Another Powerlab install
#22
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Op no offense but this install seems like it might have been a bit much for you, I was the very first home installer of the powerlab kit and because of that and my DIY thread I get tons of PMs about installing and most people say they have the wrong parts when clearly they just installed stuff wrong.
Powerlab does have a big issue with a pretty much useless manual. Outside of that it almost every problem someone has sent me has been due to installer error.
The z is known for having a miss fire at idle. I fixed it by removing that code from my ecu so it no longer throws a code.
Powerlab does have a big issue with a pretty much useless manual. Outside of that it almost every problem someone has sent me has been due to installer error.
The z is known for having a miss fire at idle. I fixed it by removing that code from my ecu so it no longer throws a code.
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#23
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As for the clamp not fitting the wastegate. Did you compress the spring inside the wastegate? The clamp WILL NOT fit unless the wastegate is fully compressed so the piping sits flush with not the inner ring but the outer ring.
A common thing most people miss who pm me.
A common thing most people miss who pm me.
#24
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No offense taken. I actually haven't thrown a CEl in weeks now, it comes for a day, and actually goes just as quickly. Im unsure if that is normal, but since the car is running great (checked by mechanics) ill leave it be. I didn't install the wrong parts, but I could see how its possible since they aren't really marked in the packages. I wish I had kept the pic of when I first tried to install the wastegate recirc, which has no spring btw. The wastegate/crossover pipe has to be compressed. I actually took the wastegate off the car and spent 20 mins trying to get it to fit before I decided the clamp itself wasn't wide enough. I then took a pic and emailed intense, never to hear about it again. A few months later I decided to take some metal off and get it done that way. I understand there are fitment issues, and ill live with it since its already in the car.
Last edited by woody03; 01-04-2012 at 02:50 AM.
#26
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Problem with the misfire code is it won't always throw a light but it almost always shows up on a reader.
When cars throw codes it doesn't always kick a light.
Only issue with having that code show up is if you need to do state inspection and they check for thrown codes, it will show up. Even if it never threw a light. I could drive 20-30 minutes before my car would throw the code (without the light on the dash) you could only see it with a code reader, enough of an issue to make me fail emissions if I were to try.
When cars throw codes it doesn't always kick a light.
Only issue with having that code show up is if you need to do state inspection and they check for thrown codes, it will show up. Even if it never threw a light. I could drive 20-30 minutes before my car would throw the code (without the light on the dash) you could only see it with a code reader, enough of an issue to make me fail emissions if I were to try.
#27
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I installed my powerlab kit on my 06 350z last september and my car has been at the tuner for over 7 months because of all the issues we have been having with this kit. Intense Motorsports screwed me bigtime from forgetting parts completely to fabrication errors such as mismatched v band flanges and my MAF flange being welded in backwards (which i had to pay to have rewelded the correct way) to sending me a faulty UTEC. I have sorted out all these problems and am now running OSIRIS UPREV for engine management. The one problem we can not figure out still is i am burning oil bad and have blue smoke belching out the tailpipe. The instructions included with this kit were a joke and i am second guessing the hook up of the pcv hose and what to do with the two bungs in the charge piping (one after the MAF before the throttle body and one just after the air filter and before the compressor side of the turbo). As of now i have a long section of hose coming from the hose that used to go right into the z tube on the bottom side after the MAF going through the snout and into the bung just after the filter before the compressor side. I have plugged the bung on the bottom side of the charge pipe after the MAF and BOV. Does this sound right? We have compression tested the engine and all is perfect there. The car seems to run fine idling at stoich A/F and sounds good but the oil burning problem is keeping us from throwing the car on the dyno. PLEASE HELP!!!
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#28
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my posts in this thread are HILARIOUS at this point.. i forgot all about this thread.. i thought it was new when i just clicked on it haha.
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WRT
"As of now i have a long section of hose coming from the hose that used to go right into the z tube on the bottom side after the MAF going through the snout and into the bung just after the filter before the compressor side."
That part sounds right, Same as the MTM setup. This hose simply connects the breather port from the rear of the drivers side valve cover to filtered atmosphere.
Can't tell you what that extra port between MAF and TB was for. On an ST setup ,this will be under pressure but will not see adequate vacuum when the TB is closed . So you would not want plumb your PCV there.
How do you currently have the PCV plumbed?
If you do not have a catch can then the PCV should simply plumb back into the manifold port (front 3/8th) just like stock.
"As of now i have a long section of hose coming from the hose that used to go right into the z tube on the bottom side after the MAF going through the snout and into the bung just after the filter before the compressor side."
That part sounds right, Same as the MTM setup. This hose simply connects the breather port from the rear of the drivers side valve cover to filtered atmosphere.
Can't tell you what that extra port between MAF and TB was for. On an ST setup ,this will be under pressure but will not see adequate vacuum when the TB is closed . So you would not want plumb your PCV there.
How do you currently have the PCV plumbed?
If you do not have a catch can then the PCV should simply plumb back into the manifold port (front 3/8th) just like stock.
#31
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HAHA, another update. Powerlab did send me a coolant reservoir tank.....however they sent no brackets. This is the kind of service I have come to expect from this company. I am pleased just to have an actual reservoir, and to be able to remove the 20oz fanta bottle I had been using. I simply cut some aluminum and drilled holes to make my own brackets. Look and works fine. IDK if its my luck or what, but two weeks after I got the reservoir, the plastic connection in the cap broke off. I shoved a brass 90 degree connector in there and it has worked well. Does anyone else have issues like the ones I have mentioned in this thread?
#32
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You should be as close to stoich as possible at idle, 14.7.
Do you still have your cats on? I doubt it as your pl kit should have came with 3 bungs on your downpipe for the sensors. So running without cats will throw a code after a couple of days too.
That extra bung after your maf may be for a water/meth injector or for an ait temp guage sensor. Wish I had that one already on mine..lol.
Do you still have your cats on? I doubt it as your pl kit should have came with 3 bungs on your downpipe for the sensors. So running without cats will throw a code after a couple of days too.
That extra bung after your maf may be for a water/meth injector or for an ait temp guage sensor. Wish I had that one already on mine..lol.
Last edited by TopgunZ; 11-05-2012 at 10:58 AM.
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