I'm starting the build on my Daytona Blue 2005 350z. I already have done a few simple mods, all of which are bolt on's so far.

Nismo Cold air intake (will sell once Vortech is installed)
Z1 intake manifold spacer
Z1 test pipes
HKS replica exhaust
Tein S-Tech springs
BLOX sway bars
New compression rods
Energy Suspension LCA bushings
Akebono front and rear BBK
JWT clutch and flywheel w/ braided clutch line and new MC and SC
Pioneer in dash DVD player
Zenclosures dual 10" sub box w/ Alpine Type R's



Stuff that I have collected so far for the Vortech setup:

Vortech V2 kit
All new bolts/spacers for install of Vortech bracket
All new silicone couplers with T-bolt clamps
All new idler pullies
New serpentine belt
New cog belt
2.87 pulley
New -4an oil feed line
New -8an oil drain line
JWT oil pan spacer with oil drain ports
AEM wideband gauge
AEM boost gauge
Autometer full a-pillar dual pillar pod
Polished one piece upper charge pipe
CJ Motorsports stage 0 fuel return system
Deatschwerks 600cc injectors
Deatschwerks DW200 255lph fuel pump
Turbo XS UTEC engine management system w/ MAP sensor
Piping to build a CAI for the vortech w/ AEM dryflow filter
Mishimoto thermostat
Cusco oil catch can
LFR6AIX-11 spark plugs (one step colder)

I plan on getting all of the charge piping powdercoated metallic red soon (similar to the AEM red that comes on their intake systems). I also plan to add an oil cooler setup and a water/methanol injection system to the build once everything is up and running. Everything will be on the stock engine for now, shooting for 400whp. After I get her running well with a decent amount of power, I plan to get a Nismo V2 replica aero kit from Shine Auto Project, as well as some nice wheels/tires, and a tint job.


I started in the Honda world with a couple of DA9 Integras. The first one had only bolt on's when I crashed it in bad weather. At the time, I had just finished collecting all of the parts to turbo it. I bought another one a couple months later, and ended up painting it myself and turbocharging it. I sold it not long after to buy a 4x4 to get to college and back. The next import I bought was a 1990 Toyota Supra that was NA. I converted it to turbo, built a 7MGTE engine, and put on a larger turbo and injectors along with all of the supporting mods. I sold the Supra to fund the purchase of my 350z.


Integra:

(I will have to find some pics of the DA9)



Supra:



The Z when I first got it:










The Z as it sits now:







The Z and my other current ride, a 2005 Duramax:




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How is the build coming along?

 

Nice transition..... GL

 

I had to work a shutdown at the refinery the last couple weeks, now it's time for an update! I've been working on installing the oil feed line, Turbo XS UTEC, fuel return system, AEM boost and Air/Fuel gauges, JWT oil pan spacer, etc. It's getting closer! I will post pics when there is something monumental to post!

 

Good stuff man, can't wait to see, keep us posted.

 

Nice build plan! Off topic but in your pictures it looks like you have akebonos on under the 1st gen touring 18's. How is the fitment? Did you need spacers?

 

Thanks guys, started pulling some stuff apart the last couple days. Should get a lot done tomorrow, I have the day off and am planning on working pretty much the full day on the car.

I do indeed have the Akebono front and rear big brake kit with the stock touring 18" wheels. It is a TIGHT fit, I was pretty worried about clearance when I first went to put them on, but there are no fitment issues whatsoever. I don't have any wheel spacers either. I plan on getting some staggered fitment 19's sometime in the future.

I will try to get some pictures of the progress up throughout the day tomorrow to keep ya'll in the loop!

 

Well I got the fuel pump installed, some of the fuel return done, and a few other miscellaneous things. I didn't work on it as long as I had planned, but will update again when I am back at it!

 

Nice progress. The photos make me feel as if I am there. .......

 

Glad to see someone using a utec for the vortech

 

utec is perfect amount of control for a vortech. super easy to tune as well.

 

I've been getting a little bit done here and there, and it is starting to come together. I found the cable for my camera too, so I have a few pics to upload.

Here are a few pics from when I installed my JWT clutch and flywheel not too long ago.







Deatschwerks 255lph fuel pump and the fuel return parts installed



Intercooler and lower piping installed



Deatschwerks 600cc injectors installed





Mishimoto low temp thermostat installed



UTEC bolted to the stock ECU





I decided to make a custom intake for the supercharger since I didn't like how Vortech designed their intake/filter setup.








Here is how I left it for the night





Hopefully I will have more progress to report and more pictures to post later on in the week. I think I made a good choice with the UTEC for my tuning needs, I researched a lot, and finally settled on this system over the UpRev. I can always get that later if I decide I would rather have it. I have heard it is pretty easy to tune, so that is a plus! I've tuned a few turbo Honda's, and a turbo Supra, so I have some tuning knowledge. I have never tuned anything supercharged, so this will be a bit different for me. I will probably get it running well enough to drive, then get it to a tuner with a dyno. There aren't any local tuners that I know of in my area, so I will probably have to take it to Seattle.

