As much as many people are against the burn rate for timing because it is so rarely used, it does make some sense. The flame front travels at a speed. Using Burn rate just makes a timing goal more independent of rpm where BTDC tuning is directly a function of RPM for the timing.
For example at 90%VE your burn rate timeing value would be 35ms. At 3k rpm or at 7k rpm it doesn't matter. If you set the same timing in degrees BTDC at 3k and 7k at full throttle you would have a bad time.

They are apparently better, and can allow for boost control with the stock ECU and *I believe some built in failsafes*. Sadly it is only for 2009 and up with no support for the HR. It also is not end user tunable and can only be tuned by a licensed dealer.

Sent.

 

Well I got to the dyno. I tuned at WG pressure at 6psi and then again at ~9 psi. It went well and the car feels incredible. I went in to it saying I wanted a very safe and conservative tune that would still daily drive well. The lambda gets down to .75 under boost above 4k. They had zero knock and the car is also not picking up any knock at any point with the stock sensitivity. I am sure more could be wrung out of it, but for now this is great and I have confidence in sending it. I did manage to crack the upper heater hose bleed coupler, so a new metal bleed coupler from Z1 is on its way.


This is the final 6psi graph.


This is the pressure vs power pull of the above 6psi pull. The (brandX) is DynoDynamics attemped adjustment to read more similarly to other dynos. I don't hold much credit to that number.


These are two of the final 9psi pulls.


This is the pressure vs power pull of the above 9psi pulls. The (brandX) is DynoDynamics attemped adjustment to read more similarly to other dynos. I don't hold much credit to that number.



@bealljk I'm hitting 9psi at 3600 rpm, so I am under the impression that the 1.15 is doing okay.

 

per your graph youre hitting full boost around 3800 to 4k rpm in 4th gear(likely - Most power-pulls are done in 4th gear) Looks good man! I'm happy that's not an issue...

Obviously your boost level will depend on how the engine is loaded...I don't know that you're gonna hit 9psi in first or second gear at 3600rpm but once the engine has some load and the blower has had time to spool-up that sounds about right.

You've got a HR built block and did you say you are looking for 550 to 600hp? Were you gonna aim higher than 600hp?

If you straight-line your boost line you'll need around 18psi to 20psi of boost to hit 600hp and thats gonna occur around 4600rpm to 4800 rpm +/-. If you've got a 7500rpm redline, that gives you 2700 RPMs at full boost ... which isnt bad, it is what it is. Further the discussion - it looks like you're making peak torque at/around 4500 to 5000rpm +/- ?? so it looks like your blower will optimize that torque curve?

I personally think it's too big but that's just my opinion - a slightly smaller AR will give you full boost before peak-torque.

Lets revisit this when I get tuned with my 1.01 and it may shed some light on if a 1.01 is too small.

Good on ya! great results and always a good day when the car rolls off the dyno under it's own power!

 

So I wasn't happy with the first tune. The afr's were always hunting, the idle and rev hang was GARBAGE, and it seemed like it should be making more power than it was/ what others have made with this kit at this pressure on this motor. I reached out to a few of the big shops to get recommendations on what I was seeing with my tune and what to do about it. I ended up planning to do a dyno tune with Admintuning in Houston. I had a trip planned to Tail of the Dragon in early August, so I scheduled the dyno day for July 20th. A few days before the dyno day I got sick, which threw a huge wrench into my plans. I rescheduled the dyno day til after my trip to the dragon and reached out to Admintuning about doing a safe etune before hand. He has tuned quite a few of these kits, and even a couple others at nearly identical mileage as mine. (180k). The etuning was pushing it on having enough time, and I ended up trailering my car out to the dragon and got the final etune map flashed about 15 minutes before our group left for the first day of driving. The tune was so much better. Night and day on the smoothness, and power.






After the trip I went back to Houston to get the final dyno tune on the car. The tuner did a great job, and picked up quite a bit of power from the previous tune. The car is mind bending to me now. It also still made the 5 hour drive from Houston back home with zero issues and felt like it did cruising NA 6 months ago except quieter. Getting right at 23mpg at 75mph on the drive back when I filled up and calculated it. Super happy with how it turned out.


Next week the GKTech lower control arms go on, so that should be interesting.

 

Got the GKtech arms on. Completely solved the issue I was having with loose sphericals. The arms are quite beefy, and a bit of a pain to install in my particular case. They seem high quality though. They also added a ton of clearance from the turbo piping. My compression rod was smashing my cold side piping on certain turns and these eliminated that by eliminating the compression arm.



