So quick summary
2003 6MT V35 (JDM)
New Competition Flywheel and Stage 2 Clutch (new slave, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, Chrome molly pivot bolt etc)
Complete engine rebuild inc cams, rods/pistons, uprev oil pump etc
HKS ST 3037 Kit upgraded turbo CHRA to 3582 and FMIC
Stage 2 AAM Fuel Return System, DW 300ltr pump
DW 800cc injectors
1 Step cooler NGK Iridium Plugs
Utec with MAP sensor and Map selector, 750cc Greddy tune off website uploaded
Zeitronic Zt-2 Wideband with EGT
Boost Gauge with Oil temp and Oil Pressure

So engine was built professionally and injectors installed, i put on turbo kit, installed RFS, dad did flywheel and clutch and we put engine and trans back in. I did wire tuck also.

So with everything connected and Utec on, we take out spark plugs and crank over until oil light goes of. Put spark plugs back in with coil packs and it sounds like it wants to fire but wont..

Tried:
Just using stock ECU - hope this will not fry it as im using larger than stock injectors?
Tried 550 and 750cc tunes off Utec site
Double checked firing order
- everything above made no difference

Took coil pack off spark plug, got spare spark plug and turned over engine while spark plug in coil pack and letting it arc to engine block with screw hole grounded and it only sparks ONCE, none after...


I asked a Friend what could be the problem, he suggested to make sure flywheel was located on the crank pin locator, otherwise car wont start. i asked dad and he said oh **** i didnt see one, so we look at the old engine and behold there is a fricken alignment hole/pin i cant remember at the back where the flywheel bolts on.

SOOOO now ill have to unbolt trans and align it, we took off the sensor at the bottom of the trans and when i was cranking engine, dad could see flywheel was not rotation 100% true..

My question, would that cause the issue and does it relate to the spark plug issue or is that something else, if so what else can i check.

Thanks

 

sounds like you guys are on the right track with the flywheel. Sucks you have to drop the tranny.

 

Anything else it could also be ? Dropping trans will suck ... About to do it now

 

So 7 hours of dropping trans, fixing the flywheel so its now lined up with locator pin (pin had been hammed in by engine builder...) but its bolted in so its in the right position, but still not sparking more than once ... Any ideas?

 

Check the crank pos sensor for damage.

No codes?

 

How do i check sensor?

I am borrowing a OBD 2 scanner tomorrow so will check then.

 

Just remove it and inspect the tip. Its under the car on the bottom of the bell housing.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply, yeah we pulled it out before we took trans off to see if we could see flywheel rotating, it was not 100% as it was not loacted right... but sensor looked fine. I have a spare so ill try that too.

Anyway to test resistance of it ? what it is supposed to be, any other things to check for only 1 spark and nothing more?

 

FSM has all those details. It is readily available online if you look for it. It goes over the testing with a voltmeter.

 

Ok so i have similar issues to this thread (cam angle sensors)]]http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/370359-diy-cam-position-sensor-easy-version-15.html#post6682938

I have 2 sets of cam angle sensors from 2 previously working engines
only one camshaft position sensor.

I tried the testing for pins 1 + 2, 1 + 3, 2 + 3,
resistance in ohms was:
Passenger side: .8xx, .8xx, 1.2x (both sensors)
Drivers side: .7xx, .7xx, 1.2x (other sensor was 3.6, 3.6, 1.2) so pins 1+2 and 1+3 way different...
Camshaft position was .8xx, .8xx, 1.2x
Knock sensor (had a spare) .5xx
Oil pressure 43xx

Cant find any info to what they are supposed to be.. in service manual says 1.5V... when running... but u cant test pins when running

So i swapped out passenger sensor first and car started for the very first time, ran smooth, idle like 600 rpm, VDC, Slip and CEL was on thou.. Car ran for about 1-2mins and i was quickly trying to bleed air out of radiator, water was coming out of bleed screw and then engine cut out... not sure if water was coincidence..

So i tried to turn car back on, no go. I swapped out the drivers side sensor and car still no go. Checked error codes got p0340 (which is passenger side sensor), i swapped the drivers side as i didnt know at the time and reset ECU, tried starting and no go, now i get code 0350, so i swap passenger side sensor and still 0350..

Any ideas? I mean is it possible i have two sets of faulty sensors?? Or has the timing of the timing chains not been done correctly by engine builder and sensors cannot figure out what is going on?

 

I would take out the UTEC while you troubleshoot. They are flakey at best. Car should still run (rich) but it'll eliminate alot of failure points until you iron things out.

 

Please tell us you turned the engine over with a wrench before you put it in the car.

 

The sensors may test good all day, but you need to check continuity to the ecu for a break in the wire from the sensor. Also, when reinstalling a motor or tranny, both mating surfaces should be cleaned/slightly sanded. If you can't remember if the surfaces were clean, add a ground wire from the engine to the tranny side.

 

I have tried starting car without utec but no go, and would it even run with 800cc injectors ? Wouldnt it damage ecu running with 800cc injectors?

This was done after it was built, not immanently befor eit was put in car, it was only just built, can you explain further?

yep surfaces were clean, i have a massive thick ground wire from trans to negative terminal on battery, you say i should move that ground to a bell housing bolt instead so its both trans and engine?

The car was running smooth, would it run for a few mins if it wasnt turned over first with wrench and timing chains off by a tooth or so ?

Does anyone have any links to how exactly timing chain is supposed to be done. I have a pic of the timing chain and markings. ill post it up

 

You haven't said anything the about checking the connections from the sensors to the ecu. The chains should be fine, it seems like an electrical problem, crank pos sensor.

 

Apart from visual inspection how else can i check them?

Again was running successfully for 1-2mins

The cam angle sensors plugs are not 100%, when putting them on i connect them and then push down on the green connector and then continue to push down on the plug and you can hear it click on, but the locking mechanism in the plugs must be broken as i can then pull it off without pushing anything but they are on the sensors until you use force to pull them off. The car was started with them like this.


Thanks, im going to use carb cleaner/electrical cleaner on the plugs around the area the bleed valve incase of poor electrical connection like p3050 suggests. ill also make sure ecu/utec is grounded correctly and trans/engine is grounded.

 

But the crank sensor should pick up from the timing ring on the flywheel and tells the ecu when to send the spark signal.

 

So positioning of the chains does not matter much?

I cleaned all connectors and went back to all original sensors and it started for few seconds and then would not again, gave p0340 error so i put the spare passenger side sensor in and this time it was misfiring or backfiring but sounded almost like starting but didnt... p0340 error gone and now back to p0350 - i made sure ecu and utec are well grounded.

May have to just take it to tuner and let him sort it out

 

Why not go out and get 3 brand new sensors straight from nissan. These are POS parts that are known to go bad. I am sure you have dumped THOUSANDS into your build. THrow another couple more dollars and get 2 new camshaft sensors and 1 crank shaft sensors. That should take care of those codes so you can move on to the next problem and come up with a solution or just post back.

 

Are these the ones;
http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/Item...984-118124.htm

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/Item...984-118116.htm

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/Item...984-118129.htm