When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
this is for a factory engine at a factory power level, its 100% useless for anyone not on stock block. ive yet to see a vq from the factory come even close to the limit even with over 110k miles on it.
the limit is what i would start with personally because i build loose engines and go up from there depending how high i wanted power.
Originally Posted by Conway_160
So this is out of the FSM,
MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE Standard : 0.035 - 0.045 mm (0.0014 - 0.0018 in)
Limit : 0.065 mm (0.0026 in)
CONNECTING ROD BEARING OIL CLEARANCE Standard : 0.034 - 0.059 mm (0.0013 - 0.0023 in)
Limit : 0.070 mm (0.0028 in)
So should clearances be set at .04X for ~500Whp or what?
not really in reality you COULD run 10w30 still, i would make the jump to 15w40 though i run 15w40 with .0035 main clearances and would run that till prob about .0038
Originally Posted by taywan
Don't think the .0030 is a little too loose? Better run some thick oil
not really in reality you COULD run 10w30 still, i would make the jump to 15w40 though i run 15w40 with .0035 main clearances and would run that till prob about .0038
Will 15w40 be ok for 0*F as long as the car idles untill warm?
I'm running 10w-40 conventional castroll gtx w lucas additive. Broke in w redline additive. Think that's ok for me? Oil pressure is like 90 ish...and of course when I rev, it'll jump up like normal.
Will 15w40 be ok for 0*F as long as the car idles untill warm?
meh well ill tell you what i tell everyone, if this is your daily forget about heavy modifications its just asking for problems. a vehicle that you are considering for high power should not really be driven in those conditions. when your doubling to tripling the stock power you will have issues i dont care what car it is. i drove my Z on low boost to get it to my new house and with the tires i run for the power it makes i had to be pushed if there was any snow on the road what so ever. literally there was one inch in the driveway of my new house and my wife had to use my avalanche to push me into the garage.
sounds a bit high, its about what i ran but i deleted oil squirters for your power i would just run rotella 10w30, then you dont need addivitives because you already get them in the oil since its formulated for the extreme pressures of a diesel engine.
Originally Posted by taywan
I'm running 10w-40 conventional castroll gtx w lucas additive. Broke in w redline additive. Think that's ok for me? Oil pressure is like 90 ish...and of course when I rev, it'll jump up like normal.
It wont be my daily, but on occasion I will want to take it to work just to get it out of the garage during the winter. I understand about the tire thing I have potenza re-01r's on it and had to drive it last winter. Super super sketch, but now I have a winter setup just incase.
Originally Posted by jerryd87
meh well ill tell you what i tell everyone, if this is your daily forget about heavy modifications its just asking for problems. a vehicle that you are considering for high power should not really be driven in those conditions. when your doubling to tripling the stock power you will have issues i dont care what car it is. i drove my Z on low boost to get it to my new house and with the tires i run for the power it makes i had to be pushed if there was any snow on the road what so ever. literally there was one inch in the driveway of my new house and my wife had to use my avalanche to push me into the garage.
I'm rebuilding my motor it's completly stock i spun a rod bearing and got it fixed I got .0020 over main bearings and .0010 rod. Checking my clerance I got .0025 on all my mains and .0034 on all my rods and I was wondering if that will work for a stock motor and just run 10w40 oil or will I have to cut it down more to match?
Why do you want so much clearance on a stock motor?
Originally Posted by Jwill90
I'm rebuilding my motor it's completly stock i spun a rod bearing and got it fixed I got .0020 over main bearings and .0010 rod. Checking my clerance I got .0025 on all my mains and .0034 on all my rods and I was wondering if that will work for a stock motor and just run 10w40 oil or will I have to cut it down more to match?
Why do you want so much clearance on a stock motor?
I don't honestly it's just after I bought new rods and bearings that's what I came out with and was just wondering before I sent them to be reconditioned.
Jerry,
I actually switched to Rotella 15-40 and it "seemed" to quite things down. Think that is too thick for the clearances? Goal is 500whp to 550whp if she'll make it w the TN kit on e85..Gona do e85 and a 93 map.
This thread still going or what? Just broke down my motor that was originally built for boost and ran into issues. Dropped off to machine shop and right now I need to make decision on clearances. My goals are to be between 700rwhp and 8. This is very confusing. I am have shops assemble the long block so I know everything is right. Thing is I'm lost on clearances. From what I found when I took apart was the fact that they were acl std bearings and seems that either clearances were to close or oil starvation. Idk. But here a pic of a rod bearing. I'm definitely wanting looser clearances this time around. Any ideas? Thxs
Std ACL for rods and mains. Had measurement with plastigauge for the rods 0.0016" .Oil temp 190-220F 10w40 Redline synthetic high zddp. At operating temp I get just over 20psi oil pressure (rev up oil pump, eps tuning gallery gaskets) Amsoil 30w was used during first start of motor when built. Currently 385whp at 7psi @7krpm pump gas (9.5:1) and have about 200miles on the setup, was pretty much broken in on the dyno. Planning to ramp it up to 475-500whp this spring with around 15-16psi.