rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Cheaper to get a "GM style" sensor online. Looks like sensor is ok. Perhaps it is not wired correctly into the harness. Weird. Hal is your man - he can verify where the MAP sensor lead should be attached into the harness.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

given the tested result of the voltages on each pin of the 3 bar map, the wiring should be correct. i'll be trying a different map after work to see what happens.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

I data logged both sensors and overlayed the graph. They're pretty much even! but my afr is still screwed up with the external sensor whereas with the internal one, the afr is fine.

Are there any other settings to look at? those who have the 3bar map, did you just load the default 3 bar map settings and that was it?

datalog.
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rcdash

iTrader: (18)

That is so weird. Does the AFR even out under load? (sorry if I missed that)

Can you manually check to see if your O2 sensor calibrations are the same before and after switching the MAP sensor from internal to external?

binder

iTrader: (8)

I haven't used my gm sensor yet. I had na issue with my haltech input on the external sensor part. I received a new one and the car has been apart so i haven't had a chance to check it. It should not change your bank to bank afr though.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

OK! I went through a bunch of options and turned off the "long term fuel trim" and the car idles fine now!!!!!!! WTF? does the long term fuel trim not like the 3 bar map sensor?

Turning it off made it better but not the greatest still. So I changed the 02 correction settings "max enrichment, max dis-enrichment" to 10%. it made the afr at idle a lot smoother. it's pretty much even. I went into boost and the afr seems to normalize also.

BUT during idle/ acceleration, sometimes the two banks reads off by 2-3 points then normalizes. is that abnormal? It wasn't doing that when i had the internal sensor hooked up. Though, it doesn't cause the engine to hiccup when it does that.

SOFTWARE BUG?????

Does anybody have long term fuel trim with their 3 bar map sensor?????

What is your 02 correction setting like??

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

oh one more thing.. with the 3 bar map sensor, the throttle response time is NIGHT AND DAY! anybody who has the internal sensor hooked up should really consider switching to the external map sensor. the internal sensor is VERY laggy.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

I keep my O2 I think at -5 and +10 because I don't mind it going a little rich (doesn't affect driveability) vs going too lean, which will cause bucking. When you move from cell to cell, you can go from a cell that is tuned too rich, and if you're at your max lean setting (say -20%), then switch to a cell suddenly that is too lean, you'll be basically 40% off your correct fueling momentarily. I would try to tune all the cells so that you are plus or minus 5% in the low load areas (leave the areas greater than -2 psi for your tuner on the dyno or tuning via logs only).

I haven't enabled long term fuel trims - that is a feature in the most recent release... Haltech had an instructional video on it on their website though which might be helpful. I have a feeling based on what that video described that if you have a lot of cell to cell variability (being compensated for by closed loop correction), that feature will cause more havoc than help.

binder

iTrader: (8)

when you say "2-3 points" do you mean .2 and .3 or 2 full a/f points? .2 is nothing but 2 points is a huge difference.

Also, Since day 1 of my haltech the long term fuel trims have always been off. Hal set them to off on my first tune and left them there.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

I used RCdash settings for 02 correction and it seems to be better. thanks!

and yeah 2-3 points. Sometimes when i'm idle/ crusing, the afr on one of the banks leans out 2-3 points for a few seconds, I blip the throttle and it goes back to normal 14.7.

With the internal map sensor i wasn't having any of these partial throttle variety.

I still don't trust driving on it. WOT is always steady at 11.9 afr though.

binder

iTrader: (8)

that's crazy. Maybe build a comletely new map and just insert all your tuning cells into the new map?

that would be the last resort. It can't be an exhaust leak if youre solid at WOT so that is ruled out. IDK what else it could be other than your map going rouge

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Accordfreak, being a couple points off under vacuum sounds like you have a tiny o2 leak at or just upstream of the sensor. This didn't happen with the internal sensor though? Hmmm... Then it sounds like you are reaching a cell that you didn't reach before that may be out of whack. Let me guess, the driver's side is the leaner of the two?


Glad you got the car running fine though.