Dying baby seal tears fuel my car.

 

^ would be interesting to see a teardown when you move on. wonder i those rods look like limp dicks by now.

 

NSX's are awesome.

http://scienceofspeed.com/products/NSX/

with the headlight conversion and twins they are awesome.

 

... Rich, Gord and Alberto can join the club too. Jason as well... and many others I am afraid

 

Possibly the funniest line I've ever read in this forum. Nice!!

 

so, since jason (blackbird) lives somewhat close to me in indiana i'm pondering snatching that build block up and using it. I hate dropping more cash into this car but these last few days i've thought about getting rid of the car to buy another and it makes me sick to my stomach.

If my car would just vanish and the nsx go into my garage i'd be down for it, but the process of selling and buying another car is just horrible. I hated trying to find my car when i purchased it 6 years ago.

I'm going to decide by the weekend and if i snag the engine then i'll be parting all the new stuff from my current built block.

 

For the record I never blew up an engine , my car was just cursed by electrical demons

 

i wonder if your experience could lend itself as evidence to something i always thought didnt seem like the best idea... putting that much torque on the stock aluminum head stud threads with the l19 studs?

i never liked the idea of it, i went with half inch studs myself. i felt a lot better torquing those to around 100lb with the greater bite in the block.

so many guys have used the L19 at high torque... i was just lately coming around to the idea of them. but now i might go back to being hesitant about recommending them. perhaps they hold up pretty long term when left undisturbed, but not so much after more than 1 torque cycle?

 

A couple of things went wrong with these charles. The original machinist didn't use any type of antiseize on the threads going into the aluminum. Steel into aluminum is a recipe for disaster over a prolonged period. The machinist also torqued the studs into the block. They are supposed to be lightly tightened and the torque goes on the nut when putting the head on.

When i removed them some of the head studs would not come out at all so i had to use a breaker bar to get them out. They were definitely seized into the block hardcore. No way around it though because i had to get them out to have the block machined. These studs have been in for almost 3 years now.

I'm scared as hell to re-torque in the new block i have coming. I might do 85ftlbs. I'm pretty sure i only used 90ftlbs on them last time i had to remove the heads to do a gasket change.

charles, i need a paypal and list of all the junk i need to buy for these new rails. I think you said i have to buy some parts directly from nissan or something? can you please pm me with a list and a total price all in 1 so i can just pay for it and have it done with. Thanks!

Jeff

 

charles, just as an FYI the new threads i cut in the block for the helicoil were 1/2" threads and they pulled out also. This is why i can't have it machined for 1/2" studs now.

I'm pretty sure the head bolts being seized in the block damaged it pretty good.

 

I am sure they have a nice bow to them, i bet it lowers my compression though if my 3.8L works this time I might tear it down just to see

 

Aren't you suppose to use moly grease or 30w oil on the threads of the head studs? I'm really sorry, but assembly errors are not the fault of the VQ. And actually the cast aluminum I found to be very strong, especially the heads, except US made VQs which seems softer.

 

I torqued them down and took them off about three times without any problem.

 

you use molybdenum on theads for the nuts, not the threads that go into the block.

whenever you mix aluminum and steel with fasteners they will seize together if an antiseize component isn't used.

 

That's quite a bit different than torquing them and running the engine for years with it heatind and cooling and the forces the combustion chamber puts on it.

There is quite a bit more force on those studs when the engine is firing due to combustion forces compared to when it's just sitting torqued down. That i think has a big impact.

 

I drove the car every time between those three times.

 

didnt you drive it less than 1,000 miles tho total?

 

sounds like someone didnt install the l19's in correctly

 

No, around 4k mile.

 

ic, well, i'm not really on board with the "cycling" being an issue with metal fatigue. I guess it could happen but you would have to cycle them a lot so i'm not really going to worry about it.



Exactly, **** part is that since they were put in 2 years ago there is no way the shop is going to take credit for screwing them up so it all falls on me.