An extra shot of the hot side with the brace off

 

I am having some weird idle oscillations sometimes that seem to follow the behavior of the evap solenoid. The fsm seems to say that the evap is not supposed to open lower than 2k rpm, but this is at 900-1000 rpm idle and it is cycling. I tossed a screenshot of the log below and can share the log if anyone is interested. It almost seems like I have cracked my charcoal canister that is allowing it to behave like a vacuum leak controlled by the evap solenoid.

 

Just an update.

The car is still running great. The idle oscillations ended up being related to the header to midpipe gaskets leaking and messing with the Ox sensors. I tried the gaskets that came with the kit, Z1 metal ones, and have finally found that the Zspeed copper gaskets to be the most successful. Ideally I will go to vbands, but I am in no rush to pull my headers, so I will bundle that with a future project.

With the GKTech arms.... man is there a lot to unpack there. There are a few absolutes about the GKtech system:
The rod ends are garbage. Total junk.
It is a drift focused steering setup with very little Akerman and a ton of castor.
It binds up the sway bar endlinks.
They will widen the front track width by 2" minimum.

The GKtech front lower control arms failed on me. The front driverside lower control arm failed at the rod end that connected to the k-member. Thankfully this occurred pulling into my work parking lot, and the accident was minor in damage. Had it happened going over a bump on the interstate 10 minutes earlier the car would be totaled. The failed rod end allowed the LCA to disconnect from the car and the wheel and tire to smash back into the body. The tire and my driverside fenderliner were the only damage and have since been replaced. I have more images of the failed rod end if anyone is interested in their **** design.

My immediate remedy was to replace all of the rod ends with high grade aurora rod ends. A few hours of work later and I was confident that the control arms would not snap off of the car again. I was still having issues with my 285 with tires in the front coming in contact with my fender, and at 2.5 degrees of camber, I was already running more camber than I ideally wanted.

I owe bmccann101 for the idea, but he posted that FDF fab had released an aftermarket compression rod that would work with the OEM lca. This is honestly what I had been looking for the whole time to fix the clearance issues caused by the OEM compression rod and turbo piping. After a really good phone call with Josiah and a few emails to make sure we were on the same page, I ordered the FDF arms and got them powerdercoated purple. The install wasn't too bad, although my KW coilovers have decided that the composite seats don't want to spin as freely as they once did. I finally got them all wrapped up and am very happy to have the OEM steering feel and OEM track width up front. hopefully this setup lasts for a while.





I have a trip to tail of the dragon in a few weeks that should see quite a few spirited miles on the setup again and hope everything goes smoothly. I need to put this Amsoil in the rear diff because I doubt the Tomei is happy with the 20k mile fluid that is currently in there. That and an oil change/turbo grease and it should be ready to go.


I just rolled over 192k miles, so right about 10k boosted. Looks like I should be about 1/3 of the way through the recommended turbo rebuild schedule. I did a check on bearing noise and play and it felt just like the day I got it, so here's to hoping that continues to run smoothly.

 

Very nice, I’m pulling my DE motor soon and building it up in the next few weeks. The plan is to get the BP turbo kit. I hope my build and kit goes smooth. I’m currently talking with Sasha now.

 

So after the trip to Tail of the Dragon in August, I was starting to get some rear end noise. Above about 60mph the car was howling pretty good to the point I new something was wrong. I made sure it was not the exhaust resting on chassis by simply turning the motor off in neutral on some low traffic roads at 60.
I checked the wheel bearings for play and found none, even though they are the original bearings in the rear. The one thing that kept pointing to wheel bearings though was that at 60+ mph the noise would go away when turning and loading up the rear of the car.

I have read all of the data about the 370z rear wheel bearing swap and felt that this was a good time to put these on to replace the much smaller 350z bearings. This meant I also needed the 370z axles. I found a local set of low mileage 370z components and scooped them all up for less than the cost of one new oem bearing.

The install is easy but once everything was back together I was checking fitment and realized that THE AXLES ARE TOO LONG. Regardless of what all of the other people that run these say, the axles are bound up and too long. When removing the spring and cycling the suspension I could audibly hear the axle bottoming out on the inner diff flange. There are quite a few big name companies that sell these axles and bearings as a kit for the z33 chassis, and while it will bolt up it does not fit correctly and will lead to premature axle and boot wear. Poor engineering on those companies part. The drift guys also run them, but I have come to realize that their saving component is the fact that they all run a dual caliper bracket. The dual caliper bracket spaces the hub just the right amount to let the 370z axle function properly and cause no issues.

