Stock knock sensor and cel
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So working on tuning still and continue running into CEL p0300. currently tuning on just osiris as we are trying to work this issue out before getting the haltech in and going all out. reguardless of timing and afr p0300 continues to come out. Begining to think the extra noise from the stroker and cams is tripping the stock sensor and throwing the code. but wanted opinions from the locals.
side note. build is 4.1L HR with gtm twin kit 3076r's and id 1000's and cjm twin hangar set up.
side note. build is 4.1L HR with gtm twin kit 3076r's and id 1000's and cjm twin hangar set up.
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Was worried it was real missfire but I find it hard to believe now with the timing completely retarded and afrs perfect. Will try that after I Change plugs tonight.
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check wiring connections at the connectors for all the injectors and coils. Those things can push out just enough to cause a bad connection. Mine always threw a 0300 even though the connector was only loose on #2. Not sure why it never threw a 0302 but it didn't.
Also, like rich said, too little timing will misfire and causes just as many problems as too much.
Also, like rich said, too little timing will misfire and causes just as many problems as too much.
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check wiring connections at the connectors for all the injectors and coils. Those things can push out just enough to cause a bad connection. Mine always threw a 0300 even though the connector was only loose on #2. Not sure why it never threw a 0302 but it didn't.
Also, like rich said, too little timing will misfire and causes just as many problems as too much.
Also, like rich said, too little timing will misfire and causes just as many problems as too much.
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also the cel comes and goes. itl be on for a day or so and then disappears on its own. i assumed if it was a true missfire that code didnt go away and the cel stayed on?
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If it doesn't sense misfire long enough it will go out. It's not a persistent code.
Also keep in mind it might not be misfire under full load... rather it could be a idle or light/part throttle misfire on tip or cruising which you might not feel in boost or see on the dyno. If you're running aggressive cams this could very well be the case.
Also keep in mind it might not be misfire under full load... rather it could be a idle or light/part throttle misfire on tip or cruising which you might not feel in boost or see on the dyno. If you're running aggressive cams this could very well be the case.
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If it doesn't sense misfire long enough it will go out. It's not a persistent code.
Also keep in mind it might not be misfire under full load... rather it could be a idle or light/part throttle misfire on tip or cruising which you might not feel in boost or see on the dyno. If you're running aggressive cams this could very well be the case.
Also keep in mind it might not be misfire under full load... rather it could be a idle or light/part throttle misfire on tip or cruising which you might not feel in boost or see on the dyno. If you're running aggressive cams this could very well be the case.
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CEL flashing means a spark misfire and un burnt fuel is being dumped out, spark misfire maybe to rich or a cracked spark plug, or the coil driver can't support the spark on the top end, try a cylinder drop test
1. hold RPMS at 2000RPMs,
2. kill 1 cylinder, can disconnect coils or use ECM controls to disable cylinders
3. without giving it more pedal see what the RPMs drop to about 50-100 RPMs is normal
4. repeat for all cylinders
5. the cylinder that drops the LEAST amount of RPMs is ususaly your bad cylinder...
1. hold RPMS at 2000RPMs,
2. kill 1 cylinder, can disconnect coils or use ECM controls to disable cylinders
3. without giving it more pedal see what the RPMs drop to about 50-100 RPMs is normal
4. repeat for all cylinders
5. the cylinder that drops the LEAST amount of RPMs is ususaly your bad cylinder...
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CEL flashing means a spark misfire and un burnt fuel is being dumped out, spark misfire maybe to rich or a cracked spark plug, or the coil driver can't support the spark on the top end, try a cylinder drop test
1. hold RPMS at 2000RPMs,
2. kill 1 cylinder, can disconnect coils or use ECM controls to disable cylinders
3. without giving it more pedal see what the RPMs drop to about 50-100 RPMs is normal
4. repeat for all cylinders
5. the cylinder that drops the LEAST amount of RPMs is ususaly your bad cylinder...
1. hold RPMS at 2000RPMs,
2. kill 1 cylinder, can disconnect coils or use ECM controls to disable cylinders
3. without giving it more pedal see what the RPMs drop to about 50-100 RPMs is normal
4. repeat for all cylinders
5. the cylinder that drops the LEAST amount of RPMs is ususaly your bad cylinder...
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the flashing under WOT full load was what mind did when an injector connector had a loose wire in it. Under load the resistance was getting too high on the loose connection causing it to drop connection and misfire. Drove perfectly fine to work and back but acted up when i was wot hard.
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