does it not work becouse I am running windows 7?

 

What do you mean by 'doesnt work'? It should show up as a serial port in your device manager. For example 'COM3'

The only OS that might actually need a driver is Windows 95/98/ME/2000.

 

i was using usb due to no serial port.. i will look for it again..
thanks for your help guys.. this is a totally new world coming from mitsubishi's..

 

Tried again.
No luck.. I have a shortcut on my desktop, but when I click to open it, it just opens the "properties" info.. with tabs on top.. security, general, advanced...Etc.

I re-downloaded the drivers from turbo xs.. did nothing
i downloaded the utec 2.8d.. wont open.. when i troubleshoot it says it is missing parts of the software.. not a good program etc....

i emailed turbo xs about 4 days ago to no avail..

any advice?

 

you have to make the usb port a com port with the drivers that are in the packet that u download throw the turboxs.com site

 

HUGE THANKS! to Skating_Rob.
Got me hooked up.. went for my first monitored run last night..
found my boost guage was off by 4lbs at full boost.. ..

Question: I know that any Knock is bad... but is there an acceptable amount?
I know that with mit's you could have 5kr and run all day long on the motor..
How about with the 35de's?

On each run last night it did register knock. .5% at -8psi..(must have been right when I let off) and then 1% at 15.3 psi.. (this was knock adjust %)

 

Alright.. a few questions for you utec users..
I have gone into the boost map and turned boost down 2 times. It was initially set at 275 accross the board. I first changed it to 250. I went for a run and it did lower from 15.9 to 15.6psi.
I went in and lowered it again to 200. This lowered to boost to 15.2 psi on my last run.. i am just wondering if this sounds correct?

I also noticed that in the user settings, boost control was set to off...??
this doesn't make sense to me.. is that correct?

I will continue to read my manual and understand things.. thanks for your patience as i begin the tuning journey!!

 

HEy 15LB,
have you got the problem figured out yet? Are you in close loop or open? I think you should be in closed-loop mode. But if you are in close loop then with value 200s in the boost map is probably too high? I remember reading that some members said the made about 10psi with the Greddy tt kits.
At what rpm did you reach 15psi? Reason I ask is my setup is at 130 in the boost map and i am making 10lb @5000 rpm. I am trying to increase the boost and don't know when to expect full boost.

 

Nope not yet.. I will have to plug into the utec to double check on the openor closed.. i believe under full throttle it is open.. i reach 15 psi at about 4500 revs or so... but then it keeps creepin up... all i have to reference is my car, but i would imagine that at 5000 you should be at full boost... of course there are variables such as gain adjustments, boost controllers,etc..

 

this is normal.

 

How many times did you read the manual? It will explain what open and closed loop is. How smooth is your cross over point between utec and the sci when you let out of boost?

 

How many times did you read the manual? It will explain what open and closed loop is. How smooth is your cross over point between utec and the ecu when you let out of boost?

*can't edit on mobile. Sorry

 

I have only read the manual 1 time.. Being a business owner and getting time to study don't go hand in hand..
i have no problems coming out of boost.. the only hickup I have is when
it is switching from the ecu to the utec.. get a spot of hesitation..
the only reason i am not sure is becouse I know there is a setting for the open and closed loop in the utec.. and at this point with how messed up things are on the tune etc.. i have no idea what the builder/tuner set it up at without goin in and looking at it.. still waiting to here from a different tuner out of mpls if he will take it on..

 

Since it's a piggyback that has a transition from ecu to piggyback when going into boost there are a lot of people on here that have that hesitation at that point. I think it just takes time working with the map to get it working well. I would help but i haven't used a utec at all.

There should be some users in the tuning section that have experience with it. Str8dum1 has a lot of experience with it.

 

that transition hesitation is known occurrence. a little tweaking around those cells can help, but it will never be 100%. Drawback to a piggyback setup.

 

understandable.. but I have read and been told it is still preffered to a stand alone system overall... for overall drivability that is.. Agreed or no?
(remember- I am over 3.5 hrs from a tuner!)

 

never, whoever said that is trying to make their car sound like it's the best. If it was better than a standalone then they would be more expensive.

standalones are always better. 100% control over everything the engine does is the best thing.

 

I didn't have any transitional issues when I had a UTEC going into boost. By adjusting the transition delay values and left column open loop params you can usually work that out completely.

The issue I had was a misfire coming out of boost...and everyone I've known with a UTEC has this whether they realize it or not. Since it only happens during hard shifts it didn't bother me much. I put the transition at 3psi so it was alot harder to trigger accidentally (passing on the freeway for example).

 

YES! that is why I am getting intermitant misfire codes! GREAT TO KNOW!
Thanks,.. Its been driving me nutz tryin to research-etc.. was watching that other guys post on misfires.. freakin out over here!! haha

 

I never got any misfire codes, ever. A misfire code indicates a fundamental problem with your tune or setup.

Some people will say misfire codes are 'normal' on an FI'd VQ... the real issue is that crappy tuning is the 'norm'.