binder

iTrader: (8)

you'll need to beef up the supply line. The stage 1 still uses the tiny stock hard line. Either make your own stainless 8an or get one from charles. The large volume of e85 combined with that tiny hard line will increase resistance and you will lose a lot of flow from that 485.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

I think I might just have to upgrade to CJM’s stage 2 RFS then…

I recently ran into an issue with my car… it’s been running really rich at idle lately (also at very partial throttle ~5%), AFR in the 10’s… I noticed it about 800 miles ago, didn’t think much of it because the car was running great, hesitation gone, etc. …but I’m wondering what could possible cause this to happen? Any ideas?

phunk2

After the damper rails were made, the Stage 0 fittings were updated to space back the damper rather than remove it

I am not sure which fitting the OP has, but we will exchange it pretty cheap if he needs the newer ones!

phunk2

Agreed. The stock sending unit is already a tax on the 485's output and the stock plumbing isnt going to help. The more sources of pressure drop eliminated between the pump and the rails, the better... especially if going for 550+ on E85 through a stock sending unit. I will be curious to hear how well someone is able to balance idle fuel pressure / over-tank siphon vacuum off idle with such a large pump returning through the venturis.

phunk2

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? A clogged return side venturi in the sending unit could cause a fuel pressure spike, more prone at idle but a bad clog would cause it full time.

Im low on ideas about a spontaneously rich idle. Exhaust or vacuum leaks would make you read lean at idle.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

is your idle under closed loop?

Setup>O2 Sensors will tell you what RPM you are running closed loop.

If you are on closed loop, check your O2 feedback multiplier and see whats that's doing. Should be close to 1. If not you need to check your VE table.

That all assumes its not something mechanical.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input guys, really appreciate it.

Anyways, I finally downloaded the DLL files I was missing; here’s a screenshot of the Setup/O2 Sensors table:

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

Ahh forgot you had a 48 box. There is not internal wideband control.

How is your wideband integrated into the Proefi?

Regardless, the Proefi is not making fueling corrections, so if you are running too rich when the car is fully warmed up, its from the main VE table.

You can check your coolant temp corrections on the cranking page and your AIT under the fuel trims tab

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

I have an Innovative LC1 wideband O2 sensor, I belive it's wired into the ProEFI harness.

I think it could possibly be the wideband O2 sensor? If I was actually running that rich (AFR in the 10's) would I have a stable idle? Although, it's reading exaclty where it should be at WOT... The car's not smoking at idle either.

Thanks for your help!

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

I would suspect your sensor like you suggest. Tunes just dont change over night. And ya at 10:1 is would run very rough at idle.

Can you do free air recal of those LC1 sensors?

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the car idles great, the only thing that threw me off was the AFR in boost/WOT, it was reading in 11's, exactly where it should be... That's the why I thought the wide band O2 sensor was fine.

The Innovative LC1 let's me do a free air recalibration, I'll give that a shot... might just replace the sensor altogether since I have a new one anyways.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Update… after performing the free air recalibration the AFR is still reading in the low 10’s at idle… I’ve noticed that the ProEFI is triggering the following Faults:

- Ethanol Content Low Fault
- O2 a Target Variance EQ Exceeded

Over the past week I averaged 11 MPG… I didn’t go past half throttle the entire time, the car definitely seems to be running rich, not just a reading.

I’m at my wits end with this car… could my factory O2 sensors be causing this?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

neither of those 2 faults really mean anything. They can be arbitrarily setup in the fault manager

Are you flex fuel? I only avg around 12mpg on E85 city driving easily.

1st thing I'd do is go to the VE table and once the car is warm, select the cell that is highlighted under idle and every cell touching it and reduce the VE by 20%. Make sure that leans out the idle. There's no load so even if it goes super lean and stalls it will be fine.

You need to figure out if its a VE table issue or a mechanical issue

Nothing OEM contributes to the tune.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, on Friday I decided to replace the wideband O2 sensor, swapped it out and getting the same exact AFR reading (idle/partial throttle AFR in the 10’s).

I went back to your post (str8dum1) and I connected my computer to the ProEFI, started the car, found the highlighted cell at idle and on the VE table, and lowered it by 20%, did the same for the 8 surrounding cells. AFR shot up to the 14’s!

So, I guess it’s somehow a VE table issue and not a mechanical issue?

I guess I need to adjust the rest of the cells now too, the idle AFR’s consistently in the 13’s and 14’s, I just need to get the AFR up in the cells that I hit during daily driving, 20% throttle and bellow and below 3,000 RPM...

Thanks again Rich, I really appreciate all your help!

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

might be too late, but before you change the VE table, if you are seeing AFR off all over, you can make global changes by changing the setup>fuel system> primary injector offset. also make sure your base fuel pressure with no reference is set to actually what your FP reads. You can also play with injector flow rates.

But if you needed to make a 20% change, the fuel system changes are probably not what needs to be tweaked.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Well, I made the corrections Sunday night, I just trimmed the VE map below 2750 RPM & light load by 10% and 20% at idle (determined that light load range by looking at what range of cells (load) were being hit during “regular” driving).

I wasn’t sure if I’d want to make the changes global/throughout the map since the AFR was solid during WOT.

When I originally had my car tuned my tuner mainly did WOT tuning. After getting the car back I noticed some hesitation bellow 3000 rpm at light throttle, so I took it back to him and I think one of his employees did the “street tune”, seems like he dumped a ton of fuel at lower load to eliminate the hesitation.

So, the hesitation’s back but the AFR’s looking pretty okay... Need to install another fuel damper on the fuel rail now.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

So, quick update on my car… I just received my CJM Stage 1 RFS, going to install it along with DW 1000cc injectors, a Walbro 485 pump, and Continental ethanol content sensor (setting up ProEFI’s flex fuel functionality), hoping to install it next week and tune the following week!

Just wanted to share the update, it’s been so long since I’ve added a performance part to my car, lol…

steven350

iTrader: (11)

OP I notice ur from AZ. Any cooling mods? How's your temp level when your in boost?

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Actually, no cooling mods… stock radiator, stock thermostat, no oil cooler, A/C, stock bumper, etc.

Coolant temps have been pretty steady, no issues yet (car started overheat last month, but it was caused by a bubble in the cooling system)… I’m going to upgrade the radiator and add an oil cooler this summer though.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

you also need a zeitronix ethanol gauge to send out a 0-5V output, as the 48box does not take in the digital output directly from the conti sensor.

Also, can you pretty please lend your car to Jason so he can develop the cruise control functionality??? PLEASE He just needs to determine CANbus channels. He already got it working on the porsche and his corvette.