Nooob Power Question
10-05-2011, 05:11 PM
#23
Doesn't mean the block was built right.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
Last edited by Resmarted; 10-05-2011 at 05:12 PM.
10-05-2011, 05:32 PM
#24
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Doesn't mean the block was built right.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
Sounds good, I didnt have time to check the stamping on the studs today but i should be able to tomorrow. I still have my vg and a spare crossmember just in case. I can always part it out and get my money back. If i dont have l19's I will get them, its just I would rather not have to spend anymore than I have to. Gotta pay to play, a term im familiar with. I have been in contact with John at Z1 and trying to determine the origin of the engine. It resembles very much a build they did for a guy in savannah a while back which is where the salvage yard was. Im not looking to make crazy power or make a race car. Just decided to mix it up since this engine popped up and figured what the hell, lol.
10-05-2011, 05:36 PM
#26
Sounds good, I didnt have time to check the stamping on the studs today but i should be able to tomorrow. I still have my vg and a spare crossmember just in case. I can always part it out and get my money back. If i dont have l19's I will get them, its just I would rather not have to spend anymore than I have to. Gotta pay to play, a term im familiar with. I have been in contact with John at Z1 and trying to determine the origin of the engine. It resembles very much a build they did for a guy in savannah a while back which is where the salvage yard was. Im not looking to make crazy power or make a race car. Just decided to mix it up since this engine popped up and figured what the hell, lol.
We're just trying to help really. I bet if you tallied everything up you could do a 2j swap for less and be able to make a hell of a lot more power and over all have less of a headache
oh and @konrad My l19's had a stamp on them if I recall correctly. I got them used so they were opened up already. My arp main studs were packaged and I didn't want to un-necessarily open them until we got to clearance the mains not sure how the head studs will come but I'd guess in similar fashion.
Last edited by Resmarted; 10-05-2011 at 05:39 PM.
10-05-2011, 06:32 PM
#27
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Doesn't mean the block was built right.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
IMO stay with the vg30. The vq has been a pita so far to work on (I've done all the work along side a friend), can't imagine it's going to be ANY easier on a different chassis. .5 liters really isn't worth the hastle...
keeping the 5 speed? Interesting I guess.
I'd take a vg30dett over a vq35, I honestly briefly considered doing the swap into my car but didn't feel it would be that much easier than just building my motor.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to sell what you got and go 2j imo... That way you are putting a motor that is really boost friendly. I mean the vg isn't the BEST boosted engine but it's pretty damn good, better than most and I feel it's at least better than a vq35. I think swapping it in would almost be a step backward. Like thom said keep that vg30. Most of these guys who are telling you not to do this have fully built cars with serious $ in it. Also most of them are making most of the records of the z33 community. Listen to them.
PS I spoke with Reid about eagle rods, and he believes the block will go before the rods. That's something to consider; you are putting an open deck aluminum block motor and taking out a semi closed iron block... Not what I would consider the best for boost.
Not trying to knock you but just being realistic.
And l19's are miles ahead of the standards. It has to do with their torquing specs. If you can't afford the extra 200$ trust me you don't want to deal with a vq35.
10-06-2011, 04:35 AM
#28
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I understand what you are saying and at least a little bit of where you are coming from.
We're just trying to help really. I bet if you tallied everything up you could do a 2j swap for less and be able to make a hell of a lot more power and over all have less of a headache
oh and @konrad My l19's had a stamp on them if I recall correctly. I got them used so they were opened up already. My arp main studs were packaged and I didn't want to un-necessarily open them until we got to clearance the mains not sure how the head studs will come but I'd guess in similar fashion.
We're just trying to help really. I bet if you tallied everything up you could do a 2j swap for less and be able to make a hell of a lot more power and over all have less of a headache
oh and @konrad My l19's had a stamp on them if I recall correctly. I got them used so they were opened up already. My arp main studs were packaged and I didn't want to un-necessarily open them until we got to clearance the mains not sure how the head studs will come but I'd guess in similar fashion.
At one point I had most of the parts for the 2J swap but at the time didnt have the fabrication resources so ended up selling :/
I called ARP and they say that standard head studs have ARP stamped on the head twice but the L19's have ARP and L19 stamped into it.
10-06-2011, 08:59 AM
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I understand
At one point I had most of the parts for the 2J swap but at the time didnt have the fabrication resources so ended up selling :/
I called ARP and they say that standard head studs have ARP stamped on the head twice but the L19's have ARP and L19 stamped into it.
At one point I had most of the parts for the 2J swap but at the time didnt have the fabrication resources so ended up selling :/
I called ARP and they say that standard head studs have ARP stamped on the head twice but the L19's have ARP and L19 stamped into it.
10-11-2011, 11:22 AM
#31
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Finally got around to checking the studs ( crazy week at work, 65 hours :/ ). They are the standard L17 hardware. I am going to go ahead and order the l19 studs. I should have my ecu and wiring harness done in 2 weeks. If everything runs right after all other measurements are taken I will throw it on the stand and get to work.
10-11-2011, 12:53 PM
#32
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Finally got around to checking the studs ( crazy week at work, 65 hours :/ ). They are the standard L17 hardware. I am going to go ahead and order the l19 studs. I should have my ecu and wiring harness done in 2 weeks. If everything runs right after all other measurements are taken I will throw it on the stand and get to work.
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