The FCON-V Pro is a stand-alone, correct?

I use an SAFC-II on my Evo but our cars (Being already boosted), tend to benefit greatly from the timing advance with mild mods. Once my cams go in and I throw in larger injectors, I'm getting some sort of reflashed ECU however. I don't want to have to worry about cold-start and idle problems with a bigger fuel system.

Does anyone offer or is anyone working on any kind of software reflasher for your ECUs? The DSMs have DSMLink and the LT1/LS1s have LT1_Edit/LS1_Edit. If anyone decides to make a similar program, that would be awesome for the emissions-necessary OBD-II people who want the best possible tune without a stand-alone unit. I'm holding my breath for one for the Evo.

 

.... Yeah, you can reflash your ECU with Techtom, it's not like LS1 EDIT though because it's done by a Vendor not yourself. Workks great though in open and closed loop mode.
LS1 Edit is software you run on your laptop and they give you registration for your VIN or something I used to drive LS1's.

Techtom is an expensive box and software (like 6k plus or more I beleive and it's NOT user friendly.)

I looked at the FCON but they didn't make a wiring harness for our car and I was told the CAN technology wasn't compatable with it and they would not be making a harness for our car. That was about 5 months ago. Did they change their mine.

 

i beleive the Jun 350z was using the FCON, but it also had a throttle cable, no fly by wire. I am still working out the FCON thing, hopefully to be able to start testing it in a couple weeks.

-Charles

 

Hey guys, can you give some technical reasons why the using a reflash of the ECU with the MAF on the Z is not a good idea for boosted applications.

To me it sounds like a decent way of doing things, and it seems like that's been proven out by a couple of the users. However, there are also quite a few who say it's a bad idea, but I am not sure why.

My understanding is that the MAF will eventually go out of range on a boosted application, at which point it will go into open loop mode. Since you've already tuned your car on the dyno you should be fine at this point. The only thing that is missing is something to add fuel if the boost goes out of whack. So, what are the specific areas of concern here? Just trying to understand this better.

Also, does anyone know if you can install a MAF with a wider measurement range, and is there a way to change an ECU parameter for this new range? Seems like if Nissan were clever they would have used some sort of variable for the MAF scale, and if you could find that you would be able to install a MAF with a wider range and then adjust the scale to compensate and be good to go. Has anyone looked into that at all?

Thanks,
D'oh!

 

All I know is it can be done, I think the ECU would read the new amount of air and compensate for it via voltage readings (stock form) or if you added a larger MAF for FI you could reflash to add the new A/F readings into your ECU. I would love a larger MAF, I do not know anyone making one, if I did larger MAF I would do larger TB too then reflash. Of course I am in the small minority of those that think the reflash on FI with stock MAF works fine but I am always open minded for ways to improve things.

I know some things as fact though, like the infamous Supra, there were different models some MAF some MAP both worked correct, am I wrong there it is what I hav read.

It is explained why at that Split Second link someone posted (the Vortech prepackaged timing box.) It shows how it works off voltage of the MAF **OR** with a MAP.

I read the entire site and I myslef am under the belief it can work both ways, I just think my setup is simpler with less things to go wrong, less tapping, hacking, adjusting, tuning , fuel lines etc.
Larger injectors rather than more and a reflash to control them.

The con to my argument is it is not a fix that is local to all, they cannot drive to LA like I did (twice now) so they are finding other ways to do it. I do not harrass them or discourage them because I understand their points and even try to help them with ideas and even links and pics when possible. We all should be together on wanting faster cars rather than saying A works but not B, they both can work, MAF or MAP.

Well that is the limit of my knowledge on the subject, the MAF maxxes out and goes open loop so it is not a problem, the Supra does the same thing on certain models, it works. The others can work too but from what I am reading as of 1-28-04 it is more involved, requires numerous Dyno's and makes less power and maybe slight hesitations becuase
A. The Aeromotive FMU starts fat then dips slightly lean at points just prior to it going to the next slide (it needs another slider.)
B. The timing is being pulled after it senses knock so there may be some hesitation. The flash pulls timing *before* the knock and the A/F is more consistant because it is programmed into the ECU not piggy backed. The solution for the non flashers using ATI is the Aeromotive, a Knock box and then a MAP tuner Ie Greddy etc.)

My way is yank out the POS red Aeromotive box that has been proven not to work correctly, reduce the fuel lines to one and beef up the stock injectors then flash to your new A/F after you are done modding.

Well, that's in in a nutshell.

 

Just a note, the MKIV supras have a MAF and MAP sensor...

 

WOW! Super impressive! Congrats and let us know how the adjustments go.

 

nice numbers, but what are the SAE numbers?