friend of mine drove around smoothing out my partial throttle base fuel map and made some changes). so i switched back to my original map from a few months back when i wasnt having this problem. it didnt change anything. still there.

so, im not quite sure what it is. i do have a starting problem with getting the car to catch and crank over. another car tuner friend of mine said it sounds like my crank angle sensor is on its way out. he apparently has had cars do that on him. so i told him this problem im having with the sputter and missfire. he mentioned it may be my crank angle sensor or my cam angle sensor. i did pull the plugs and it looks to be a clean combustion throughout all 6 cylinders. i played with the coils also, no difference. they all are working properly. the car still makes plenty of power. it runs fine during full throttle. its got me confused.

i did a data log on haltech to see if i could catch it doing anything suspicious. i logged each injector and ign. saw nothing out of the ordinary. im a bit confused on how to read the miss counter. i logged it. it didnt pick up anything that i noticed. however, i feel that if i have a better understanding of how to utilize it, i can try again.

can you guys make any suggestions for me to check things?

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

also, ive been under the impression that my MAF is just an air temp sensor and basically useless other than that since haltech took over. can i safely be ruling this out an a possible source for the problem or should i check it out further?

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

sorry for hijacking your thread btw. i just figured its related somewhat.

any help here guys? thie morning while driving to work it seemed the problem was worse at first, then got a bit better as it warmed up after a bit of driving. but it stil seems as though while under load its perfectly fine.

binder

iTrader: (8)

correct if you are using MAP based tuning (VE)

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

I am tuning off of a map sensor. So ok that rules out the maf for certain then. Hmmm.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

Any specific channels on haltech that I can datalog to try to find something I may be missing? I may even try putting my haltech on a stock g35/350z to rule out the ecu as a problem.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

i just re scanned my ecu for codes and got the following:

p0101 - maf
p0103 - maf
p0011 - intake cam shaft
p0021 - intake cam shaft
p0300 - multiple missfire

pretty much all of my o2 sensors have been dead for the past two years. so that didnt change anything. (shouldnt have run so much leaded race gas, oh well)

the maf code is brand new. it didnt do this a week ago. now, i thought that since im using haltechs internap map sensor to tune, it would render it useless. im thinking im wrong? the cam shaft codes have been on since i installed haltech simply because the stock ecu isnt controlling them any longer. so thats not it. so, sounds like my maf is the problem eh?

binder

iTrader: (8)

just because you aren't tuning with it doesn't mean it can't throw codes. That being said the code is just a code and probably has no impact on anything.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

i wonder why it just now popped up tho. i'll try swapping a maf and seeing what happens. that'd be great if that fixes it. but i dont see how that'd happen.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

This question is for you guys with haltech tuning off of map sensor. If the car is runningand you unplug the mad sensor, do you notice any changes immediately? Sort of like the pulling the coil test while its running.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

Sorry, I meant maf*

Auto correct on android. Whoops.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i'm not sure that's a safe idea. Unplugging and replugging things like that can cause electrical problems and might fry your expensive haltech.

Now unplugging it and starting the car and getting it running is a different thing. Mine has the engine out so i can't test it. I'm thinking the oem ecu would freak out if it didn't have a signal from the maf.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

well i started it up without the maf plugged in and it ran the same as if it were plugged in. just seems weird to me that the maf would play a role in this. so im still skeptical if thats the issue. this weekend im going to try putting the haltech on my fiancees stock g35 to see how that runs. then maybe i'll swap all her coils over to my car and see what happens. then if that doesnt fix, i'll find someone with a maf i can try. and if that doesnt work i'll go through all my electrical; injector clips, etc. any other thoughts that i could be missing?

Jtran Studios

iTrader: (3)

camshaft codes shouldnt be thrown at all even with the haltech. triple check your injector lag time and also double check your transient throttle table also. i would check all the grounds on the motor and make sure they are all tight.

ashtrojan2008

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the haltech outputs Maf info to the factory ecu. Idk what it does but mine isn't happy with the maf unplugged.. Goes immediately lean. The original reason I got the haltech air temp sensor was to do away with the maf, but the only way you can do that is to set up a maf signal output which can only be done if copy through is turned off, and as of right now I'm using copy through in low load ignition timing.
Ross

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

k so i confirmed that i am not using copythough for ignition timing. well, just by looking at my ignition timing map, i have values in every cell which i am pretty sure means copythrough is disabled. according to hal, since im not running copythrough, my maf shouldnt create the missfire. but why the heck did it just recently throw a code? worth a shot to swap with a different one im thinking?

as far as the cam codes, both bank cam codes have been on since i installed haltech. i noticed it, then noticed i was running a different users timing map from here on my350z, so i downloaded the stock 350z base map cam timing and inserted the values. so i figured the reason its still on is because the stock ecu see it, but haltech controls it. so its like, wtf mate.... cel. so i dont believe this to be the problem. but, correct me if im wrong.

i really appreciate the action in this thread. the missfire is a headache. hopefully with everybodys input, both accordfreak and I can fix our missfire problem.


ps; i know how str8dum had the missfire problem with 1.06 firmware and it fixed by going back to 1.0..... i dont have a copy of 1.0 firmware. just 1.04 (missfires) and 1.06. anyone know where i can find an earlier firmware? i figure its worth a shot.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

The 12 volt supply line for the coils also feeds the cam phasing solenoids so your camshaft codes and misfire codes may well be related. Also you might want to recheck/reset the ground connection on that passenger side front frame rail.

There is also a "copy through enabled/disabled" setting in main set up and some option related to whether Haltech copies or fakes the MAF signal I think. I have to keep my MAF connected because I have a 5AT and the TCM needs that input so I've never looked into disabling it.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

great info. i will check that immediately when im off work today. did not know that.

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

so are you saying that since they both share the same power source, a bad cam sensor may be causing the missfire? or that the wiring to the cam sensor that happens to also be the power supply for the ignition coils may be fried somehow. maybe im a little confused with how you said that.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

I was just stating a fact (for my 2004 coupe). I guess I would be monitoring the 12 volt supply line and the ground wire as it enters the last coil on the driver's side. My guess is the underlying issue is either a ground or a power supply wiring issue. The wiring for the coil packs (and cam solenoids) is like a string of christmas lights off a single supply line. I'm not 100% sure about the grounds for each coil pack and solenoid. The only reason I know is that I took that wiring apart to insert a boost-a-spark at one point. There is that capacitor ("condenser") in line with that wiring also (a brown box on the passenger side main harness). Maybe that's blown?

EDIT: If you decide to take the main wiring harness apart on the passenger side (you will have to if you want to try to replace the condenser), there are wire loops in there for a reason I don't fully understand. Just letting you know so you don't go WTF when you open it up and see this white paper with the wire looped inside. I just left that alone after taking a peek.