Dreaming of keeping up with GTR and Vettes on the track.

 

V3 setup on the way , I need to get a R-Ryders charge pipe. Fuel rails and the rest I need to build my return system with the surge tank. I have an external mount 255 pump, may need to swap it to something else. Get a boost gauge, no idea where to mount it, don't really see it as that important except for tuning.

I'm just going to set everything up on the stock block , install my fuilddamper and run the 3.3 pulley get the little tweaks and stuff worked out before I toss in a fresh motor.

 

I didn't read anything on injectors, some GTR injectors (550cc) will be perfect with that 8lb 3.33 pulley. The Fluidampr will spin the blower a lil faster, less than one psi on top of the 7-8 you will get from the 3.33.

 

Got a set of ID1000's

Also have a 2.87 pulley coming, figure it out later if I run it or not. Won't be on the current motor

 

Ahh didn't catch that. Good luck, can't wait to see ur numbers and how u fair with those more powerful cars on the track.

 

Need to get parts on the way to complete my fuel system. Trying to figure out fuel rails, iD1000 injectors being used, it will be a return system, and power Goals are around 450 when I swap to the built block. Can I keep the keep the factory rails using CJM parts or do I want to swap them to aftermarket ?

 

If you cut off the ends and weld on -6 or -8an fittings they can handle what ever you want to throw at them. But you best bet is to get rails that have dampers built in so you don't go lean @3k ish.

 

the oem fuel rails will be good to 600. 450 is very modest and even those 1000cc injectors will be overkill and only make it harder to get a nice idle. just get a CJM stage 0 kit, walbro 255 or larger pump and youre set. If you're not going for more than 450, running new fuel lines and spending more money on the higher CJM kits is a waste.

with my RC750's at 400whp I was at 51% duty cycle. you just want to keep it under 80% to be safe.

 

I guess the CJM stage 0 fitting to adapt the rail would handle all.

 

The adapter would not make it handle anything extra, as the bottleneck is the ID of the adapter itself.

 

You probably won't need to go to the 2.87. We had to detune mine. It was pounding out 430-435 on a 3.33. That was on 93 instead of ethanol, too.

 

But is the adaptor just fine for the power level I'm looking at running ?

Was kinda hoping for 3.12 with fluiddamper would hit my goal.

 

Yes for your power levels the adapter will work perfectly. You don't need anything above the stage 0 kit. don't cut the rails and weld AN fittings on it as its a waste of time and heard its hard to get it welded good.

 

Cool, I was looking at stage 0, not going to buy it, I already have a regulator and most if the fittings. Also my return will go back to the surge tank, so their lines will not work.

 

I would try the fluidampr with a 3.33 first. That said, a 3.12, though. You can pull a little timing up top and flatten the power on the top end, too if it goes over. You'll be fighting belt slip and all of that with the crank pulley and a 2.87.

 

^I would suggest if more boost is needed after changing to the 3.12 is to change the Jackshaft cog from the 32T to the 34T and it will keep the same surface area for your serpentine belt. It will spin the blower a bit faster and produce about 1.5 psi. On top of the Fluidampr and 3.12 and 928M impeller combo I have on my Z, it makes 13.5/13.8 at 6600rpm with no beltslip.

 

The goal was to not run the 2.87 pulley , bigger pulley has less potential slip. Kinda thinking about the cog swap now with the 3.3 pulley . That may be a smart idea

 

Definitely go the fluidampr/cog route and and keep the 3.33. You should be able to do 440-450 w/o breaking a sweat.

 

You will not fight any belt slip, if you just get a Radius Rod.

 

The Tim-Rod?