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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 07:35 AM
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Default Carbonetics clutch..

I really am done with this ****....now it needs ANOTHER T/O bearing...this will be the 4th bearing in two years on a car that has seen two track days and one Big Bend ORR....BS

so please give me your opinions on what causes the TO bearing to fail....the one in the car right now is the part number carbonetics wants you to use...really fed up with this....its an all day job swapping it out with downpipes and wastegates in the way..
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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what model of car do you have? is this one of the HR's with that weird slave cylinder?

I'm not sure how a specific clutch will wear out a T/o bearing faster. I mean, heavy clutch to heavy clutch they should wear out about the same. The only thing i can think of is if the carbonetics part is junk. maybe try another brand t/o bearing. I always use the nissan ones. never had one go bad yet but any time my engine is out or trans is open i replace it just in case.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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no issues with my TO bearing in a full time road-racer (2 plate clutch)
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by binder
what model of car do you have? is this one of the HR's with that weird slave cylinder?

I'm not sure how a specific clutch will wear out a T/o bearing faster. I mean, heavy clutch to heavy clutch they should wear out about the same. The only thing i can think of is if the carbonetics part is junk. maybe try another brand t/o bearing. I always use the nissan ones. never had one go bad yet but any time my engine is out or trans is open i replace it just in case.
IIRC, the ATS/Carbonetic requires a certain size TO bearing, different than stock.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
IIRC, the ATS/Carbonetic requires a certain size TO bearing, different than stock.
do multiple people manufacture that size? if so i'd try a different brand.

4 bearings going out on 1 setup makes me lean towards that something else is going wrong or something else isn't right with the setup. idk what it would be but i would start looking into alignment of things and if something could be binding.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by binder
do multiple people manufacture that size? if so i'd try a different brand.

4 bearings going out on 1 setup makes me lean towards that something else is going wrong or something else isn't right with the setup. idk what it would be but i would start looking into alignment of things and if something could be binding.
The part that carbonetics wants you to use IS a Nissan part, I can't remember what vehicle it is out of..they gave me the number and I had my local dealer order it for me....It is a SMALLER diameter than the stock TO bearing..I just don't freaking get it! I rev match when down shifting etc...I really DO NOT beat on the car either...very frustrating..I did notice the last time i had it out there were wear marks on the splines of the pressure plate...didnt look totally out of whack..even text pictures to the guy at carbonetics and he said they were normal...

My Z is a 2004.5 with a built motor, greddy twins and all supporting mods..550 at the tire..

&^%$&^%*&^ clutch cost me damn near $2500.00 with overnight Saturday AM shipping and here we are 4 TO bearings later..its BS!
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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and BTW the last time this happened, which is only maybe 5-6 months ago I also replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, stainless braided clutch line etc...all new stuff.. THIS IS A WEEKEND CAR! CRAP!
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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hmm, i'm not really sure. It doesn't sound like anything is binding.

What do you call "going out"? is it just noisy or does it completely fall apart? Maybe that smaller diameter is just a noisy bearing. It doesn't sound like them sending you another one would make much difference.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:21 PM
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^^ ya im curious what the failure is.

carbonetics twin in my 350z since 2004, same TO bearing. still driving to this day.

havent looked at the setup in a long time, been a couple years since the trans was out of that car. is it possible that its an adjustment problem? i have never really thought much about throw out bearing failures or studied them much. i wonder if having the pedal adjusted with too much pushrod extension would cause wear on the TOB from always having excessive pressure plate pressure on it?

Last edited by phunk; Oct 16, 2011 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 04:17 AM
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I know its failing because it starts to make a bunch of racket if I shift to fast...right now I have to granny shift (slow) or it will grind the hell out of the gears....2nd-6th.

BTW did I mention I bought a BRAND NEW Transmission because of this issue as well? CD009 might have 4000 miles on it....I am serious about this being a weekend car! lol I thought I had an issue with the synchros..so I bought a new one with a new TO bearing, sleeve and that's when i changed all the master and slave stuff....that tranny was grinding and i thought there was an issue with it....took it apart..on the phone for several hours measureing stuff inside, making sure I had the right TO, the right sleeve, the right fork etc etc..found NOTHING wrong, put in a new T/O BAM... noise gone...smooth shifting etc...now...months later I'm back in the same boat..I doubt there is 1000 miles on this latest TO bearing..VERY frustrating!

Last edited by RED RIDER; Oct 17, 2011 at 04:22 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 04:24 AM
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I also made sure the pushrod was positioned correctly...there is a note about this in the carbonetics install manual..so yeah I checked that too..

I JUST DON'T GET IT!
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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when the car is in first gear, clutch down... if you hold the RPMs at 2000 or so and you slowly slowly let up the clutch pedal... when the drivetrain just begins to preload meaning the clutch is starting to grab... where is your pedal position? is it like half inch right off the floor, or more in the middle, or right at top? etc?

im not trying to drill you or question your work i am just trying to see if i can think of anything.

when you did the trans and TOB jobs did you open up the clutch and inspect how it was doing?
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by phunk
when the car is in first gear, clutch down... if you hold the RPMs at 2000 or so and you slowly slowly let up the clutch pedal... when the drivetrain just begins to preload meaning the clutch is starting to grab... where is your pedal position? is it like half inch right off the floor, or more in the middle, or right at top? etc?

im not trying to drill you or question your work i am just trying to see if i can think of anything.

when you did the trans and TOB jobs did you open up the clutch and inspect how it was doing?
I haven't actually done the experiment you are asking but it typically engages about 1/2 way up...would like it to be right off the floor!
and yes I did pull apart all 950 fing bolts (lol being sarcastic here) and inspected the clutch...did not find anything unusual..nothing cracked etc..it all looked good like I said with only the exception of wear marks on the splines of the pressure plate.
If i had the money and time I would drop the damn thing off to Sharif @ forged and tell him to call me when its fixed lmao!



on edit...yes all the bolts were meticulously torqued back to spec on the pressure plate...and this is a three disc carbonetics btw..

Last edited by RED RIDER; Oct 17, 2011 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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I guess I could try adjusting the damn master cylinder rod just for grins.. i dont know..
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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When a throwout bearing goes out it should make noise all the time, not just when you shift fast. I've i've fixed a few for friends that were completely destroyed and they shifted fine until the ball bearings came completely out of them. It just making noise shouldn't affect getting the car in gear. It sounds like more is going on here than just a throw out bearing.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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^^ ya thats the thing... something isnt adding up.
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