I ordered a dual caliper bracket and will install and remeasure to make sure that the axle has enough play to go through the full suspension travel. I find it interesting that this is the second component on my car that is designed for the drift community that is a solution to my non drifted car. It is also a bit frustrating on the number of people that blindly follow what others say will work when there is so obviously a problem with this swap.

 

Just rolled over the big 200k. Still stock untouched motor. Still making boost like mad. This marks 20k miles boosted with this kit and it is still going really well. It is still my daily and it has not missed a day. A few updates from this past year: I ended up switching to a Z1 34 row oil cooler that I mounted in the location of the OEM washer reservoir. A few rivnuts and the bracket it came with and it mounted up very nicely. I also picked up a provent100 oil air separator to plumb into the CCV lines to cut down on the under hood oil vapor. I don't really have any major plans for the car at the moment other than continuing to drive it and enjoy it.

I am starting to wonder how many cars out there are boosted at this kind of total mileage and also how many have 20k miles boosted.

 

Seems like today is the day that the alternator decided it had given up. On my way home from work the battery voltage dropped to 12, and the battery light came on. The car would only get the voltage above 12 volts above 2.5k rpm and with the ac and headlights off.

So I picked up a ultima with a warranty and I’ll hope I don’t have to do that again. My koyo rads prevent me from fitting a breaker bar into the pully tensioner, so step one is draining coolant and removing the fan shroud. I always end up making a mess pulling the upper rad hose, and I hate this process.

Hopefully this alternator makes it another 200k miles.

 

Great thread, and glad to hear your Z is still running strong. Looks like you did things right despite some hiccups along the way. Enjoy it! I'm in for future updates.

 

i think we alll spend too much money/time on z cars, what you think

 

Thank you!
I aim to do things right, but I have been bitten a few times by what I thought was right only to learn that the companies/product fell short.

Its been quite a while since I have had an issue before the alternator, so I am thinking I have finally gotten the kinks all worked out.

 

True, but a good turbo spool every morning reminds me that its worth it.

 

Just got back from my annual trip to Hwy 129, Fontana Dam in NC. It was a good time. We did 129 many times, along with the Cherohala Skyway, Hwy 28, and the southern side of the Blueridge Parkway.

We had rain. A lot of rain. Most of the drives were in the damp and a few were in the torrential downpours of rain. The BP kit is a little sketchy with the intake so low, but I have full under trays and it never missed a beat. I had zero issues with the car. The tire setup still continues to amaze me, even in the pouring rain it has an absurd amount of grip. I have 285/35r18 Mich PS4S all the way around.

We towed our cars(mine and my buddies r32 GTR) out there with a two car trailer and a LMM duramax... That was the worst part of the trip. The truck had heat issues and DID NOT like the mountains north of Birmingham. We made it to Murphy before deciding to call it quits on the drive out there and parked the truck and unloaded the cars and drove them the rest of the way. We struggled coming back too, and were limited to about 60 mph and no cruise control with the heater on full blast to keep the temps in check... Would not recommend.

Here are some pics:

 

Looks like a great trip! Sorry about the road conditions being wet and trailer issues. I love driving the Tail of the Dragon, but the Cherohala Skyway is so much fun with those long sweeping mountain curves. I'm still a little bitter that ZdayZ changed locations...

 

nice dude, great pics. Thats a heavy haul for that truck for sure. Def. need something bigger.

 

Yeah, the truck is rated at 16,700, and we were right at 12,900. We thought it would be alright, and it definitely drove fine and stopped very well. It even towed comfortably on flat ground. I think were going to do a Intake and exhaust clean out and then probably a new radiator and thermostats and see where that gets us. The truck was unable to stay cool at anything over 50% load (that we were monitoring with a plug in diagnostic tool). I have done quite a bit of towing, but this is certainly the largest so I am open to discussions on that. On the diesel forums, everyone swears this load would be no problem what-so-ever and that everyone over there tows this kind of load at 80mph up the Rockies.

 

yea something sounds off, I would look at upgrading the radiator perhaps. another good thing to do it upgrade or install a tranny cooler, that was something I did for my diesel. Also, I'd invest in some A pillar gauges to keep good EGT, Tranny and Boost readings. Intake and 3" exhaust will help too.