inforthearcpartout jk

Thats a crazy list of parts br0, good luck with your build

 

Damn im jelly of all that jdm goodness.

 

Nice.

 

Thanks guys. Got the injectors and CJM installed today. I was thinking that the CJM Stage 0 didn't remove the factory dampener, but it does. I'll probably end up getting new rails now because that was the reason I was staying with the OEM. :/

 

Don't bother, the oem rails are plenty big. And even on your car where you want all this bling, you won't even see them. Just more cost and time.

 

+1

If you are worried about the small number of us with the fuel resonance issues then I would squash that worry right now. It seems to only affect us g35 guys and only when you install a full kit with new lines and all. When I had the stage 0 on my car I had zero problems but when I went with the stage 3 twin pump is the time I started getting issues.

Just throw the stage 0 on it and get it tuned nice and if you happen to get lean spots in the same areas we get (at least 3 areas around 2k, 2500, and 3k) then worry about getting the dampened rails. No need to waste money until you need to.

 

I have a stage 0 on mine and I had no problem with fuel delivery.

 

Great. Appreciate the feedback, I'll just stay with the stage 0 and factory rails then. I'm going to have to lengthen the line to the regulator though because it won't fit by the VIN plate with the Velocity.

Do you still think it's worth upgrading to the new Walbro E85 pump over the Aeromotive?

 

you are ARC #1 customer

 

For future reference, the fuel regulator won't fit next to the VIN plate with a velocity manifold. Charles is sending me a new line that is extended so that I can mount the regulator on the passenger side.

Pssh I'm still way behind Joel and you.

 

I wouldn't bother until you run out of pump. I think a 340 runs out around 750cc injectors at 100% duty cycle.

Even the old walbro 255 say don't use e85 in them. I think it's just their way of getting out of warranty if something fails.

 

Alright. I listed it for sale just for the hell of it since it's not installed yet. When I get to that part of the car I'll just use what I've got.

The search for a ARC intercooler isn't going well. Might just get an ARC oil cooler to mount in front of my Spearco. The sad thing is, I could have had the fully built block with the GTM kit like I had originally planned for the extra cash I've spent on JDM stuff.

 

Not sure if anyone else has run into this but the track busts my ***** about the regulator by the vin plate...it's in the bell housing area so if the clutch or fly wheel blow it would take out the regulator.

 

NHRA officials won't let me run without a "flywheel plate" due to the hp of my car. It's a bunch of crap. I'm not welding some huge piece of steel on my car.

 

Hmm...are you aware of any NASA requirements? I do HPDE and auto-x. Thats my main use for the car, it won't be registered or street driven.

I'm really excited about running E85, just want to make sure everything is setup right.

 

I doubt any of the fast VQs on here meet all the actual NHRA rules.

Rules: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/U...%20Section.pdf

FPR Location:
Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles

Flywheel Shield:
All other RWD cars running 11.49 or quicker forwhich an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not commercially available may use an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield from another application and mount it to a motor plate that is mounted to the engine block at all available bolt holes; or must be
equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure and completely surrounding the bellhousing 360 degrees.

Driveshaft loops:
all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360
degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.

 

Well any ideas where to mount the FPR? The stupid velocity manifold is huge and limits a lot of possible places. I was thinking by the ID plate on the passenger side, but even that is a tight fit with the factory feed line and EVAP.

 

cut out the firewall like a boss

 

N**** please.

Hey aren't you supposed to get tuned again soon?

 

Directly behind the intake ports (middle of the car) low on the firewall. I'm looking right at the spot below the chrome manifold that is almost the same place mine is mounted.