So i brought the sensors, crank and cam, NOTHING has changed :/
OBD readers cannot connect to ECU ...

maybe time for haltech plug and pro..

 

So i get a new haltech ecu that replaces the ecu and still wont start but at least tuner has more info on what is going on. He could get no change in RPM from 0 with the new bank 1 sensor in and crankshaft position sensor, we swapped the NEW cam angle sensor back to one of my spares and we got a reading but it jumps from 0 to 2-300ish and then down to 0 again.
I did not have new bank 2 sensor but had 3 others to try from working engines and none made a difference, i even swapped the new crankshaft sensor to old one and still no go.. so far the NEW cam angle sensor is dead somehow.... anyway i have ordered ANOTHER one and the bank 2 so i will have 3 brand new sensors all OEM....


So it comes down to the Haltech being fussy and not liking the flywheel my tuner thinks.. so i need to get one we know will work and is very well made..
My 2 friends with the new haltech ecu have got Exedy Twin and Nismo copper Twin.. so now im off to buy a Exedy Twin.. Ill try GTM and see if they can help me out


Pics update
Intercooler in, bonnet and fenders back on


Off it goes to tuner in Australia !

 

Update: Still not going...
New Haltech Plug in ecu - diagnostics tells the tuner its not getting cam angle sensor signals...
Got entire new set of sensors as it wasnt detecting the new bank 1 cam angle sensor so i got a replacement and also the bank 2 sensor and new crank position sensor
At the same time i ordered a GTM Exedy Twin Clutch as Haltech said it was the flywheel not being detected.

Spark plugs were fouled (some still looked unused) so got a new set LRF6AIX-11

Installed the flywheel making sure alignment pin was in right position, everything torqued, clutch was aligned with the flywheel correctly.

Started car, with clutch and sensors and plugs, no firing at all (previous just one cylinder wanted to).

Swapped the ecu back to OEM and now i can hear it trying to fire again..

WTF,,,

Spoke to a mechanic who had to fix a similar issue on a 350z, turned out the engine (Revup) had a rebuild and the mechanic mixed up the intake and the exhaust cams.. I had had pics taken while engine being built and i can see the cams on the intake side (where sensors are) have the 6 notches so its not that ..

Someone else said it may have been a security issue stopping the car from starting - any way to test this?

And another guy had a issue with crank position sensor needing to be moved on a angle, then it worked..

Is it likely timing is out? if it started in the first place could timing even be out (timing chain slip on brand new tensions and chains?)

This is BS.. sick of this ****ing car

 

I am having the same issue. My OBD scanner can't find the ecu, and neither can my tuner. I don't understand why. I guess i'll have to buy new sensors and try it. or maybe it's my ACT Flywheel....it's annoying.

 

not sure if it helps but i had almost same issue yesterday with my new fully built motor. spacing from my crank position sensor and flywheel was off because i installed a o ring on the sensor thinking it needed it. well took the oring off. and reinstalled allowing the sensor to enter hole more and straight on. and boom. started right up

 

Sounds like an electrical issue to me especially since the ECU doesn't detect. Something jacked up in the harness, engine grounds, or maybe even the ECU itself. The other thing could be cams not aligned correctly. A local Z guys had a crazy non-start issue like this on a new motor and after months of dead ends pulled the motor apart and there was a problem with the tensioner which caused the timing to jump.

 

I have more issues now but problem was the short intake cam had a section of tooth break off, possibly 1.30mins after it first started and then sensor could not read the cam and no longer sync therefore giving cam sensor errors.. Replaced the cam and started. But now no boost, duty cycle on "850" cc injectors has run out at 200rwhp, fuel regulator 60psi at 0 boost and drops to 50 at 5psi.. Turbo will not boost past 2-5psi...

 

I had same problem with my build literally 4days ago. It ended up being timing. I tore it all apart and found I was 180 off..so I fixed that and she started up like a boss first time after fixing. Things to check on timing...make sure that the right bank exhaust cam is lined on with the round dots and color coded chain marks. The left bank exhaust cam is completely opposite. You have to line the chain up with the two line marks..if you line it up with the dots your 180 degress off on that cam..there are two line marks and two dot marks on the exhaust cams. I made that mistake once. Anyways just redo your timing even if you think it's right. Can't hurt.

 

Thanks, the engine builder did that for me. It has been running but just not making boost or getting enough fuel :/

 

I would ditch the Utech and do an uprev tune. Not sure if ur using anything else at this point already but I'm not reading everything. Lol. Pump failure? Coilpacks going out or hooked up out of order? Huge boost leak somewhere?

 

Im using Haltech Plug and Pro (brand new version)
Well im getting 60PSI at 0 boost but then drops upon load so wtf... can a pump be ok then just die under load? How can i test this?

Coilpacks are in correct order, not running lumpy or anything, tested intake to pre turbo IC piping and no leaks.. not sure where else it could be leaking.. or how to test

 

This sounds like a tuning issue. Who's doing your tune?

 

What are you doing for your manifold pressure reference lines? Did you tee everything off from the same spot?

I think the vacuum lines on your car are messed up...