Anyone know what 'average' OEM clearances might be after 50-100k miles? How tight do they actually come from the factory?

 

 

Update

Name…………….Clearance main / Rod …………..Oil W and / oil temp F / Std oilpump..…Miles……....WHP…………… still running ….Cause
jerryd87………...… 0.0035 / 0.0038...…………………….15w40 / 320 /revup.…...…...….10-13k …...600………………...... Yes …….
BJMax1………………0.0017 / 0.0018 ……………………....10w40 / 266 / Yes……………….. 1.5-2k …..…630 ………………….… No ………… Rod bearing.
BJmax2………………0.0028 / 0.0030 ………………..……..10w50 / 230 / Yes ……………… Zero New ..>650 …………………Waiting to start on this topic.
RayFx…………….…0.0020 / 0.0021 ……………………....10w60 / 230 / revup……………….. 2.5k ….....…560 ………………….… No ………… Rod and main bearing spung.

 

Oke who is going to help to fil the list plz if you don't waned to be known. Pm me and I post it as Misterx :-)

 

So after reading this i'm still just a confused as I was before I read this. But I hope BjMax's list gets a lot more attention so i can have an idea of what to set my bearing clearances to.

 

no my temp was in F, i see between 140-180 degrees fahrenheit with occasionally hitting 190. engine oil starts to break down past 165 degrees(well specifically it begins to oxidize which limits its ability to lubricate) and the rate of oxidation doubles every 18 degrees F. at 266 degrees F engine oil has lost about 26% effectiveness, if i was running 320 degrees f my oil would have lost around 96-98% effectiveness. its getting close to the thermal failure of alot of street oils. oxidation cannot be filtered out either

sheer strength sees major hits with temp also, also once subject to heat the oil dosnt recover if you run it at 266 and it degrades say 25% over the course of 3 hours run time then the engine sees 200 degree temps, it wont be a degradation of 100% oil effectiveness no matter how long the car cools down it will start at that same 75% effectiveness. thats a pretty realistic figure too if not conservative

also keep in mind i saw about 20-30 degree higher temps using 10w30 rotella t5(syn blend) vs my standard 15w40 rotella t3(plain ol dino) why the t5 only stayed in the engine 800-1000 miles

 

before machine work my engine had 110k on it and was around .0022 rods and .0023 mains, the g35 im rebuilding atm was around similar milage and around .0020 and .0022 respectively not completely sure what is up with the mains wearing faster since they have more power per bearing placed on them but they are also are larger in diameter.

 

holy **** 10w60 on such tiny clearances is insane lol

 

Indeed. I hope to get more Info. I thing 100 vqs with spung bearings are here. And none who share the info. ;-( or I am the only one here who wants to know?

 

Indeed. I hope to get more Info. I think 100 vqs with spung bearings are here. And none who share the info. ;-( or I am the only one here who wants to know?

 

Unfortunately most of the people with blown motors probably don't know those kinds of details. The shops probably don't either as machine work is often times outsourced.

 

+1, i dont know my clearances and its been soo long i doubt Forged has the specs nor the machine shop that did the work. Maybe some shops keep logs of every motor they built, but I bet the majority of them dont

 

Thats true. But I hoped to get some awnsers. What oil did you use?

 

i use mobil1 TDT

 

...

 

This std oem clearance is what I should set the bearings at for a rebuild w acl std bearings??

 

What kind of power are you looking at?

 

460-500whp or as close as I can get to the 500 mark w my TN kit for now. Im sure I'll want more later on which I why I'm going ahead w th L19's and and other components that I can grow with.

 

If you want to go bigger later, you're going to want to go much bigger than standard.

 

Define..Much bigger please