My Final Update
#44
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Thanks guys. Got the injectors and CJM installed today. I was thinking that the CJM Stage 0 didn't remove the factory dampener, but it does. I'll probably end up getting new rails now because that was the reason I was staying with the OEM. :/
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If you are worried about the small number of us with the fuel resonance issues then I would squash that worry right now. It seems to only affect us g35 guys and only when you install a full kit with new lines and all. When I had the stage 0 on my car I had zero problems but when I went with the stage 3 twin pump is the time I started getting issues.
Just throw the stage 0 on it and get it tuned nice and if you happen to get lean spots in the same areas we get (at least 3 areas around 2k, 2500, and 3k) then worry about getting the dampened rails. No need to waste money until you need to.
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+1
If you are worried about the small number of us with the fuel resonance issues then I would squash that worry right now. It seems to only affect us g35 guys and only when you install a full kit with new lines and all. When I had the stage 0 on my car I had zero problems but when I went with the stage 3 twin pump is the time I started getting issues.
Just throw the stage 0 on it and get it tuned nice and if you happen to get lean spots in the same areas we get (at least 3 areas around 2k, 2500, and 3k) then worry about getting the dampened rails. No need to waste money until you need to.
If you are worried about the small number of us with the fuel resonance issues then I would squash that worry right now. It seems to only affect us g35 guys and only when you install a full kit with new lines and all. When I had the stage 0 on my car I had zero problems but when I went with the stage 3 twin pump is the time I started getting issues.
Just throw the stage 0 on it and get it tuned nice and if you happen to get lean spots in the same areas we get (at least 3 areas around 2k, 2500, and 3k) then worry about getting the dampened rails. No need to waste money until you need to.
Do you still think it's worth upgrading to the new Walbro E85 pump over the Aeromotive?
Last edited by Ruthless18x; 09-02-2012 at 06:46 PM.
#50
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For future reference, the fuel regulator won't fit next to the VIN plate with a velocity manifold. Charles is sending me a new line that is extended so that I can mount the regulator on the passenger side.
Pssh I'm still way behind Joel and you.
Pssh I'm still way behind Joel and you.
Last edited by Ruthless18x; 09-04-2012 at 07:27 PM.
#51
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Even the old walbro 255 say don't use e85 in them. I think it's just their way of getting out of warranty if something fails.
#52
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The search for a ARC intercooler isn't going well. Might just get an ARC oil cooler to mount in front of my Spearco. The sad thing is, I could have had the fully built block with the GTM kit like I had originally planned for the extra cash I've spent on JDM stuff.
#55
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Hmm...are you aware of any NASA requirements? I do HPDE and auto-x. Thats my main use for the car, it won't be registered or street driven.
I'm really excited about running E85, just want to make sure everything is setup right.
I'm really excited about running E85, just want to make sure everything is setup right.
#56
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I doubt any of the fast VQs on here meet all the actual NHRA rules.
Rules: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/U...%20Section.pdf
FPR Location:
Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles
Flywheel Shield:
All other RWD cars running 11.49 or quicker forwhich an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not commercially available may use an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield from another application and mount it to a motor plate that is mounted to the engine block at all available bolt holes; or must be
equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure and completely surrounding the bellhousing 360 degrees.
Driveshaft loops:
all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360
degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.
Rules: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/U...%20Section.pdf
FPR Location:
Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles
Flywheel Shield:
All other RWD cars running 11.49 or quicker forwhich an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not commercially available may use an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield from another application and mount it to a motor plate that is mounted to the engine block at all available bolt holes; or must be
equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure and completely surrounding the bellhousing 360 degrees.
Driveshaft loops:
all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360
degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.
#57
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Well any ideas where to mount the FPR? The stupid velocity manifold is huge and limits a lot of possible places. I was thinking by the ID plate on the passenger side, but even that is a tight fit with the factory feed line and EVAP.
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Directly behind the intake ports (middle of the car) low on the firewall. I'm looking right at the spot below the chrome manifold that is almost the same place mine is mounted.