Rob did you ask steve if
He had the rpm hooked up? I thought his dyno had one but I dont remember for sure

 

^ this

 

steve said he had a rpm pickup, I'll probably try to use that next time instead of roller calibration.

 

I have a fully built IPT transmission with TQ (4700+ new) for sale 3500....If I can sell this AT Im switching to the th2004r, good for 1000 hp..gonna cost about 7-8k total for driveshaft, adapter, shifter labor etc.

Call Tim at Speed Force Racing in Santee CA and talk to him about the white z's IPT transmission. I have told him already that this was a maybe so he's clued in

 

3500 is a bit much for me. Probably a good deal but not when you were trying to get into a house at the end of the year

 

I've got a low mileage re5 for sale and a bnib alto upgraded clutch pack for sale... Maybe that would be a good choice?

 

I was considering just doing the alto clutch packs, I've already seen your FS thread and considered it.

I tend to do everything myself as far as work goes, mainly because I don't have money to pay others to do it for me. Although I'm scared to tear into the trans... from what I can tell they have a million parts in there and no one has a good tear down guide.

 

Yeah there truely isnt very much information out there on them. When i was looking at doing it the fsm seemed to have a pretty solid explanation on how to take it apart and put it back together though.

 

i'm not sure what all was said but that dyno does not show transmission slip.

The gear ratio on the dyno can be adjusted and if it's wrong then it won't display the proper rpm. This happened to me on a dyno before. It was showing that I was only getting to 5700 rpms and I was actually hitting 8k in the car. We did speed based pulls for a while then re-adjusted the dyno gear ratio calibration and got it back to normal.

The power will drop off if it's slipping. It won't just end like yours did. Yours was making power all the way until it just stopped. He needs to adjust the rpm pickup ratio. That or try a new dyno.

Also, like raj said, in osiris you will need to bump up your line pressure on the transmission to get it to have nice solid shifts on the street. I tuned an auto 350z back in may and it felt like it was slipping on the street. Raj told me to increase the line pressures and the crisp hard shifts came back. You only need to do it in the upper rpm ranges where it shifts. I think I did it in the 5800 rpm and above cells. I tripled the value that was in the cells and it shifted awesome. That will not change anything on the dyno though since you will not be shifting the car on the dyno.

 

line pressure was already bumped during tuning. I'm also not so sure its slip but it does seem like something is going on. maybe I'm just paranoid...

I did a log on cipher on the ABS system maybe you guys can make something of this? this is a 1st to 2nd shift going to 3rd.

 

soo I just found something out that I think may have been part of the problem related to lack of power.

You know that gold thing that goes on the lower plenum before you bolt it down? yeah well I found it laying on the bench in my garage. Opened up my plenum today and noticed it wasn't installed. can't imagine that was good for anything, but also not really sure how much it could have affected it. I'll drive it tomorrow and find out I guess.

I feel pretty stupid, as many times as I have installed and uninstalled this thing I can't believe I forgot to put it in.

 

Did you get a dyno run in with rpm pickup yet? I still kind of think the calculated RPM's on the previous runs are wrong.

 

nah not yet, I've been pretty busy with other things... something was def. wrong still not sure. I've been driving the car for the past week and it has felt fine

 

You could just log rpm's in cipher too... at least as a sanity check to make sure you're revving as high as you should.

 

just like to update this.. pretty sure its related. trans doesn't want to go into 5th anymore. it says its there, but the rpms associated feel like 3rd.

 

"No idea what the heck that is" = I believe that is the torque converter unlocking... Is your torque converter built?

 

he's on stock TC i'm sure

 

If it is a tranny problem, you can smoke it, doing what your doing........

Check fluid on the stick for color, if it's not a nice translusent Bright Red and looks more like dark brown, then the fuid is Burnt, and you'll need to find out why.

It also could be a Valve Body Problem, or electronics.

Check the fluid, then check back. Also add details about trans, and how it been used.

 

If your transmission is toast, don't worry about it and just message me LMAO.

I have that re5 still sitting in my garage and I'm willing to get rid of it for dirt cheap...

 

when I had my vortech, the car pulled well all the way to redline with the 3.12..once I changed to the 2.87 w/o the fluid dampner, I had great low end but car ran out of breath at higfher rpms (overspinning SC) with your 2.87 and fluid dampner you are probably overspinning by 5,000 or so rpms....If you have the 928 wheel, its good for another 5 K rpm...even still, mine felt slower on top with the 2.87...

FWIW