Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

edit derp


Go with the 3" dp. Some 2.5" stuff will actually bolt up to 3". Not all, but in my experience it has.

If it's a real hks just sell it and get something better LOL! HKS retains it's value. I'd personally run a single 3". Custom fab or whatever.

IMHO hks's sound like a diarrhea *****. but that's just me.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

I have seen injen and HKS mentioned so I am not sure which you actually have but red35 has made 500whp with injen and ITINKICN made close to 550whp with Injen. I had a 3.5" down pipes and a 3" exhaust I couldn't deal with the sound it droned like a ****. So I went back to a 2.5" exhaust not sure how much power I sacrificed but I enjoy the comfort more that I miss the horsepower.

Robert_K

iTrader: (25)

I have the Greddy with APS 2.5" downpipes and it's still loud.

zerosec

iTrader: (3)

good luck with ur project !

Z_enthusiast

iTrader: (16)

Sub'd

Nice work and progress! Ill be doing this Very Soon! think i found me a DE to rebuild for 600 with a tranny that needs synchros! GL with build bud

bgant3

Update 6/19

Got my packages in the mail today!! Ive never had so much fun opening boxes in my life!! was too happy.




TADA!!!

Greddy 18G Kit
DW injectors
Balanced Crank (Just picked it up today)

I still need EMS, Clutch, & L19s. Those are big $ items. Lil odds and ends like oil/fuel pump/plenum spacer, I have cash to buy now. May begin engine build next month sometime. Im way happy right now...lol. Just keep telling myself take my time, and dont take shortcuts. Dont want any problems. hehe.

JaE35z

iTrader: (11)

sweeet

ibelonginprison

iTrader: (1)

Definitely don't take short cuts. Best of luck to you man! That's quite a little collection you're amassing. Can't wait to see the progress as you go along. Be sure to take lots of pics! (that's one thing I regret not doing more of)

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

youll need a charge pipe to complete the kit. You have a duplicate j pipe and are missing one of the u shaped pipes to go to the intercooler.

freddys 350z

nice

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

Ive been linking my stuff all over the net but I have a spare Haltech Redbox for sale for fairly cheap. Let me know if you are interested. Good Luck with the build.

Z_enthusiast

iTrader: (16)

Any update? im liking the build... Ill be buying my spare block this week! cant wait to start ordering the goodies and cracking the block open.

bgant3

Today I took AAAALLLLL those parts, put them in my Z. someway, somehow..lmao..then drove them down to my dad's garage an hour away..

while i was down there, I pressure washed the block, and bought engine stand bolts. didnt put engine on it yet, Just Wd-40 it to prevent rust and wrapped in plastic bags. All I need is L19s & headgasket to fully assemble engine. When i start, I wanna do it all in one weekend. Assembling engine I mean.

kinda got bad news today as I lost a few stores on my route. So thats $120 a week off my paycheck. I fill bread @grocery stores for a company. So that kinda binds my plans. But anyway once I start assembly, pics will be taken.lol. I already have my torque specs/clearances etc written down.

bgant3

Will Begin Engine assembly Friday night. Got all parts to assemble engine, and put on the TT kit. L19s & headgasket set are on way in mail. Still need to get Electronics and a Clutch. Gonna Double, maybe even triple check my main clearances. See too much stories of spun mains. dont want that to give me any problems. I will have my Dad and his friend who still builds his engines and drag races locally. Just want them their for advice. Im gonna be doing all the work, turning bolts : )

Will Pick Up Feeler Gauge, & assembly / fastener lubes tomorrow. Sure I can find piston ring compressor in that garage somewhere. Like some1 suggested, will take tons of pics.

Here is my spec sheet Im going to use for bottom end

Main Bolts: 60ft lbs
Rod Bolts: 43ft lbs
L19 Head Bolts: 90ft lbs



Piston Ring Gap Specs (Wiseco Pistons). I kept stock bore, so just divided that by 25.4. then multiplied the answer, by the specs Wiseco suggested.
top ring: 0.0187
2nd ring: 0.0206

With My clearances, going to check for/do factory specs.
* Main Cap Clearance= .0020

* Rod Clearance = .0020

* crankshaft End Play = .10 - .25

* Once rods/ w pistons Installed. Rod Clearances (Space between each rod)= .0020

bgant3

I began build last night around 5pm as planned. Had my Dad and His Friend alongside me. I didnt want them doing anything though. Just there if I had question.lol Everything was going good. I set my main bearings. Set my crank. Torqued to spec. Took it back apart, Checked my clearances. They all checked out at .002.

So after I get that step, put it all back together. Next step is putting pistons in. My Dad's friends gets up and ask if I had the block honed while it was at machine shop. I said no, and he said, "well we are going to have to do that before dropping pistons in, because these cylinder walls are too smooth...." I guess that was engine builder trick of the trade i didnt know, so I took it all back apart. which i didnt mind, btw...this was fun!! learning etc etc...

I took the little machine he brought back to me, and I sprayed each cylinder wall down and went down each one with the little machine. But HERE IS THE BUT.... i forgot to remove the main bearings that seat in the journals of the case ....dumb error on my part not paying attention to all details. but at least bearings are cheap. I'll start the whole process over next thursday. My L19s, headgasket, and new Mains should be here by then. Live and Learn.

They both assumed I had it done at machine shop. But I didnt. Guess the thought to even ask about didnt come to mind until, we were about to do pistons.

couple pics i took
before assembly. clean block


Machine I was instructed to use. He told me the walls were too smooth. Pistons rings would seat better after doing.


How the bearings looked, afterwards because I forgot to remove them. I dont wanna take a chance, so already ordered another set. The surface isnt jagged, but any thousands of mm can cause problems down there. Using Engine guys sources, ordered set vq35 standard acl for $40. should be here tuesday.




Pistons attached to rods. OMG those pins are no joke!! lol. I struggled getting two rods done. Had easier time with final few.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

It's called a ball hone and it's a 1/2azzed way of doing it. You should have the block bored .020 over to remove any imperfections in the cylinders and make sure they are not at all distorted and then have the machine shop hone it. Ball honing is not something I would do at all on a boosted engine.
Also looks like you didn't do a lot of research to miss the fact that any high performance engine builder will recommend a bore/hone on a performance build I am actually surprised the machine shop didn't ask if you wanted it done.
At the very least take it back to the machine shop and get a real hone. It will work as it is but you're longevity will be greatly reduced you may even get blow by if you turn the boost up because as your friend said the rings will not seat with the walls and the ball hone likely isn't enough.

I am not trying to pee on your parade just trying to help before it is too late do it right do it once.

bgant3

10-4. I'll let him look at it but....

Engine Basically brand new. There wasnt anything in the cylinder walls. lol. really. i thought that was best. and as i said, wanted to keep stock bore. Block was clean as hell! I trust this guy and all his experience. between the two, like 40+ yrs of racing experience. I'll be fine. Thanks.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

sylvan is correct those things are crap, ive seen lawn mowers have issues trying to use a ball hone to hone cylinder walls. you can get the correct tool for use in a drill though.


ive never met anyone who promoted the use of a ball hone, dint even think you could buy em anymore.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

....

bgant3

it'll be @shop tomorrow for inspection. thx dudes.