binder

iTrader: (8)

Well, I personally don't pay for overpriced oil and don't trust the in house research from royal purple but that doesn't change the fact that you can't say the oil failed without a report.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

never said it failed just that it has a worse anti wear package then whats available for much much cheaper although iirc there are reports in the big sticky about how it has done poorly on the vq. the lab reports dont show pour point nor resistance to shearing only what is left in the oil. this is just a quick one i found which backs up the standard anti wear package in royal purple thats going to be damn near any other street oil for a gas engine.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1302957

binder

iTrader: (8)

The OP said the oil caused the failure

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

Again wouldn't run old RP but new stuff HPS is top notch. Good labs from what IV seen

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

my bad jeff was a little confused since yah quoted me lol, yah wifes focus gets w/e since its very very difficult to beat oil changes for $12-15(im pretty much just paying for the oil and filter) but my car dosnt get anything but rotella, running the t5 10w30, synthetic plus 1300 ppm zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus

binder

iTrader: (8)

I run the full synthetic rotella 5-40. Never failed me yet!

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah i looked at the t6 5-40 but my oil pressure was above 120 at idle cold and 60-90 at idle after warmed up because i deleted the oil squirters. the 10w30 is 90-120 cold depending on outside temp, and 45-60 hot

binder

iTrader: (8)

damn, why would you delete those? That's crazy that it would reduce pressure that much. Sounds like you should be using a 0-20 or something

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah i mean it is a pretty huge leak essentially right on the main oil galley which is like a inch in diameter. i deleted them because the wossner pistons dont have provisions for them and i wanted the 8.0:1 compression, dont have any issues though i wouldnt try a 20 weight oil with the 6766, MAYBY at 450 and under hp i dont see it holding up to a higher power level. i might get ahold of a spare oil pump and see what i could do to drop pressure. fabbing up quickspool setup right now for the 1.32 ar housing since SP has em on backorder and then ill be going back to the dyno for 30+ psi.

been fighting rheumatoid arthritis plus people needing help with their cars so time to work on mine is limited, go on the 15th for "genetic modifiers" is what pa called em and hopefully a permanent profile/meb. he dosnt wanna do it but its not his call its the actual doctors lol

Z33Garage

iTrader: (3)

Next time get Amsoil or Redline and have it shipped. Luckly I have a guy that practically lives next to me that sells Amsoil

nway2deepagain

[QUOTE=binder;10113108]I run shell rotella synthetic. We put it in our high boost diesel semis with over a million miles on the engines. I've used it in all my race bikes as well as cars with no problems. Look up lab results from any university that does petroleum testing (don't look up tests done by petroleum companies). Rotella actually rates one of the best and it's way cheaper than anything close to it.

That being said, you can't blame oil break down unless you actually send the oil to a lab and have it analyzed. Until then you are just wasting

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

I'm going to post a follow up from my previous post. Ran RP 5w30 HPS for 150 miles. Live 4 miles from work and I'd day daily I take it to Redline and beat on it. Also for additional info I have a valve cover leak. Not serious no spots on driveway just oil moisture spots around top of block. OK so update took my car to get headers installed and tune. Got a call saying I was a qt and a half low on oil. This is my personal second oil change with this car. Idk what previous owner ran but I haven't had this problem. Going to either buy amsoil or rotella 5w30 today and get this chit out of my car

Drako_MDx

I just don't trust any oil that needs a color dye... LOL