Tapping upper pan for Vortech oil return..help
So, I am a little apprehensive about tapping my pan, especially since vortech only sends the drill tool and no tap. So, i finally hunted down the "proper" tap needed and went to the garage to tap an old timing cover from my VW. I used the supplied tool from vortech after drilling a guide hole and went to use the tap, but the hole from the tool was too large for the tap....well, thats weird. I then took the supplied fitting which is to be screwed into the block after tapping, and the hole is nowhere near large enough to accomodate the fitting...wtf. Does anybody have the tools left from when they tapped their block i could buy/rent from you??
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From: Greenwell Springs, Weeziana
I would suggest getting an oil pan spacer that's already pre-tapped. Does two things for you: it's already tapped properly and it gives you the room to run a little more oil. I'm using the AAM but there are others out there.
Yeah, I'm running at JWT spacer and have the return line going to it. I know some people have a preference to tapping over a spacer due to gravity, but I have not had any problems in almost 90k miles.
I'm still on the fence about this with my Vortech setup, but I have until spring break to sort it. It'd be nice to avoid tapping the block, but if that's what has to be done, so be it. The extra oil capacity would be nice.
Last edited by kilogram; Dec 29, 2013 at 06:03 AM.
I tried to recall everything I could remember about CC pressure and it's just not coming to. Either way, the issue is if the headunit drains properly.
Which ever way you go, an oil pan spacer would not be a bad addition.
Which ever way you go, an oil pan spacer would not be a bad addition.
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There is no shortage of internet experts who "know better" though, regardless of whether they have actual experience or not. I ran into a lot of that when I stopped running blowoff valves on all my turbo cars several years ago.
ya 37/64 is an odd size bit. available on amazon etc, but not often in drill kits bc its very big.
9/16 will easily tap to a 3/8 npt. Just make sure you dont tap more than around 1/2 or less way down the tap. Obviously the tap is tapered so if you drive it down too far, you'll never tighten the fitting properly.
9/16 will easily tap to a 3/8 npt. Just make sure you dont tap more than around 1/2 or less way down the tap. Obviously the tap is tapered so if you drive it down too far, you'll never tighten the fitting properly.
Last edited by str8dum1; Dec 30, 2013 at 04:36 PM.
picked up this off ebay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310807656362...84.m1439.l2649
3/8 NPT tap.....fitting fits perfect! Thanks for all the input guys!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310807656362...84.m1439.l2649
3/8 NPT tap.....fitting fits perfect! Thanks for all the input guys!
if you go with larger boost you need to increase the drain line size too.
I am now running two half inch lines off of my blower. Just and FYI. Go with the largest line you can now off of the blower to the tap. Save yourself many blown seals if you ever run big power.
I am now running two half inch lines off of my blower. Just and FYI. Go with the largest line you can now off of the blower to the tap. Save yourself many blown seals if you ever run big power.
getting my hand in there required some David Copperfield magic...good luck getting a camera in there! lol Plus I have the metal shield undertray installed. Ill try to grab some sort of pic.
Basically I have one line at six oclock pos, and another at about 830 coming off the blower. I did tap the block per the instructions... reducer on from the half inch.
The other line goes the the AAM oil pan spacer, but I ran it on the passenger side to allow more oil to escape the blower. Figured shorter line, there is more change of build up.
928 motorsports has some good information on drainage.
I bet I could of saved a few hundred, had I known to change the drain line size per x amount of increased boost years ago. Ive put new seals in more than I have serpentine belts. lol. Getting about 3 years out of the HD Green Gates.
Still need to add my Fluidine 6.75in crank....too lazy...too happy with the car to mess with it. 1000cc injectors sitting in a box too.
Basically I have one line at six oclock pos, and another at about 830 coming off the blower. I did tap the block per the instructions... reducer on from the half inch.
The other line goes the the AAM oil pan spacer, but I ran it on the passenger side to allow more oil to escape the blower. Figured shorter line, there is more change of build up.
928 motorsports has some good information on drainage.
I bet I could of saved a few hundred, had I known to change the drain line size per x amount of increased boost years ago. Ive put new seals in more than I have serpentine belts. lol. Getting about 3 years out of the HD Green Gates.
Still need to add my Fluidine 6.75in crank....too lazy...too happy with the car to mess with it. 1000cc injectors sitting in a box too.
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; Jan 3, 2014 at 07:14 AM.
did you increase the supply line too? Or was the drain line restricting the supply line flow volume? Would make sense that the supply line was over pressurizing the housing and thus pushing oil past the seals.
Funny thing is. I can run 6500 rpms all day with zero issues...its only when I go over the 7K mark. This time I didnt fix it myself, i sent blower to 928, described my **EDIT** every two years rebuilds. They told me to read up on the drain side of things. I did so in one of their tech articles.
I also noticed my blower would get extremely hot. like crazy hot. I know it should get toasty but mine actually started to peel off the powdercoating.
so I have only had the car running about 45 days and only drove it about 6 of those days, so she is still set at 6500 rpms. 470rwhp
Ill push her once the weather gets above freezing. The high today in DC is 18!
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; Jan 3, 2014 at 07:53 AM.







