THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

Hello all, New to the forum. Please excuse me if im beating a dead horse but i cant quite find exactly what im looking for. As some of you man know i am swapping a VQ into my Z32. Just had a few Q's. I will be tuning on 93 pump for now and later down the road switch to e85.


Here is a list of "modifications"

VQ35DE
Greddy 18G turbo kit
ARP Hardware
Eagle rods
Mahle pistons
Unknown camshafts
750cc rc injectors
AAM spacer
AAM fuel rails
AAM FPR
Ported heads
Unorthodox Pulleys
HPX MAF
3" dual exhaust with x pipe, no cats, no resonators, no mufflers


Im very familiar with the VG and its power goals at different mod levels. The VQ on the other hand i am completely in the dark. My question is, on pump gas what dyno goal should i be shooting for roughly and what fuel pump (pumps) should i be running. I will be getting a base map from Z1 then driving up for a dyno tune. I will try to answer as many more questions as possible if i have left out any information.

rh_334

iTrader: (2)

This is gonna be bad... But ill try to help ya out. What are your power goals? That will determine injector size, I'm not sure if anyone even makes 750s for a VQ. Id go with BC stage 2 cams and ditch the UR pulleys, stay with stock unless going with a Fluiddamper.

Honestly id suggest deleting or having this thread locked asap and PM some.members around here, I don't mind answering newb.questions via PM but the newb threads get old around here.

Goodluck
Rob

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

I have no set "goal" but for the sake of the thread we will go with 500. The injectors are RC racing SL4-750 http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...esistance/1545 . Im not saying im going to purchase new cams but that i have all the things listed in the list already installed. I am currently in the process of pinpointing the cams. The newb title was only meant in a sense that i am new to this particular forum but just started this thread to have a general discussion on my specific set up. Later I would post the dyno results here so in the future someone with a similar set up could use this as a reference.

Thanks, all replies appreciated

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

500-550whp i dont see what fuel pump you are going with but make sure it its at least 255lph

wait what compression are the pistons?

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you have a return system, I'd go for at least dual 255's or more likely one of the newer 300+lph pumps.

I'd invest in l19 headstuds over the standards, and figure out which head gasket you want. For most people HR hg should be more than enough, which will require some minor block cooling passage modification.


Don't do the orthodox pulleys, they ruin motors. Get a fluid dampener style main pulley or stick to oem.
*Cough* I wouldn't listen to anyone who over looked that *Cough*
Next you'll need a bigger maf housing, as the stock one will bottleneck long before you reach the potential of the HPX sensor.
Skip porting the heads and get a good intake plenum, used cossworth if you can...

I recommend you search more, these are all answers you should be able to figure out on your own if you want to swap the motor into a z32.
Or you could keep the vg30 and save yourself a ton of time and effort, not to mention money. Buy a cd009 and a transmission adapter if you really want the 6 speed. Unless you're NA, in which case sell the thing and buy either a z32tt or a z33.
/thread

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Don't even consider E85 with a single pump and those injectors @500whp. You'll want twin pumps and ID1000's IMO if you want to stay safe. Do it now or else you'll have to completely retune from scratch once you change the parts out.

You also need a fuel return system, and alot more research.

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

I figured i would run dual walbros' unless there was a better option.

Pistons are 8.5:1



Have there been failures in the standard ARP hardware? I dont have the time/funds to just ditch these and pony up for l19's lol. Already has HR head gaskets installed along with all items listed above.

I had planned on ditching the pulleys but was unsure if there was a common aftermarket damper or if i should just stay with the stock one.

Porting/Polishing has already been done along with boring the TB to the limit.

Id rather have the 5 speed from my Z32 as opposed to the 6 speed. I have an adapter plate designed in 3d but not sure how commited i am to making it.

My current Z32 is already TT, Just mixing it up a bit

Im aware that i will need larger injectors and upgraded fuel system. When i said later down the road i meant in a few years, lol.

Since Its a Z32 there is already a return system and I already have SS lines from my VG build.

