soooooo yesterday i wash the car(im betting this has something to do with it) and install my catch can finally. today i hop in the car and fire it up, slip and traction control light come on at idle. rev the car and it dies. i check some connections at my ipdm and it fires up no lights. connect the haltech and my knock signal is bouncing like a retard on meth as is my intake air temp. tps and widebands have a slight bounce to them, the thing is my haltech is behind my center console no way water could have gotten to it.

thougts? did i mayby fry the stock ecu?


hmmmm looking around it appears my car isnt getting any signal to the throttle body checking it now.

 

ok well even when the slip light is off(comes on intermittently) car dies when trying to rev but doing idle relearn i hear the TB functioning


also reset the ecu so i have no lights at all now but still does it. traction control and slip flash quickly when ignition is first turned on though never noticed that before.

btw mods posted her due to the highly modified nature of the car.

 

Coincidentally I took my Z for a small drive as well! I got the SET light flashing rapidly. We both need to coin up and buy both new BCM&IPDM

 

my car will get rewired first =/ already had to rewire tails/parking lights because they simply did not turn on so i said f it. of course will get new throttle body too if i do that i just dont have the money right now.


wondering if water got on the ecu or ipdm and fryed it. this is such a pain i should have never washed the car

i dont think the throttle is sending a signal because im not getting any response in the haltech when pressing the pedal.


might be able to just go with the current haltech and rewire it. as far as i know i dont actually need anything from the stock ecu, the only concern is the speedo and if i can make that work without the can system.

 

I don't get mad at the sight of wires! What did you wire the brake lights to? Right now my interior lights no worky!

 

Did you take any sensor connections loose when you installed the catch can?

 

i wired it to ignition on so they are all on, temporary fix so i had lights. essential jumpered the ignition on in, to the output of the relay with a fuse on the jumper.

and sparkle i dint touch any wires doing it =/

ive read mention of cam sensors before but im firing on all cylinders before it happens, gona check again see what afr's do if they richen up and the car dies then i will no the TB isnt doing anything.

edit: that was a waste of time they dint budge, they are higher then normal for idle though 14.5 which usually are about 13.8............ but at the same time im not sure i can trust them with the way everything is going crazy.

 

something funky is going on, pedal inputs at the ecu show 12v............ so i prob have a short in the ipdm................again >.< amazes me how horrible of a design it is.

 

Any visible moisture on/around the BCM?

 

honestly dint even check it yet i dint see anything about the throttle going through there. i am contemplating a cable throttle body though because.............. well it gets rid of the speed limited, and eliminates this problem im having i believe. my spark isnt actually cutting so i know its not traction control actually working.

 

just messing around with connectors, connector e10/f1(one of the three connectors by the ipdm, closest to passenger compartment) poured water out when i unplugged it. no idea what this stuff goes to searching now but i think i might have found the problem.

 

^^^

picture of the connector

 

workin on it stupid phone is being gay i cant this thing anywhere which is odd because it has a rather large black and yellow wire in it. but i have noticed flooring it will allow it to rev like normal its light touchs they die. also testing my pedal tit seems sensor 2 hs no continuity between the signal wire and ground. sensor 1 is fine but sensor 2 is shot it seems, kinda odd for it to go out just sitting there though.



the nissan fsm is really crap =/ dont understand why they cant just put all the wiring diagrams in one section. not to mention somehow the headlights, knock sensor, throttle position sensor, and pedal sensor somehow all have about 13 wires going through connector f3/e12(right by this one) but the connector only has 6 wires(its 8 position but only 6 are used) i swear sometimes i think they pay the janitor to make this thing. oh yah now looking at it the maf goes through there too.

 

ive found this connector at least goes to the starter which could explain alot of issues ive had this entire time............... gona keep looking see what else i can find goes to this damn thing.

rewiring the connector with water in it did nothing except mayby help it start easier, the car is in limp mode apparently and i cannot figure out why, the only thing is i thought that wasnt possible with a haltech >.<

 

rawr me thinks problem solved, **** failsafe mode, abs, and pretty much all the crap i dont like

http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-829.htm

 

You should have just gotten a base :P

 

i bought mine used, the price was right. was winter time in ohio when i bought it kbb was a little over 15k when i purchased it, i bought it for 11k, 12k after tax title ect. but since i found that speedo which was my only concern im gona look into getting a cable, TB, tps, and a whole lot of wire, relays, ect this week. kinda unhappy about loosing copy through for the vacuum cells but im sure someone can provide stock values i can enter in.

this way i wont have to worry about any engine wiring and i can then slowly remove things like abs and add a brake proportioning valve ect. prob a line lock while im at it.

 

does anyone know what all signals are sent to the ecu to make it enter fail safe? like i know pin 110 shuts the throttle body when the brake pedal is pressed but are there other similar pins for say traction control or is that done over the can line? faily confident the traction control works by closing the TB not spark retard.

 

If it happened after you washed the car, then check the main harness boot above the battery coming in over the ECU for any leaks. If it's not 100% sealed it acts as a drain.

 

its definitly not sealed as i have my battery cable for battery in trunk run through there. only thing is. everything under the dash seems fine. originally i was thinking water got in there and prob fryed my ecu and would also explain crazy signals. but like i said was all dry when i checked. if that is indeed what happened though i hope it dint fry the haltech too.

car is def in failsafe though even if i floor it max rpm is 1500 and throttle dosnt respind to inputs unless floor. double checked and both are actually good. ill check again when i get home and also blow everything out with air and leave it unplugged to dry in case it is the case. if so prob fryed something though.