Oil bearing clearance high WHP - Page 2 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 02-26-2012, 01:06 PM   #21
jerryd87
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thats a myth you would think it would be true, but if you google it theres several people who have measured and found no difference on other platforms, ill be measuring as well when i assemble my engine. and theres a reason you can zero the tools, very easy to zero them and also get certified pieces of steel to guage them against ive never had a problem with fowler tools though. ever, like a snap on tool but no where near the price.
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That's true, but I'm fairly positive if you upgrade to arp studs 9/10 you'll have to have them line honed when you increase the torque specs on the main caps.

The problem I have with buying tools to check specs etc is they aren't proven. Yeah expensive/high quality tools are less likely to be off, but I trust a machinist's tool that's been used many times so the machinist knows how/where it's off.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #22
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thats a myth you would think it would be true, but if you google it theres several people who have measured and found no difference on other platforms, ill be measuring as well when i assemble my engine. and theres a reason you can zero the tools, very easy to zero them and also get certified pieces of steel to guage them against ive never had a problem with fowler tools though. ever, like a snap on tool but no where near the price.
Well those are other platforms, different materials, different torque specs. Honestly only if they have the same dimensions and materials would I consider it comparable. Besides that, when you introduce a new higher strength girdle (like I am) you are bound to run into those issues.

After all the issues my build's seen with out even getting the new engine back in the car, I decided to not take any further chances, and sent it to (imho) the best z shop around.
You can do what you want, but these vq's aren't the most friendly to big hp numbers, so overkill on assembly imo does not exist.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:25 PM   #23
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unfortinatly im not willing to pay the ridiculous price on shipping plus a core =/, what it costs to ship and the core(since shipping a core back is over 60% of the cost of the core) im confident in my skills to do it myself. plus no shop offers an option with 8.0:1 pistons like im using. i believe hal mentioned the girdle should make no difference somewhere, like i said im going to measure mine anyway when it gets back from the machine shop using both hardware and ill post it in the build thread i start up. even if you dont trust the tools ill be using if they are off the dial bore guage will be off the same amount with each set of hardware =P granted wont help you since your already doing it but others can.

ive posted it before but personally i think the problems people have seen with spun bearings is from clearances. its a different breed who purchase this platform and i easily see many wanting a engine that sounds stock, since ive seen numerous threads of "omg my engine is making this noise after x part install that it dint make before!" and stock sounds dont happen when building for power, the thing will make more noise period at least until it warms up.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:39 AM   #24
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8:1? why so low?
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:03 AM   #25
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im trying to avoid mixing xylene in the gas if i can but still running about 30 lbs of boost on the street. if i dont have issues with the stock sleeves mayby go to a bigger turbo on race gas? but i doubt that too many other parts of the car to upgrade currently.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:47 AM   #26
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im trying to avoid mixing xylene in the gas if i can but still running about 30 lbs of boost on the street. if i dont have issues with the stock sleeves mayby go to a bigger turbo on race gas? but i doubt that too many other parts of the car to upgrade currently.
30psi on the street??? WTF... If it was a 4 banger I could understand but on a VQ .. where do you live that you got streets that slow you to spool up yo 30psi and than still have the space to slow down.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:07 AM   #27
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30psi on pump gas? that would well north of 800whp on any turbo that can actually support 30psi.

Have you ever driven a car >500whp? I only run 16 psi and can hit 130 before the end of most on ramps.

You think you will want 30psi on the street, but you wont.

Last edited by str8dum1; 02-27-2012 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:17 AM   #28
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30psi on pump gas? that would well north of 800whp on any turbo that can actually support 30psi.

Have you ever driven a car >500whp? I only run 16 psi and can hit 130 before the end of most on ramps.

You think you will want 30psi on the street, but you wont.
i ran 28 on the street and wanted more before i ran into my cooling issue at 670 lots of open road around here though
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:15 AM   #29
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where on the streets? nowhere ill hardly ever if ever hit that on the streets but im a bit lazy and dont like to change **** if i dont have to. dont wanna mess with mixing gas, changing maps, draining tanks to run race fuel. rather get it tuned and just be able to throw 93 into it and be good. and str8 my camaro was 500 hp on nitrous which i did use on the street before i retired it to a track only car(was more of because the full spool was annoying though as was the noise from all the interior i stripped out and uhhhh "lightening holes" i made like where the heater box was.........), was screwing around with some of the mallet corvettes and solstices as well when i was trying to get a job there, plus they picked up the solstices at the dealership i worked at so sometimes got to play with them. we also had the xlr-v ive driven. chevy dealership i worked at i mess with the zo6 corvettes when we had and played with my bosses 650 drag camaro(NE ohio is pretty much camaro/mustang territory.)

i only went with the 350z because it handles much much better stock then any of the 3rd or 4th gen camaros ive owned/driven even with upgraded suspensions.

like i said above ill be running that on the street but hardly ever hitting that, not in hawaii at least, i might try and see if they have any top speed challenge on big island before i leave though.

now arizona when i go there
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30psi on the street??? WTF... If it was a 4 banger I could understand but on a VQ .. where do you live that you got streets that slow you to spool up yo 30psi and than still have the space to slow down.
edit: i guess if i took it to h3 i could open it up, theres pretty much a couple on exits on one side of the island and a couple off exits on the other side. with like 20-25 miles of nothing inbetween as it cuts through the middle of the island, no where for cops to hide eather thats probably why thats where the dumb honda boys play. this is a car thats only going to see 2000 miles a year tops though, we have the wifes focus for every day driving.

