Have you read about the Denos Iridiums cermaic cracking lately on our imports?

I was leaning towards them till reading that.

I never shift past 6500, the raised rev limiter was part of the program, I went there for the timing, fuel and shift points. I would never rev my engine to 7k. I shift in manual mode at 6500 and it's screaming at that rpm saying shift, shift!

 

No I haven't heard about any ceramic issues.
Do you have any links?
Personally I've put 25k on mine , in my truck and they look almost like new. Could be a heat range issue. I run 1 level cooler, and I use WI, which caps any hot spots.

Hum ,now I have heard about installers cracking the ceramic if improperly handled , but for what they cost I treat them like a newborn upon installation. They definately won't handle droppage or mis-aligned socket upon torqueing as well as a physically beefier plug. That that is by design the smaller , harder electrodes improve spark efficiency, whcih is otherwise hard to obtian in a coil over arrangement.

 

Just as a follow up to this...

I would disagree with the above. Fuel pressure most definately should NOT remain constant. At idle, it should be in the low-mid 30 psi range (with the vacuum line connected to the regulator. At "0" psi, it should be in the low mid 40 psi range (it should also hit this same psi number if you disconnect the vacuum tube from teh stock fuel pressure regulator).

Under boost, pressure should increase 1 psi for every psi of boost you are seeing (again, assuming you are not using the DFMU...I am not really familiar with how it works so the above is assuming you are using a traditional means of enrichment).

In any event, can anyone post he diagram of the factory fuel delivery system from the owners manual...I am waiting for mine to come back after lending it out Looking at it in depth will tell you exactly where any potential weak links are.

Thanks!

 

I have a FuelPSI guage hooked to my rail and its always dead center on 50 until it gets below 40deg ambient. On the colder days it runs 53. The pressure never changed from idle through redline (before DFMU install). The stock pump is roughly static at 50psi all the time.

 

 

the manual says your readings are correct:

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK
NOTE:

Use Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit (J-44321) to check fuel pressure.

Do not perform fuel pressure check with system operating. Fuel pressure gauge may indicate
false readings.
1. Release fuel pressure to zero. Refer to EC-53, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" .
2. Install the inline fuel quick disconnected fitting between fuel
damper and injector tube.
3. Connect the fuel pressure test gauge (quick connector adapter
hose) to the inline fuel quick disconnected fitting.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and check for fuel leakage.
5. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.
6. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.

At idling: Approximately 350 kPa (3.57 kg/cm2 , 51 psi)

 

Any idea what car "Z1 Performance" is talking about here?

 

Adam was going to study up on return less fuel systems I.e. our Z's last I heard. Maybe he has, he sounds like he is knowledgeable and at least wants to help like a few others (but not all.)

AnywayZ,

The posts on this beloved forum could fill the National Archives with vast knowledge; but sometimes you have to go back to the basics or KISS.

My car is a 9 lb tuner kit and that has been very clear two pages ago. I said it in a very concise fashion in a 2 page explanation.

Comparing a FMU 7 lb kit to my 9 LB Tuner kit is apples and oranges I don’t have the FMU anymore and wouldn’t wish it on anyone!

A US Engineer, a Japanese Programmer and Victor Reyes a Nissan and JDM part specialists who also goes to all the SEMA events and owns 2 Skylines all told me that I needed a larger fuel pump to run the 9 lbs so I bought one. The same 3 who gave me the advice about the injectors and reflash. Just because they don’t post here doesn’t make their theories wrong. Down in So. Cal they just do stuff and then go race, they don’t post here about why or when and how they just do it and it works, bottom line!

I do not know anyone selling a larger fuel rail but I do take the advice of Engineers and racers and Programmers for Nissan vehicles seriously and it has worked. I also feel that yet another Engineer (Swinke) and an Electician (EJ) are on to something here for the stock kit on a stock car with stock settings! So let’s keep that separate. It has nothing to do with “New SARD Fuel Pump Arrived a day early” which is all I said 3 pages ago lol, you have to laugh, come on! It’s the title of the thread!

I do not know what my A/F is because I introduced some more safety buffers on the intake, exhaust and fuel side before I go flash. I will say this though, on the 10th I am about 99.9 % sure I will be very happy with the outcome and when I post how well it went I am about 99% sure that it will be argued and debated as to why, how etc.
After flash I was 11.5, after adding the buffers and upping the boost I am 12.7 lean, so I will reflash!

Meanwhile back at the ranch I will just be mashing my gas peddle and running low 12's and reading the info here on how or why what I did works lol!

Does that make sense to anyone???

I just didn't wake up one day and say. Hey I think I will do A, B, C and then D.! Yeah that's it that will fix it all!” I am not here to change the FI world or sell anything. In fact please DON’T do what I did, less competition next season!

