OK guys i just want to give you an update.....i recieved my greddy twin turbo kit last wed and the car went into the shop the same day......we went ahead and ordered pistons (8.5:1), rods, upgraded clutch and a new fuel pump. We are planning on running 15 psi for hopefully somewhere around 500hp!!!

here is a rough add on how much its costing

6200 for turbo kit with intercooler
220 for profec b boost controller
125 for greddy blow off valve
75 for greddy turbo timer
500 for pistons
800 for rods
1200 labor on installing turbo
3000 labor for putting in pistons/rods/pulling out/ putting in motor
600 for new clutch
150 for new fuel pump
200 for boost and egt gauge
40 pod piller

TOTAL: 13110

we are planning on running 15psi for 500hp

damn this thing is getting expesive....i already have about 12-15k into the car for bodykit and rims and etc.

but this is in tampa, fl so 20psi supras and z06 owners beware!!!!

 

take pictures!!! Sounds amazing.

 

yea i am going tomorrow after school to take pics of the motor out of the car and etc. the kit was beautifully packaged....greddy is amazing...i could have dropped the kit out of the truck and it would have been ok.............the aftermarket power steering cooler sucked so im staying with the current one.

the big problem will be more fuel....even with the additional aftermarket injectors....so we plan on connecting an injector into the intake itself to provide more fuel

 

When I pull my intake to install the injectors I'm gonna find a way to install some secondaries too! muahah!


Remember you could put the stock injectors back in the stock location and tap in the larger injectors and get em' fuel somehow. Then control those injectors with the emanage and let the stock computer control the stock injectors. I might just do it like that when I install the kit. We will see.

 

thats very true....let me know how you turn out....unfortunatley im not doing the work on my car......a perfomance shop is....i want to blame someone other than myself if it blows up j/k

 

unless someone like AEM releases a good standalone, I think using a Rebic IV EIC is the way to go on this car. Let the stock ECU handle vacuum to 0 boost, and let the EIC control an extra set of 6 large injectors to handle positive boost situations. That way we have the benefit of the stock setup to handle the idle and the timing.. might want to use the e-manage to pull some timing out of the top end. Then the EIC takes over and sprays lots of extra fuel when it's needed.

thoughts from people who know what they're talking about? (Z1/Adam and phunk/Charles, among a few others)

 

but yea with a AEM we are looking at an extra 1400 bucks correct? I could use technosquare to flash my ecu

 

AEM doesn't have an EMS application for the VQ35DE, and doesn't plan on one, either.

The TS reflash and a standalone ECU are worlds apart in functionality. TS can refine the fuel map and can alter timing, but they can't get around the fact that the car uses a MAF to measure air.. that's the primary limitation here. A MAF doesn't work under boost. That's why I was suggesting an EIC with a MAP input to drive secondary injectors under positive pressure situations. A standalone ECU is also a possibility, but we're limited in choices, and it's near impossible to achieve OEM quality idle and partial-throttle drivability with a standalone. Tuning it to that degree is just too difficult.

 

well this isnt my daily beater so i dont care about having oem performance....i just want to haul ***

 

AgentOrange,
What pistons and Rods did you get? Are they Forged? Your cost for those two items seems low to me. Did you get some kind of deal on them?

 

um yea the cost is low, the shop is giving me a good deal but if you want or anyone wants i can see about getting rods out to anyone else that wants them.......they are bulletproof rods and the pistons are je and rods from pauter

 

Where did you get the pod?

 

Hi,

Can you explain to me why this is a problem? My MAF is stock and after x rpm's it goes into open loop, I have went all the way up to 11 PSI!

 

open loop after "X" RPMs or after "X" throttle %? have you pushed 11 psi at part throttle or anywhere not 100% throttle? at what throttle position does the ECU hit open loop? 100%? 95%?

 

I actually did find one for the car but had a close matching one heated then molded to the a-pillar then froze into that form....

 

lol,

is that 4 questions to my one question? I asked a simple question; a good one. Doesn't matter does it if it's open loop it's a non issue was my point.

I have done 11 psi at part and full and there were not any symptoms of a maxxed out MAF.

 

P.S. My TB positioning on my A5T may be different than yours on a 6MT but making 11 PSI on "part throttle" would be very very hard if that helps. I was given numbers for my car for TBP and RPM in reference to open loop, my ECU program is car specific (to my car) so yours may vary but this maxxed out Math is FUZZY MATH and it doesn't add up!

 

My questions are based off your previous statement of RPMs being the switch over factor instead of throttle position. I realize 11 psi at part throttle would be probably impossible when that is your max boost. So do you have any answers to them?

 

Yes I do,

After the MAF thinks it is maxxed out it will go into open loop no matter what position the throttle is in.

I was at 100 % throttle to make 11 lbs of course.

Still applies to my 9 lb setup though.

 

If it helps further, I can go open loop at 5k rpm's at 7 PSI it all depends on how you drive the MAF just senses the air until it can't any more then rather than "max out" like was being theorized it goes open loop bro!