Last edited by jerryd87; 02-27-2012 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:32 PM   #30
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edit: i guess if i took it to h3 i could open it up, theres pretty much a couple on exits on one side of the island and a couple off exits on the other side. with like 20-25 miles of nothing inbetween as it cuts through the middle of the island, no where for cops to hide eather thats probably why thats where the street races take place. this is a car thats only going to see 2000 miles a year tops though, we have the wifes focus for every day driving.
Don't talk about street racing... That's a big forum no-no....



30 psi is a lot... Not to many cars here really run "High" boost like that. Like str8 said, the kits that flow that much on our engines support a sh*t ton of power. I think with 30psi on my turbo I'd be looking at north of 850whp... That being said, I don't think the turbo would flow past that, but it's hard to say. Eventually when I get the car running at high power, I know that I'll have the gear dependent boost setup on the haltech, because I don't think the car will hook at all with big power in the lower gears...

Jerry, I really recommend you send your stuff off to a reputable shop. Give Dynosty a call, Dustin, Hal, and Eddie will take care of you.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:45 PM   #31
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ill probably be maxxing the turbo right around 800 is what im expecting on this build. and like i said its too damn expensive to ship stuff around and i know what im doing. although hal did toss a base tune on my haltech for me before he shipped it to me. and ive consulted him few times on my build before i dropped a decent order with him. if i pay anyone to do anything it would be to tune the car, haltechs alot different then reflashing the old gm ecu's(the ones that actually did have chips and had to peel a sticker off and let it sit in the sun for a day before you could flash it! lol) but it depends i might try that one myself as well starting slow rather be street tuned then dyno tuned, have my buddy drive while i monitor and make adjustments


lol edited the post to make it a little better for the forum in regard to the nono =P

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Old 02-28-2012, 03:09 AM   #32
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So my machine shop called and my block/crank is finished.
I will be picking it up the block sometime this weekend. I also had them measure everything for me. He recommends extra clearance bearings. When I get there I'll talk to him more and see what he says. Should be building it sometime in the next 2 weeks.

On a side note I cant decide if I really need cams or not. I have the rev up and for my 600whp power goal I dont know if its that necessary...
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:01 AM   #33
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^ More money down the drain.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:41 AM   #34
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^ More money down the drain.
Yes it is, and if I can make 600on oem rev up cams and save $1100 I'd rather put that down for a proper tune
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:38 AM   #35
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with properly sized turbos, boost will carry your power curve further than cams will.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:47 AM   #36
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with properly sized turbos, boost will carry your power curve further than cams will.
I'm going with 6765 cea .96 ar. So you think I should be good with oem cams?
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:24 AM   #37
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I'm going with 6765 cea .96 ar. So you think I should be good with oem cams?
going to be a little laggy with the .96AR wont it?
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:09 AM   #38
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that turbo has more than enough breathe to make 600whp all the way to redline.

just might need to boost creep your curve some. but thats how it should be tuned anyhow.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:43 AM   #39
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that turbo has more than enough breathe to make 600whp all the way to redline.

just might need to boost creep your curve some. but thats how it should be tuned anyhow.
Correct. The 6765 .81 BB made 513whp/500wtq at Dynosty and spooled up to 14psi (spring pressure) by 3800rpm. The boost was increased slowly from there. This is all pump gas.

The JB .96 a/r "should" get you to 14-15psi by 4200rpm and it will carry the power all the way to 7000rpm+.


EDIT:

I should mention that the 513whp was made on a simple short block build. Stock heads, stock DE cams, no head work, stock intake manifold, not even an IM spacer. Aftermarket headers though.

Last edited by Boosted Performance; 02-28-2012 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:30 AM   #40
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Correct. The 6765 .81 BB made 513whp/500wtq at Dynosty and spooled up to 14psi (spring pressure) by 3800rpm. The boost was increased slowly from there. This is all pump gas.

The JB .96 a/r "should" get you to 14-15psi by 4200rpm and it will carry the power all the way to 7000rpm+.


EDIT:

I should mention that the 513whp was made on a simple short block build. Stock heads, stock DE cams, no head work, stock intake manifold, not even an IM spacer. Aftermarket headers though.
You think if they went up with boost to lets say 20-22 Psi it could make 600whp with no head work stock cams? With the .96 housing
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