Research is non stop. Just figured I would make this thread early in my build and post the final results to help aid future Z'ers in the community

Perhaps I should have not put noob in the title, it seems to throw everyone off. I have a very good understanding of mechanics and aspects of performance. Just trying to make the thread as simple as possible so all levels of automotive knowledge could understand and relate.

rh_334

iTrader: (2)

If L19s are to much financially then you shouldn't be building a VQ, maybe you should research some of Cass's builds. A VQ is much less forgiving than a VG, ditch the VQ and stick to what you have/know.

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

When I spoke with Z1 they said the ARP studs would be more than enough for even a 650WHP goal. Im not "building" a VQ. It has already been built with the items listed. Instead of asking you for references on ARP stud failures I will continue to search. I dont understand why you are bashing on me. Im just trying to have a general discussion about the engine which is already built. Sorry if i have offended you, i do not mean to do so in any way. Just trying to get some info thats all.

EDIT: I take it you are running the L19 studs?

rh_334

iTrader: (2)

Is this the engine that came out of a wrecked 350 in Savannah GA? If so it should have L19s in it.

And Z1 was referring to ARP L19s, no one runs standard ARP headstuds because of the failures, well except for S&R, and ask them how that turned out



Yep, my sig is out of date. CP pistons, Pauter rods, L19s, HKS HG, JWT C2s, ACL Bearings etc

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

Only use L19s or better. Give me the name of a person here that said normal ARP hardware is fine. That way I will have someone to pick at all day.

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

I was speaking with a gentleman by the name of Chuck.

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

O it's on LOL. As the gentleman said if that is the same engine it is fully built and you got one heck of a deal. What happened to the car it was taken from?

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

Got compacted and turned into aluminum cans, lol. A local forum member told me I do not have L19's. Do the studs have L19 stamped into the top of the stud or some other numbering/lettering?


EDIT: I promise im not as ignorant as im making myself sound :/

I cant read the stud from the picture but I will look when I get off work.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

How can you ask us to give you a power goal estimate without knowing what cams you have?

Could be 500whp on pump, could be 650, all depends on the cams, the fuel system and the tune.

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I was just looking for a ball park. I will most likely be going with dual walbro's. I didnt mean to come off so ignorant. I am still attempting to determine the origin of the cams.

Once again guys thanks for all the comments, insight, and suggestions.

thom000001

didn't read whole thread but my 2 sense....

If you are going FI DO NOT GO TO VQ....VGTT motor will give you less headaches (and has an iron block).

Tom

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Im going to assume you have proper fuel for the turbo system.

With that TT kit, stock cams have hit high 500's pushing it on pump.

Most will do mid 500's on pump and stock cams.

I have one of the strongest Greddy 18G setups on these forums. My car with BC3 cams makes 656whp, 604ft/lbs on 16-17psi and only 93 octane.

So to make it easy, 18G kit, good fuel system, good tuning, 93 octane, will be 500-650whp on pump. More on meth or race gas.

THE300ZXMASTER

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good sir! I will most likely just do dual walbro's. All of my lines/FPR are upgraded from a previous build so luckily thats covered. The last thing i want to do is run lean . I will most likely also be running meth.

Does the contact surface of an oem camshaft have a shiny finish? The cams I have appearance of a black anodized finish.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

as someone whos owend and paid dearly on mods for both.. why on earth would you put a built vq engine into a super old car like that? that car cameout in 1990, ie built in 1989, had one. rear suspension geometry is terrible, hicas is retarded, but at least u can remove that.
IM just saying.. for the price you can scoop a 2003 350z for.. why oh why wouldnt you jsut buy a 350? they are hands down one million times more fun to drive as well. apples to apples man.. not hating.. but dude.. WHY???

The VG sucked too, i get that. But unles youre doing a junkyard used engine and are a machine shop mechanic.. i just dont see how its cost effective.
My built block ran at least 1400 just to machine.. let alone pistons, studs, gaskets rods etc etc.. for the price of my build block itself, you could easily spend2-3k more and have an entire 350z to start with.