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I don't know a way to see if your hitting your targets with out an afr wb sensor, the innovate 3877 LC2 kit is $152 and works with uprev,
the max bfs is a new bfs based on new injector size, so new injector size - old injector size/new injector size
example 1000 - 330 = 0.67
0.67 x 17.01 = 11.3 new bfs should be at the starting point of 11.3
17.01 is the highest bfs on your afr target map
seems like you spent some money for this project and if I'm reading it right your hp is at 334
if I had to guess id say your spark timing is way off,
Okay, so I'm going to order the innovate kit you mentioned. Can I get by with one sensor? If so, where on the exhaust should I install the bung? If not, will the kit support adding another o2 sensor or do I need to order another complete kit?
Here's what I'm thinking about getting:
Gauge: Innovate Motorsports 3892 PSB-1 Boost/Wideband Oxygen Gauge Kit
Wideband: Innovate Motorsports (3877) LC-2 Digital Wideband Lambda Controller Kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 O2 Sensor
I'm on a Zeitronix ZT-4, they have to be pre-cat if you have one, but not too close to the engine there is a certain degree to them as well. A lot of HFC and TP have brings in them already. I'd recommend dual but a single is absolutely better than not having one at all.
I'm running test pipes so I'm going to install a single wideband sensor where the y pipe comes together. That way I can use the single innovate gauge for both boost and AFR.
The data point you're referencing is after the 3rd gear run when I am completely off the throttle. I wouldn't be in boost because the bypass valve would be open. And, yes, I'm completely sure that I didn't tune the car myself
don't think you get what im saying, doesn't matter if the car is in neural, park, first gear, engine turned off, your afr target map is all wrong, its not tuned properly, I have never seen a afr target at 30, and 14.7 at 4950 rpm,
here is my base tune afr target, at 6.36 ms im out of vacuum into boost, your not when you should be, its at 14.7 and 30
The car does turn the injectors off on coasting down, so a target AFR being very high on closed throttle but high rpms is normal. That fuel schedule table is not for all the time, it will be referenced at full throttle though.
Also, to the OP, get a boost gauge on there asap. I can't see how the power is so low if everything else is correct.
Last edited by Italianjoe1; 07-04-2021 at 11:00 AM.
he's starting boost at 6.9 ms and still in closed loop,
Sounds like it's not going into power enrichment, I never tuned an Uprev car though, only with Cobb, and the access is so limited you wouldn't be able to run boost on it. I agree the tune has to be way off though.
hes not running widebands so there's no way to look at the logs and see if its to rich or to lean, says the tuner put a wb in the tail pipe to tune, the maf is registering 129 g/s at its highest point, he dyno'd at 334 horsepower on a supposedly FI, so either its running way to lean and the spark timing is way off,
The car does turn the injectors off on coasting down, so a target AFR being very high on closed throttle but high rpms is normal. That fuel schedule table is not for all the time, it will be referenced at full throttle though.
Also, to the OP, get a boost gauge on there asap. I can't see how the power is so low if everything else is correct.
I'm already installing the gauge. I'll post the results as soon as I can.
if you can log af correction bank 1 and 2, and afr target, maf voltage, maf g/s, air fuel ratio bank 1, 2, base fuel schedule, calculated load value, af Wideband bank 1, 2, rpm, knock count and knock strength, timing,
The car does turn the injectors off on coasting down, so a target AFR being very high on closed throttle but high rpms is normal. That fuel schedule table is not for all the time, it will be referenced at full throttle though.
Also, to the OP, get a boost gauge on there asap. I can't see how the power is so low if everything else is correct.
And the grand total for peak boost is... 6.7psi (I wound it out in 3rd gear and hit the rev limiter)
So, what next? Now that I can measure peak boost and it appears to be low (albeit with the gauge laying on the floorboard because I'm waiting on the gauge mount) I'm thinking the first steps are:
1) Install a smaller belt and tighten the crap out of it to make sure the belt isn't slipping. (If this is the problem and all of the sudden my boost doubles (wishful thinking) do I run the risk of damaging my motor without a retune?
2) Check for any boost leaks. Any recommendation on the best way to do this? (Idle vacuum seems pretty stable: https://bit.ly/3jLYEJW)
3) Install the wideband sensor (need to weld a bung on the Y-pipe)
I assume the log would be the same as I haven't changed anything other than adding the boost sensor. I'm using the innovate boost/AFR sensor (afr isn't installed yet), would I be able to log boost with uprev if I connect the serial cable?
I am trying to figure out why you haven't taken it back to jotech
I plan on taking it back once I get the smaller belt and wideband hooked up. Otherwise, what's the point in taking it back if nothing has changed on the car since the tune?
07-01-2021, 07:02 AM