I talked to Engineers, and Programmers (JDM, and Nissan, and Power Enterprise and Victor Reyes and even THEN I talked to another Z owner who had successfully done this. Then and only then did I choose this route and it works! PERIOD!

This is not directed at anyone in general this is for those who don't know what a fuel rail is (show me a link to one for my car right now and I will buy it before I go flash!)

This is for those that just want their car to run safe with the ATI Kit. Not the "war" people. Lol, us people who don’t have a wide band 02 and taps on our fuel rails!

BTW, I am a Private Investigator/ Custom Protection Officer, Armed Guard and Federal Agency (undisclosed) Officer sometimes all in one month. Does that help? It helps me by stuff to pay you guys to fix it! So keep on keeping on just remember I don’t have a stock ECU, stock injectors, stock fuel pump or even an FMU and maybe it will progress better!

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, give a man an ATI Complete kit bone stock on a bone stock car and tell him "it's safe in it's preset form go redline" and he should come looking for you to beat you upside the head with that fish

Anyways, I think I have said everything I can add to these threads until I get back from TS in January with some A/F and new Dyno numbers! I’m Out!

 

ROFLMAO ........let us know how the new flash turns out.......when i get caught up on my bills, i'll probably be heading down there too

 

Did you get it installed? If so, was it a "big deal" making it work? One last question and I'll shut up! Why did you choose a SARD over a Walbro?

 

No big deal, I just went with what RB Motoring reccomended actually, didn't specify a brand he did.

I heard some negative stuff about Walbro, but it's unverified (at least by me) and I heard it *after* I ordered.

Victor Reyes said it was what I needed and I trusted his advice and that is how it went down.

How is your ride by the way, anything new?

 

Interesting...if it is a setup that stays constant at 50-53 psi, thats the first time I have ever seen such a car....much higher base pressure than I have ever seen from standard car.

Which begs the question - if the stock injectors are 290's (going off memory now), how did Nissan rate these? 99.9% of the time, fuel injectoprs are rated at 43 psi of pressure. Assuming the same can be said for the std units on a 350Z, then at the 53 psi of pressure, they are really more in the 325 cc range. I wonder if I can find out some more info on this tomorrow....

 

Adam,

Do you have a flow bench? I have the stock stuff.

Maybe they are over rated numbers or JDM spec numbers?

Like 287HP, it's just a number, none of us are seeing it at the crank are we?

Let me know.

 

well, all that had to be done was Nissan had to test one that was 287...then i guess they can make the claim

Yes we have a flow bench at our engine builders office...I could easily have them tested, though I think Chebesto might have done this already. I will search for his post.

 

I am talking about the fuel pump flow numbers, I have seen the Injectors flow charts they do anywhere from 270 to 290 max, I have never seen anything over 300 ever.

 

I have a dash mounted FP gauge. Its an Autometer Phantom 2 1/6" electric. I am looking its direction just out of habit part of the time. The only time it changes from the 50 to 53 psi range is right before the DFMU kicks in and slams the pressure on up in to the high 50's through 90 something’s at redline. I have never seen the gauge any lower than maybe, 48psi.

I should video the guages and tach during a run to get a more clear idea of what the FP is through the whole run. Normally I look at the WB-o2 for obvious reasons.

 

What is the noice level; can you hear it in the cockpit? And, what did you hear about Walbro?

Thanks

Happy New Year

G

 

There isn't any noise level I have RT cats with headers and dual exhaust and a blower under my hood with a 2kW stereo system.

Like I said there are posts on other forums that say the Walbro is loud and suffers from early failure. You can find the posts on other forums if you like. I don't believe everything I read, My SARD works, it's not a Walbro so to me it is moot.

Cool?

 

350Zzzz.

We race a 350Z here in Australia & were seeing a pressure drop off at WOT on the longer tracks.
We imported at great cost from Japan a Power Enterprises 255 lph pump.
It turned out to be a Walbro pump packaged up by PE.
Fitting was a drop in replacement with only the wireing in the tank to be modified. No modifications were made to the in tank pressure regulator.
Rail pressure went from 3.4 bar to 4.1 bar. The pump was very noisey (no prob in a race car) & after about 300 miles (all raceing) the pump stopped working. When we removed it it was found to be siezed.
We now use a Nippon Denso pump in the OE intank pump housing
to supply a 3/4 gal swerll tank. From this tank we run a Bosch motorsport pump with the pressure controlled by a Sard regulator

 

That is inline with what I have read from at least four others, the early failure. Thanks for helping.

I had also heard of the P.E. Walbro thing, can't lie about that.