Stay away from Royal Purple
#23
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#24
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#26
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I have heard mixed reviews of RP.
I highly recommend that everybody stays away from Mobil1. That oil is garbage. I used it once on my supercharged Civic and ended up having super low oil after 2k miles. Switched back to AMSOIL and never had an issue for the next 10k miles until I traded it in.
I highly recommend that everybody stays away from Mobil1. That oil is garbage. I used it once on my supercharged Civic and ended up having super low oil after 2k miles. Switched back to AMSOIL and never had an issue for the next 10k miles until I traded it in.
Mobil one 0w 40 has tested well in UOA's.
#29
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Yup, what he said. Are you sure you didn't overheat? That will smoke a turbo, oil and head gasket in one easy step.
#30
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I was using Amzoil and then switched to RP because it was easier to find. Shortly after My engine started smoking. I will know more this weekend when I plastigauge the rods and mains.
#31
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buying royal purple is pretty damn dumb anyway, rp's anti wear package is compromised of the traditional ****(zddp) but even the reformulated rotella diesel oil has more(they run 1200-1300 depending which one it is) the rp street oil is 900 there race oil is 1100(at least it was last lab result i saw for it, all ppm obviously) the rp has a horrible pour point though(why people talking about it being like water when they get it at normal room temp) which also has a pretty significant correspondence to resistance to shearing forces and breakdown(lower pour points will usually take longer to break down from shearing forces, not always but most of the time) plus your paying 12 bucks a bottle for rp(the street one, the race ones are more) vs 15 for a 4 quart jug of rotella which could be argued is a better oil but in the very worst case is just as good as rp's "race" oil
Last edited by jerryd87; 04-19-2013 at 03:15 PM.
#32
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Seems like there is more info now. It isn't unreasonable to say that something changed when you switched to RP but that doesn't mean it's a bad oil. Maybe it was just a poor choice to switch brands. Things like this can happen when switching oils if the engine was broke in a certain way with a certain oil.
#33
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ive bitched endlessly about mobile 1 and wouldnt let it touch my engine never seen so many spun bearings on a oil before. never saw a stock lsx spin a bearing before except in the cadillac escalades which "required" mobile 1. in reality its the exact same engine as all the other iron block lsx's(lq4/9 or l92 is the exact same be it a silverado or a escalade) yet for every escalade we sold we had 2 in for spun bearings, never saw a single one of the gmc/chevy trucks in for spun bearings(which simply used bulk non synthetic kendal 5w30). the other caddy engines where even worse then that.
never met a mechanic at a GM dealership who would let it touch there cars either between the 2 gm dealerships i worked at and the 5 others i interacted with on a daily basis(dealers buy and sell cars and parts amongst each other to get stuff the same day instead of waiting to get it from gm)
never met a mechanic at a GM dealership who would let it touch there cars either between the 2 gm dealerships i worked at and the 5 others i interacted with on a daily basis(dealers buy and sell cars and parts amongst each other to get stuff the same day instead of waiting to get it from gm)
Last edited by jerryd87; 04-19-2013 at 03:24 PM.
#34
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I don't know all details about your specific incident, but also consider:
If the turbo bearings are going bad, the turbine spins more slowly and doesn't exhaust heat as efficiently...and heat builds up. Excessive heat could then cause breakdown of the oil. There are other factors that can cause turbos to overheat. In other words, maybe another problem caused the breakdown.
Also, was there a thermal breakdown in the rest of the engine? I mean...your engine is still fine, isn't it?
I'm just suspecting that the "egg" may have been the result, but the "chicken" caused it.
If the turbo bearings are going bad, the turbine spins more slowly and doesn't exhaust heat as efficiently...and heat builds up. Excessive heat could then cause breakdown of the oil. There are other factors that can cause turbos to overheat. In other words, maybe another problem caused the breakdown.
Also, was there a thermal breakdown in the rest of the engine? I mean...your engine is still fine, isn't it?
I'm just suspecting that the "egg" may have been the result, but the "chicken" caused it.
#36
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mobile1 since my vq's birth... 30k n/a and 35k boosted, 500+ track runs. UOE's STILL show less than stock wear levels. I'd say mobile1 is doing just fine...
everyone is so quick to blame oil but i'd put money down that something else is the root cause of your issues.
everyone is so quick to blame oil but i'd put money down that something else is the root cause of your issues.
Last edited by djamps; 04-20-2013 at 06:53 AM.
#37
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RP is actually more expensive than amsoil also. You can buy Amsoil online or any local dealer. Hek, u can become a dealer if u want and easily get a discounted price through their website. --so is actually more less expensive than RP than already is. Idk I'm w Amsoil and I don't think any other is the blame for any damage at all.
#38
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buying royal purple is pretty damn dumb anyway, rp's anti wear package is compromised of the traditional ****(zddp) but even the reformulated rotella diesel oil has more(they run 1200-1300 depending which one it is) the rp street oil is 900 there race oil is 1100(at least it was last lab result i saw for it, all ppm obviously) the rp has a horrible pour point though(why people talking about it being like water when they get it at normal room temp) which also has a pretty significant correspondence to resistance to shearing forces and breakdown(lower pour points will usually take longer to break down from shearing forces, not always but most of the time) plus your paying 12 bucks a bottle for rp(the street one, the race ones are more) vs 15 for a 4 quart jug of rotella which could be argued is a better oil but in the very worst case is just as good as rp's "race" oil
I run shell rotella synthetic. We put it in our high boost diesel semis with over a million miles on the engines. I've used it in all my race bikes as well as cars with no problems. Look up lab results from any university that does petroleum testing (don't look up tests done by petroleum companies). Rotella actually rates one of the best and it's way cheaper than anything close to it.
That being said, you can't blame oil break down unless you actually send the oil to a lab and have it analyzed. Until then you are just wasting your breath.
#39
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I used to be a oiler in a aircraft repair facility and change oil in hydraulic equipment and all kinds of mills and lathes and tractors and we had a oil test lab and the lab operator told me rp was one of the worst oils he had ever seen.
I don't know what his reasons were but he warned me not to use it.
I have used Mobil 1 for the past 16 years I have been racing cars and no issues so Far
I don't know what his reasons were but he warned me not to use it.
I have used Mobil 1 for the past 16 years I have been racing cars and no issues so Far
Last edited by 2bad240; 05-02-2013 at 09:04 AM.