If anyone has any tips on tuning a supercharged engine, or the Z with a supercharger in particular, I would love to hear any tips or advice you could provide. Especially with regards to the timing map, and what would be a safe range to start out at with retarding the timing. I think I am going to use one of the Turbo XS base maps for 550 or 600cc injectors that they have on their site, but they are all for turbo kits.

 

I like the intake. That's how mine is as well. Pictures make thread way better

 

I want haha

 

This is awesome, I am planning on going this same route once my Z is paid off ( 1 year). I also picked up a used Utec on ebay that the user bricked trying to flash the rom. I force re-flashed it and got it running stable, so fo 40 bucks I think I got a good deal. So now I am sourcing the rest of the SC parts little by little when I can.

Great build!

 

Well, I got a little more time to work on the Z, and another update of the progress.

I did some work on my PCV setup today, got the hoses and fittings setup to run to my catch can. I bought a catch can that was supposed to be a Cusco can, but ended up being a counterfeit. I got a refund, and got to keep the can as well. I think I might buy a vented can instead, the knock off one is just an empty can that probably wouldn't do much. It sure is hard to find a good place to put a can in our engine bays, there isn't much free space!

I made this fitting to adapt from the bigger hose on the driver side valve cover down to 3/8", which is what the rest of my system consists of.





I also made a tee fitting that connects the passenger side valve cover line to the fitting I made for the driver side, and then will run to the catch can.





I made all of my vacuum tee connections for things like my boost gauge, MAP sensor, Bypass Valve, and FPR inside the battery compartment to keep the engine bay looking clean. I didn't want to have to look at all the vacuum lines.



I found a better spot for the FPR (in my opinion), and modified my mounting bracket to work in that spot. There was an unused tapped hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, so I decided to mount it there. The original CJM lines still work perfect, the only modification I had to make was to the gauge. With the gauge just mounted to the regulator, you couldn't see what the pressure was because it was too close to the firewall to be able to see it. I went ahead and got a 1/8" NPT nipple that was 2" long, and a 1/8" NPT female by female 90 degree elbow fitting. I used these to make the gauge face straight up for easy viewing during adjustment and any troubleshooting that I may have to do with the fuel system. I just have to get the return line ran, and my fuel system will be complete.






It's starting to look like it's back together again!




I started working on the gauge install tonight too, I got my Autometer full pillar pod mounted to my pillar, and the gauges are in the pod. I have to run all the wiring and hook up the sensors tomorrow. I already welded the bung for the O2 sensor into one of my test pipes. I just have to figure out the best place to tap switched power from, I am thinking either the radio, or the fuse box in the driver side footwell.

So my plans for tomorrow are:

-Finish up the gauge install/wiring
-Install test pipes
-Run the fuel return line to complete the fuel system
-Put everything back together that I took apart, put the bumper back on
-Fill engine with new oil and coolant
-Hopefully get it up and running and get it driveable

 

Well, so far today I have installed the test pipes, finished the install of the gauges, completed the return fuel system (PITA!!!), and put everything back together (minus the bumper). I am going to fill up the fluids, and tidy up a few things, then get a fresh start tomorrow to get her fired up and tuned! I'm excited to get her back on the road, it's been too long since I've driven something even semi quick haha!

 

The car is running and driving now, I am working on tuning it. I love the sound of the car now, its pretty awesome! One problem that just popped up, the bulkhead fitting for the return line that goes into the fuel pump assembly has developed a leak. I have it tightened down sufficiently, so I don't know why it started leaking. I will probably have to pull the assembly out to take a look at it and find a solution.

 

Awesome job, and gave me a few ideas while I'm installing my setup right now. How did you decide to wire the a pillar gauges?

 

I got the fuel leak fixed, the sealing washers that were supplied with the kit were pretty crappy so I put some different ones in and coated them with Permatex Permashield, which is a fuel resistant gasket dressing/sealant. It worked perfect, no more leak. I'm still working on street tuning it, although we have had a lot of rain which makes anything over 50% throttle pretty difficult to tune right now!

I wired the gauges to accessory power in the driver side kickpanel fuse box, and grounded them to a factory bolt under the dash that connects to a metal panel. I routed the wideband sensor wires and boost gauge sensor out the hole in the firewall that the factory ECU harness enters the cabin through.

If you are asking how I got the wires down there from the pod, I just cut a hole at the bottom of the factory A-pillar big enough for all the wires to fit through, and ran them straight down the hole that is exposed when you remove the A-pillar. It's pretty easy and straightforward once you just start working on it.

I have some more pictures to upload that I thought I already did, but must have forgotten.